Millenium Falcon Taco Build

I think it would help if you completely removed your interior again, and documented every bolt and fastener.

 

lol
I like the way you think.

 

I had my Windshield replaced this evening.
My brother in law works for speedy auto glass so he hooked me up!
Not super exciting but some of you may enjoy the process so I thought I would document it.

Below are pictures of the various steps.
-Old windshield being prepped for removal
-Using a resip with a special attachment
-Old windshield out
-Rust in the top right is the cause of the crack
-Removing the rust
-After removing all the old adhesive an activator is applied
-Primer is applied
-Windshield prepped with moulding & activator
-Adhesive is applied in a V shape
-New windshield, spacers added at the bottom to align it until it cures, tape was also added along the top to help it stay put.

 

At first, I though the new windshield was cracked as well, due to the reflection of the ceiling lights...hahahaha

 

So believe I've been able to successfully diagnose and discover the cause of my vibration and clunking issues I have been having.
In my research I have found many tacoma owners describing various symptoms, issues and solutions.

It seems like front end vibration is a common issue that has been plaguing many 1st and 2nd get tacomas, the problem is the same in both generations and solution is similar as well.
It has been discussed here and there but I haven't found that anyone has really addressed it completely from beginning to end.
I am going to try and do so now to help anyone who may be having similar issues to try and point them in the right direction.

My Issues:
- Clunking in the front end on the drivers side that doesn't seem to have a pattern to it.
- Serious vibration in the front end when getting off of the throttle, it does resonate more at certain speeds but it was at almost any speed off of the throttle.
- Vibration in the front end while on the throttle at specific speeds.
- Majority of the vibration would disappear when 4WD was engaged.

What I've Replaced:
- Lower Ball Joints
- Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends
- Power Steering Rack Guide
- Drivers Side Axle

What I've Checked:
- All of the above
- Upper Ball Joints
- Sway Bar Links
- Steering Column Shafts, Joints and Knuckles
- Wheel Bearings
- Front Suspension
- All fasteners in the front end
- Front End Bushings

What the issue actually is in my case:
Needle bearing tolerance in the front differential is too loose and spider gear bore is not machined to canter the gear.

Video Explaining the issue:
(Although this video is describing issues in the '05+ Tacoma, it is the same issues in many toyota trucks.)
https://youtu.be/BOvoM5irtEc?list=PLaX0YktJvGQuk-Xge30aZX-EXwvlKNUVK

Solution:
Remove the toyota needle bearing and replace it with an oil impregnated bronze bushing.

Video of Installation of replacement busing and results :
(Although the first two videos are describing issues in the '05+ Tacoma, it is the same issues in many toyota trucks.)
Installation - https://youtu.be/WnA_R3gFf2s
Bench Results - https://youtu.be/lzdakZGs1Dg?list=PLaX0YktJvGQuk-Xge30aZX-EXwvlKNUVK
Another Installation - https://youtu.be/X8UijTh2Mwc

Where you can buy the parts and tools to resolve this issue:

Bushing, Seal and Tools for 86-02 4Runner, 96-04 Tacoma, 93-98 T100, 86-95 Pickup, 99-06 Tundra
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-1169297-toyota-clamshell-bushings-7-5-7-5-clamshell.html

Bushing, Seal and Tools for 2007+ FJ Cruiser, 2005-2015 Tacoma and 2003+ 4Runner
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-1169296-toyota-clamshell-bushings-8-clamshell.html

Bushing, Seal and Tools for 2007+ Tundra Front
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-1169298-toyota-clamshell-bushings-9-clamshell.html

 

Last night I pulled the rear brakes appart and soaked what needed soaking in oil.
The adjusted was seized in every way possible. I didn't have a torch to heat it up but with lots of Release-All (something like PB Blaster) and patience I was able to work the peices appart, clean it up, lube it and get it all back together.

