Misfire! P0306 - dropped valve seat!

What AFR should he aim for in boost across the rev range to keep from washing cylinders?

He’s gotta know how to avoid this again…

 

Just cleaned pcv valve and noticed It does not completely seal when check valve is closed. Also, I was running to cold of a spark plug - originally the part number for the ngk iridiums spark plugs on the supercharger tips and tricks thread was wrong (now updated). Going over everything with a fine toothed comb.

What kind of valve spring tool should I get to remove these valve springs?

 

I was going to ask about the PVC valve. Are you running a catch can? The cheap ones work just fine. Just get one with the brass filter.

IIRC on the 1GR cylinder 6 is the cylinder that gets all the gunk from a failed PVC valve.

 

$18 ATP Solid Valve Spring Compressor C Clamp Service Kit

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Solid-Sp...t=&hvlocphy=9005202&hvtargid=pla-450597330451
keep it simple. you're pulling the heads after all so this will work

 

Yes, running a catch can. When pcv valve is shut should it be 100% closed? I sprayed and cleaned the pcv valve and when blowing through in closed position air seeps through lightly.

 

I agree with @ROAD DOG Seeing that there is carbon build up in all 6 makes me think to check out that Ucon tune above anything else. My guess is that’s the source of the problem. Everything else was byproduct built up over time.

The 7th injector controlled by the Ucon is tuned to kick in at 30% pedal acceleration not WOT.

 

Yeah, I’m fairly confident it should be sealed up.

That may have nothing to do with your issue though.

I would send pictures to Gadget at URD.

 

10-4, just sent URD a message.

 

this is tedious

daily driving botttom line CONCLUSION

1st & FOREMOST he doesnt need a SC ..........................He doesnt Need a 7th Injector

that engine is CRAPPED so a myriad of band aide fixes is lookin at CRAP roll downhill

a Catch Can DID NOT break that valve seat

a 7th Injector DID NOT break that valve seat

those heads look like they were dunk in a CESS Pool

the bottom end CAN NOT be in fine shape......good fetal & order

so runnin an engine on a Corrupted Engine program has NO future

he can fix the metal only to be in SAME scenario again ....................

dog chasin his tail

 

Just cleaned my PVC a few weeks ago. Not saying this is right or wrong, but doesnt look it would be a 100% tight seal to me (granted its upside down in that pic). 90k miles on it

 

Sounded like what happened to me. Floated a valve and keepers came off and bent valve. But valve seat is uncommon. I’ve actually had it happen on a tundra 5.7. Only time I’ve ever seen or heard of it tho.

 

Found the pic

 

Will update shortly- Dam work and wild puppy duties in the way

 

That is so odd to see.

 

Impressive failure. I've seen these pop out on moto heads, usually after overheating.

Those combustion chambers are narsty, what's your AFRs in/out of boost?

 

Since my compression numbers were good for all the other cylinders I decided to go ahead and get some remanufactured heads sent to me without having to send my old heads back for cores. As of right now I have engine about 90% back together just waiting for some supercharger parts (intercooler foam seal and lid oring), once those arrive I just need to intstall radiator, belts, and refill coolant and oil and should be ready to start her up by the end of the week. 14 year old truck, we'll see how many more years I get out of it - it is now officially my project vehicle.
here's a pic of the top of the dropped valve - no damage to note up top.

Pic of new heads

 

Going to have a great sense of accomplishment when it is back up and running. Not long now.

 

Not wasting any time! Where'd you get the heads?

 

U need not run up but a few miles.........

then check both banks compression - cold (notate numbers ) leak down if necessary

 

I emailed 5 different companies with my situation and the only one that replied back and would work with me was Clearwater/Odessa Reman Cylinder Heads. Their comunication was prompt andthey also allowed me to keep my cores without forfeiting their 1 year warranty (plus it helped with shipping to Hawaii). Seems these heads are readily available. You can still get them new from Toyota for around $900 each. The reman heads don't come with the M6 studs for mounting valve cover, oil fill spout, rear coolant inlet housing etc... or vvti screens and plugs, and also you reuse your babbit bearing sleeve from your passenger side intake cam if it is still in good condition (mine was still clean and unscuffed).

Thanks ROAD DOG, difinitely will do this and will do another oil change shortly after that.

Some further good news - I was able to send an oil sample for analysis in to Blackstone Labs the next day after my valve incident, and got the email report today:

"ROD: Thanks for letting us know about the valve work and head rebuilds. You'll be glad to know we didn't find any other areas in need of repair work. Metals are very low, fitting for an oil with just 3,000 miles on it. The next sample will likely have excess metal and silicon from wear-in and sealers washing out, but then things should settle down in upcoming oil changes as wear-in has a chance to wash out. The viscosity was fine and we didn't uncover any harmful contamination from the likes of fuel, coolant, or excess dirt."

My plan is to post the first start up video this weekend.