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mini subs

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by happyb, Feb 24, 2010.

  1. Feb 25, 2010 at 4:46 PM
    #21
    adhumston

    adhumston Well-Known Member

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  2. Feb 25, 2010 at 6:51 PM
    #22
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    ^I'd advise against those new Dayton shallow subs. They model like crap in enclosure programs. I've run the numbers on the 12 and it looks bad. Modeling isn't 100% of the real story but it's damn close. I'd test one out first before you plan a whole system around it.
     
  3. Feb 25, 2010 at 7:41 PM
    #23
    sachou

    sachou Well-Known Member

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    ItalynStylion, I'm really liking your under-seat setup. I sold the giant 12" bandpass box buckled into the back seat of my access cab and am only running 4 6.5's through a JL 300/4 right now...and I'm missing the bass.

    I'm thinking of either replacing the back speakers, sealing it somehow, and putting two 6.5" subs in. OR I'll make a custom fiberglass enclosure under the compartments under the back seat.

    I've been kind of skeptical about tiny subs...but if they worked for you multiple times I'll go for it.

    What do you think's the cheapest way to go about it while sounding good?
     
  4. Feb 25, 2010 at 8:55 PM
    #24
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    It would be cool to have 4 of them ported; maybe try that?

    ...it's been my dream for a long time....sigh
     
  5. Feb 25, 2010 at 9:03 PM
    #25
    jtav2002

    jtav2002 Kenny Fuckin Powers

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    Josh
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    I have one 8" in my truck. Good enough for me.
     
  6. Feb 25, 2010 at 11:13 PM
    #26
    sachou

    sachou Well-Known Member

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    I had an 8" in my own mdf sealed box in my corolla wagon putting out almost 100 watts rms...and that was good enough for me, too.

    I figure with a small access cab compared to the wagon a 6.5" would do fine.

    What do you guys think of the Kicker CVT8-4? It's only $55 refurb and puts out 150 rms.
     
  7. Feb 25, 2010 at 11:55 PM
    #27
    montgomery_30824

    montgomery_30824 Well-Known Member

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    Lee
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    K & N airfilter, custom built 10" sub boxes, pioneer head, mag-lite mod, Blue LED dash lights, custom painted engine cover, mud flap removal mod, alarm/remote start installed,
     
  8. Feb 26, 2010 at 7:48 AM
    #28
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I'm actually working on that. I think I can route it differently so it goes under the amp possibly. I'm not that worried about it overheating but it will help make the mounting surface more even too.
     
  9. Feb 26, 2010 at 9:13 AM
    #29
    07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah SHHHH, this is interesting

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    doing the same thing to mine but it's an access cab. I will be using the E.D. 6.5" subs. I am not sure if I will be using 4 though, if I do I need an 800w amp, and the most I have seen don't look as if they will fit under either of the seats. So I may have to go with 600w instead :(

    Also how did you get the box to stay? Did you use drill tap screws? When I was looking at my storage bin, they have those plastic pin things they use almost all over the truck (panels and such).
     
  10. Feb 26, 2010 at 9:25 AM
    #30
    VooDoo

    VooDoo More Cowbell!

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    Carter Ivey
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    dangggg italyn!! that set up is sick!!! how much did that run you??
     
  11. Feb 26, 2010 at 9:32 AM
    #31
    07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah SHHHH, this is interesting

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    those TB's alone are around $45/50 ea. and that's not including shipping.
     
  12. Feb 26, 2010 at 9:55 AM
    #32
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    Try a JL HD 750/1 or a PDX 600.1 that should be plenty of power in a small package. The Alpine will undoubtedly be cheaper and should still give you plenty of power.

    I used some plastic wall anchors in holes that I drilled along the rear edge. I hammered those into the holes to seat them and then I put the bolt in there.
     
  13. Feb 26, 2010 at 9:57 AM
    #33
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I have a wholesale account with PE so they were a touch cheaper but not much. The subs were the most expensive part of it. The other was the time I spent making it which arguably could have cost significantly more. If I were to do it again it wouldn't take nearly as long since I now know what worked and I don't have to go through trial and error again.
     
  14. Feb 26, 2010 at 10:58 AM
    #34
    07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah SHHHH, this is interesting

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    Engine bay: aFe Pro Dry filter Secondary air filter deleted Sokie Tech hood damper kit OReiley battery terminals Big 3 upgrade (0g wiring) 2012 Headlight swap HID kit (headlight 6k/fog light 3k) Sylvania Zevo LED turn signals w/hyper flash resistors Rear back up light GY6 bulb Bullz Audio 0g wire Exterior: Dynamik Retro Projector style headlight housing Depo Euro Black Altezza LED tails 2012 front grill/bumper cover w/ fog light and hood swap Rear bumper swap (to chrome, painted w/bedliner paint) 99 Cents Store tailgate lock Suspension: XR Bilsteins Universal Air Suspension strut bag Custom UCA's DJM 4" rear drop kit 1" spindle spacer kit 4x4 leaf pack swap (middle leaf removed) Air Lift rear helper springs 4 Siria (Asco) 3/8" air valves 3 gallon air tank 1/4' air lines 90's Acura Integra door switches to air valves ViAir 450 air compressor Rims: 18x10 Work VS-KF front w/5" lip 18x11 Work VS-KF rear w/6" lip 225/40/18 tires all around Sick Speed 3 piece spike lug nuts Pepboys valve stem caps 1" wheel spacers all around Interior: Wink Mirror rear view Center console lid fabric Metra Dash kit Kenwood bluetooth headunit Hifonics Zeus ZXi 6410 PB 6 1/2" component speakers up front 10" single Hifonics subwoofer 10" sealed angled box Katana shift knob
    lol, my friend told me to do that a while ago (he has NO experience with cars, he's more off a carpenter). cool, I decided to do a four 6.5" but with the E.D.'s. Hopefully I don't have to do trial and error like you had to go through. :(

    Good lookin out though :D
     

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