Missing anything?

Just bit the bullet on the following:

5100's all around from DSMS.
Bach's, 2" AAL, diff drop and a spacer kit from Toytec.

Big question is am I missing anything? I know next to nothing about suspensions except what I have found on this forum. Some big tires are the next purchase but a lift is first. I am considering some STT 285/70/16's if they will fit my stock 2010 wheels, but like I said I have very little knowledge.

Thanks for your comments! After days of beating my head on what to purchase this is what I finalized on.

 

Sounds like you have it all covered except for an aligment.

 

Thanks for the reply ulySSes. As for tires I am going with some General Grabbers AT2 285/75/16's.

My only concern now is if I should jump on some UCA's now or later?

 

I have that set up minus the wheels/ tires, and I don't have UCA's. I got 2.6" of lift up front and 2.25" in back. Make sure you find a shop that does good alignments...if they say it's in spec, make sure you have a good look at what "spec" is as it's a very large area. First two I got were shit. Finally had Toyota do it (twice) and they got 1.9/ 2.08 caster, 0.5 camber, and 0.03/ 0.02 toe...finally rides nice, with almost no vibes.

 

Appreciate the heads up.

 

You will need wheel spacers if you are gonna stick with the stock wheels

 

I have the same setup as well and have ran the stock uca's for a while but have just purchased some LR uca's to get my caster perfect. Spidertrax wheel spacers are probably the best (they are what I ran when I had the stock wheels) and will cost you 200.00 for a set unless you find some used in the b/s/t section. Or you can get a new 16 or 17" set of wheels with 4.5" backspacing and be fine. Dont forget about a matching spare when you go to 285s and the stock bottle jack proly wont work after your lift.

 

Thats the info I was looking for. Do you still have to trim a bit or do the spacers avoid it all? I have my eye on some Sydertrax.

 

The spacers help your tires to clear the upper control arms...they do nothing to help with clearance issues of the actual wheel well. You will def have to remove the front mudflaps and will have to trim the black inner fender liner plastic in front of the tire...it juts downward. I also cut about 1.5" off the lowest edge of the painted fender flare in front AND behind the tire (I wasnt rubbing the fender flare, but wanted to make sure I never do) A spiral cutting bit on a dremel cuts the fender flare easy (just tape your line to keep the cut straight and avoid paint damage) The black plastic fender liner cuts easily with a razor knife (some guys just remove the fender liner altogether....more ?'s

 

Or a carrier bearing drop kit

 

Shims are usually better than the CB drop since they don't mess up the angle coming from the t case to the CB in order to somewhat fix the pinion angle.

 

Went with a 1/4".

Thanks for all the advice gentlemen. Purchasing some LRCA's, shims and Spyder's today as well. Spending just over 2K for this setup. Can't wait for it to get here.

Should i just get a CB drop kit also since they are only $10 and I 'might' need it? Hate to keep spending cash in shipping charges rather then get it all at once if you know what I mean.

 

toytec says to try the CB drop first, and if still vibes try the shims.
You will need longer U bolts if installing the shims,and that is another expense.

 

Yea, the $$$ never stops.lol

 

Alright so at this point I am going to avoid the Spydertrax and am opting for some Mickey Thompson SideBiter's 16x8's to accommodate the backspacing needs of 285/75/16 Grabber AT2.

I hope at this point I have everything I need...