Where the parking brake cable bolts to the bracket on the rear axle there are suppose to be two bushings that fill the space between the bracket and the bolt.
On my truck, they were missing.
I have ordered them from my source at Toyota.

 

Still continue to put out great posts. I get so excited to see what you've done each time I get a notification that someone has added something. Thanks for your efforts.

 

The parts I am refering to is 46304B

 

I appreciate the positive comments.
Nice to find happy people on here, in the 3rd gen and 2nd gen threads I find lots of drama and flippant comments.
Don't get me wrong, I love to bug tease and annoy people as well, but after a certain point it's rude and stupid.

I digest.

 

Had the truck in for a leaky tire.
Found this.

The aluminum nail, not my leg.

 

How's everything going with the truck? I am going to need a new windshield as well, got so many chips in my line of sight. Hopefully your clunking has been remedied.

 

Hello Speedytech7,
Not much going on with the truck.
Clunking is still there but I know what I need to do. I will order the needed parts from ECGS and do a write up of the swap.

I needed to put my suspension order on hold for unforeseen reasons. I'm looking forward to having the suspension replaced as it does ride like a wooden wagon.

 

I have ordered the East Coast Gear Supply Bushing to replace my drivers side CV axle needle bearing.
I've also ordered the removal tool and a seal and race driver set to install the bushing and seal.

 

Nice, let us know how it works. I may need this as I have recently developed another clunk in my front end, but it's been cold and I haven't found the motivation to chase it down yet.

 

So....I had finished up my last service call for the day yesterday and I went out to start my truck to head home and all I got was a single "click". I thought I may have forgotten the headlights on or something.
The rest of the truck was not acting like the battery was low or dead.
I got my friend to come give me a boost (in the pouring rain) and at first no change, still click, I figured the cables are not making good contact with the battery terminals so we adjusted them and the truck started. Great.
Get home after a 15 min drive, shut the truck off. I immediately try to start it again, no go, same single click.
In my research last night is seems that is the sign of a bad starter solenoid. I ordered up a Solenoid repair kit which included the metal plunger and two contacts.
I went out this morning to try and see if letting the truck sit inside may have let the starter dry our or whatever but exact same issue, single click.

I also found a good walkthrough of how to do the repair on youtube.

https://youtu.be/AEa1o5SNcSA

 

May have jumped the gun on that conclusion.
After actually taking some time to troubleshoot and take some measurements it turns out bad battery.
Replaced the battery, all ok.
Coming up, waiting on parts from ECGS to do the front diff cv bushing replacement
Also planning on replacing the rear differential pinion seal as soon as I get some replacement bolts, nuts and spacers that hold the propellor shaft to the pinion. Looks like a previous owner tried to remove them and stripped all 4 nuts and bolts. Yikes.

 

For future reference, taking the starter out is easy. Just have to remove the rearward bolt on the engine mount for some clearance. But glad you got it figured out.

 

Really appreciate that tip. I'll file that away.

 

And yet another update. The battery may not have been the issue....
I had the exact problem again today lol
I tried all sorts of things including boosting, still nothing.
This time I had my multimeter on hand from the start and the battery voltage was good the whole time.
Turns out one of the battery terminal connectors that the truck came with was not factory, it was tight on the battery post but the bolts that fasten the cables to the terminal connector was loose so it wasn't making a tight connection, it had enough current to click the solenoid but not enough current to crank the starter over. Lesson learned.
And the reason boosting it was working was that when I clamped the cables to the battery I was grabbing the large starter cable on the battery terminal and getting a good connection from the boosted vehicle to the started directly.
I'm suppose to know what I'm doing but sometimes I surprise myself with my fails.
A picture of the style battery terminal connector that is on on of the posts, I'm going to change it as I hate it.

 

At the shop today looking to improve the look of the front bumper.
I pulled it all apart, lots of hardware to replace!
Looking to prep the black bottom plastic piece and spray it black, clean up the chrome middle piece and spray it black and then clean up and prep the body colour top piece and spray it the same color as the fenders.