modded factory intake

Oh man...love getting parts delivered to the house. I'm adding a very kool (and cheap) part to my intake! Can't wait to post pics when im done. Or maybe i should just keep this one to myself?? hmmmm

 

Oooh... I saw the TRD logo.


How did you find a part like that? I never knew velocity stacks for the stock air box even existed. Your enthusiasm, creativity, and resourcefulness is inspiring.

Greg

 

I'm curious where you got that 2.75" tube and elbow myself.

 

Just ordered my stuff from:

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?osCsid=c6713a9c6cf80dfe95dbd0dbd935e9ed

Received it today and it seems to be pretty nice quality.

 

^^ same place i got my 2.75" AL intake tube and silicone bend... quality stuff

 

That was much less complicated than I imagined. It makes sense, the fender hole is the same size with both engines.

http://www.toyotaracing.com/trd/par...rmance Engine&subcategories=Air Intake System

 

thanks man!.... but you're the dood that designed and produced and tested the tooter IM spacer!!! all i do is throw silly little parts together.

i found it while looking into the TRD supercharger kit for a buddy. Anything called an "intake flow accelerator" has my name all over it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

ya... I figured the hole in the fender has got to be the same for all tacomas.

I was ordering fender clips from tps.toyotaofdallas.com
and they have this part cheaper. and even cheaper yet, try their affiliate TRDparts4u.com

but my factory airbox neck that goes into the fender is SMALLER than the TRD intake box (and/or the factory V6 box).

the velocity stack is designed to REPLACE the stock rubber extender piece shown here



the neck on our 4cl airbox "without" the rubber extender is 3.75" OD and the velocity stack ID is 4.0. so just to button it up quickly and order more parts, I shoved the velocity stack OVER the rubber extender. I dont like this for several reasons and will change it later.

also, I want to consider the idea of cutting out the reduced section (taper down) where air enters the box. BUT it's a very slow and smooth transition - well designed - and i could possible lose velocity by removing it. so i need to think more about all this.

DISCLAIMER: I HAVE NO CLUE IF ANY OF THESE MODS TO THE FACTORY INTAKE DOES ANYTHING TO INCREASE PERFORMANCE. I NEVER DYNO TESTED ANY MODS SHOWN HERE. PLAY AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!

 

Here's my setup very similar to crawl's old setup. I just left the air switching valve pressure sensor resting on the valve cover since it just monitors the valve with a vacuum hose. My pipe is a little longer due to tooter's spacer and you can see how I connected the two small hoses to the pipe. I plan to get some better rubber grommets, but otherwise I just have to take the truck for a test drive and hope the intake stays together under torque. If everything works nicely, I'll probably paint the aluminum pipe magnetic or anthracite grey for that extra coolness.

 

The blob that the intake tube runs through that you guys eliminate, what is the purpose of it. Is it some type of expansion chamber similar to whats on a 2 stroke bike, or just for emissions?

 

^^all modern motors have these stupid little chambers and covers to suppress noise. I like noise on a motor The blob has no emissions or performance benefits, even though some people believe it helps smooth out the air flow...like a "tuned" intake. I dont buy into that theory because imo nothing matters until the air hits the TB and IM. Tube size and velocity are important though. I'm still working on that.

 

this looks really nice! i need to get those bitchen t-bolt clamps.

3" tube? and what degree elbow at the TB? 90*?
also, it looks like you used barb fittings into grommets... I just shoved (very tight fit) the front vacuum hose into the grommet. but I keep checking on it every other day to make sure it doesn't fall out. maybe i should put some bubble gum on it

 

UPDATE

After driving the truck to and from work today (~2hrs), I can safely say I lost all low end torque. Maybe it's the 3in piping, but 2nd gear definitely lugs between 1100rpm and 2000rpm where as before I could accelerate easily starting at 1100rpm. I don't know how the 2.75in piping does, but please do not use 3in. I re-installed the stock accordion and valve cover baffle for now as I'm gonna look into the foreign counterpart to that valve cover intake piece.

 

^^ya.. I started with my 3" modded box, then went back to stock, and just recently decided to try the 2.75" tube. I'm still not happy.

The reason I wanted to remove the stock piece in the first place was to have complete access to my spark plugs. Man... I wanna just throw some boost in this thing and call it a day.

 

You only have to change your plugs every 100k so I wouldn't worry about a few extra seconds removing intake pieces every time you do plugs. If you still really wanna mess with your intake, check out the Injen one that's for sale for around $225. Tooter has nothing but good things to say if you ask him about it. And yeah, boost would certainly be nice.

 

^^tooter's out of control and has a funny first name

I only have 23k on my motor but will be checking plugs soon. Reading plugs helps me understand whats going on with the motor. I think my 2.7L runs lean.. and thats probably why when we all try to add more air in or air out upgrades, it feels slower. Not enough fuel is being added to compensate for the extra air flow. A/F ratios are key in making power. I want to add an on-board wideband to my truck so I can start monitoring this. Plus on cold starts, the exhaust farts and gurgles sometimes.. thats not right and something funky is going on.

My Honda had platinum 100k mile plugs and they were toast at 20k. I drove the snot out of that stock motor.. very high RPMS and on hot days would do canyon runs for 20-30 minutes straight. I switched to a much cheaper non-platinum tip plug with a lower heat range - spent lots of time talking to the tech dept at NGK. Replaced the plugs often..$2 each. The condition of your plugs are based 100% on how hard you push the motor and its state of tune. I beat up ALL my cars.. drive them fast and hard. But I maintain them too. Can a worn out plug run a motor? Of course it can. But I want the highest level of performance ALL the time. For such an inexpensive product, changing to a fresh set of plugs is always a good thing. Just my experience.

 

And just for shits and giggles... here's the air in / air out mods I made for the Honda

 

3" intake tube and 3" exhaust tube. Oh... and a supercharger too. It's a little loud

 

So if I've read all this correctly Crawl, what's the difference between your 'homemade' intake and one from Ingen? And why did yours seems to lose torque down low but guys who have an Ingen don't seem to lose anything?

I'm asking because I'd love to make my own intake pipe but not for a loss of torque.