Millenium Falcon Taco Build

I had a vibration in my rear that was fixed with 3* shims.

I used this to read up on driveshaft geometry http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml

Check your angles and adjust using shims, etc... as needed. Not every truck will have the same issues so my fix might not be your fix.

 

Thats awesome. Thank you.
I noticed my leafs are nearly flat when the truck is not jacked up and nothing in the bed.
Time for a new leaf pack?

 

Thanks again for the link, good read.
I found this youtube video with a great explanation:

https://youtu.be/wkfndHDiH1M

 

I too have no vibrations (at least driveshaft vibrations) because of 3* shims. It is becoming harder and harder to find 3* shims though. 2* and 4* are everywhere though. 3* seems to be the magic number. Remember you have a driveshaft with a double cardan joint (basic type of CV), it doesn't necessarily have the same required geometry of a solid driveline (one with only two u-joints), meaning "in the ballpark" on pinion angle is generally good enough to rid you of vibrations. But I would really consider having your driveshaft balanced now that you put it together without indexing it first.

 

I would have to agree with you for balancing the drive shaft.
I think I will end up removing the blocks from under the leafs, replacing the leaf packs, replacing the shocks and then I'll use the digital angle finder I have ordered to find out what angle shims I need and put them in.
Then I'll see about getting the drive shaft balanced.

Thank you for your input!

 

I found a link to some shims from 2* to 4* with .5* increments.

https://bilsteinlifts.com/shop/toyota-fj-cruiser/zinc-axle-degree-shims/

 

Wow good attention to detail man. I know that must be time consuming! Especially for something that adds no "cool" factor. Truck is looking good btw!

 

Thanks for reading through. It is pretty interesting when telling people how long I've been working on it and there is little to show visibly that a lot of time has been put into the truck. I've left the kool changes for later!

 

Yes. And get rid of those blocks. I vote OME leafs.

If you go OME, they relocate your axel up an inch and your rear tries might rub the front tire wall. 4Crawler makes custom axel shims and relocation plates; if you do OME leafs, first install the leafs and measure the difference in axel position. Also measure the pinion angle and call 4crawler to order a custom one piece shim/relocation plate.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml

 

Awesome thanks.
I was going to wait until I sort the suspension out before shimming as that obviously changes geometry.
I only have 235/75/15 on the truck, do you think the tires would still rub?
Also, if the OME leafs raise the axle how should I handle the front Suspension, I have longer bilstien struts and springs that raise the front to match the back.

 

Another interesting video of what shims accomplish:

http://youtu.be/Tzk0gddQJAw

 

I did this same thing on my 04 dbl cab. Started with the OME leaf pack, then added the AAL + the relocation plates from 4crawler. Before the AAL and relo plates, my rear tires would rub (285s). That fixed the issue!

 

Couldn't say. My 285 65 r16's don't rub but it's damn close. I think with brand new tires and full tread they would rub. I could use a relocation plate but I hate f-ing with the rear suspension so Im kicking that can down the road.

The OEM leafs push the axle forward so you need a plate that relocates the axel ~1" to the rear. I helped a local member do his install and he just went ahead and got a 3* 1" relocation plate from 4Crawler and installed it all on the first go round. Probably not the best way to do it; probably better to do the suspension and then measure what you need but it worked out in the end for him.

 

i have the 3 inch adjustable bilstein 5100's all the way around, with a AAL. I have no rubbing. I did however do the pinch weld "mod", and I have pretty much stuffed all 4 corners, with very little rubbing.


Edit: Really like this thread. It covers some topics that aren't covered in most build threads. IE: Restoration instead of mods, or parts.

I have found myself in the middle of tearing out the interior and stopping, because I didn't want to screw something up, and break a part, because I wasn't sure how it came out...so this has helped being able to see some things torn apart. Thanks.

 

Hey Roll Tide,
Thanks for your comments, very much appreciated. I'm really glad I could unknowingly be of help!
I'm happy to answer any questions you or anyone else may have.

 

So thanks to Speedytech7 I'm doing the steering rack guide bearing replacement/update.
A before picture.
I picked up a vibtage toyota cap today.

 

What am I up to now?

 

I just fapped so hard to your build thread.

Great work man! In about 15 years when my kid is ready to start driving, I plan on doing this with him. Probably not nearly as in depth, but enough that he will respect his vehicle because of the work that was involved.

 

The member on Yotatech who's walkthrough I am following used a different approach but this what I had availible.
Just made a tool as I didn't have a hex socket large enough to use to install the new plug back in the steering rack.

 

I'm at a loss for words!