MOE'S BUILD

Haha just seen where you replied to that, I meant the tree pin striping

 

Sure does look good... Moab next year, eh?

 

Haha thanks for the bump. I need to post more often on what I've done to it.

That being said...

I just replaced the cat converters with magnaflow oem style and O2 sensors with denso's. Was supposed to be an easy switch which is why I bought direct fit, but that's never the case. Anyway, it's done and I feel some power has been restored and doesn't feel sluggish at takeoff. Hopefully my mpg will increase

 

Why change cat? Just for power?

 

Haha if i had every type of recovery gear available then maybe. It would befun to check out some of the lighter trails.

 

I've had the p0420 code for a long while. More recently I would clear it with my UG and then come back a couple days later. Before it would stay clear for months at a time. Also I had the cause diagnosed at 2 different shops and they said my bad O2 sensors caused my cats to fail. All the while my mpg went from 16 to 14mpg and my truck was feeling really sluggish at takeoff and highway speeds. Now the sluggishness is gone. Hoping the gas mileage improves also.

 

Ah that makes sense! Replaced mine too recently but that's cuz it was stolen ha

 

Moe, I was looking at my readings for the o2 sensor and stuff. Can't really give you a good number, one of the sensor goes up as I put my foot in the gas and when I let out of the gas completely it goes to 0.00

What are the gauges you selected? That way I can make sure I am looking at the right numbers.

 

Thanks for checking Jay

When I was searching through the. UG to find the O2 sensor gauges I think this is what I read. "O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1". The other reads "bank 1 sensor 2".

I've read that the front (upstream) sensor should read close to a steady number under 1- volt. The rear (downstream) is the one that jumps around from .01 up to 1.0 volt.

I may have just said that in reverse order but I think it's correct. I haven't checked mine in a week or so, but all has been well so far, no check engine light as of yet. Don't want to jinx it

 

Replaced the rack bushings today. Steering is tighter and no more play in the steering rack.

Hardest part was putting everything back together. Since the bushings are brand new it was a tight fit for the driver side metal bushing to fit inside the rubber bushings. Also the toughest was the middle bushing. I had to drill out a little of the rubber inside the bushing so that the metal bushing would slide in. All in all took about 2.5 hrs

Glad it's done!

 

When I go out tomorrow I'll try to fix my gauges and let you know. Where did you get your bushings from? I've been thinking about getting mine from Wheelers.

Also, when I let off the gas my fancy little circle on my UG breaks. Does yours happen to do the same? I have no codes or anything

 

I ordered from wheelers also. I've had them in my truck for over 6 months and finally got around to it

Not sure what circle your talking about?

 

It's in the top right next to little heart beat thing. Haha

 

Sorry I just now saw this post. Those will work but I don't think they are the energy suspension ones. The ones I ordered were made by energy suspension and are supposed to last along time. Also, they are red in color, which is cool I think.

 

Well to update my build.... Lately I've been maintaining my truck because seems like truck problems have been building up and I've been putting them off. I did the cat converters and O2 sensors recently, along with the rack bushings. Then as of the last 2 weeks I was trying to diagnose a slightly rough idle and a "thwarting" sound.

After changing the fuel filter, coils, denso dual electrode copper plugs, denso wires, and cleaning the MAF again the same symptoms were still there. So I took it to a mechanic to have it diagnosed. They hooked a couple machines up to it and drove it around a couple times. After all that they said all the readings look good and there aren't any signs of a misfire, exhaust leak, or anything to cause what I was feeling/ hearing. At the same time I asked if they could remove a stripped nut on the thermostat housing so I could do the "jiggle valve" mod.

So I took it home that night and did the jiggle valve mod and I was very skeptical that it wouldn't do anything. Btw my engine temps were in the 204-210 range per my ultra guage. Anyway, after rotating the thermostat so the jiggle valve was now in the downward 6:00 position it changed everything! The engine temps are now a constant 190* and I feel some power has been restored, especially at takeoff. The other difference is that my idle has smoothed out and the thwarting sound has cleared up.

My guess would be that maybe these engines should be running in the 190* range and since my jiggle valve was in the wrong position my engine temps were 20 degrees higher than normal. After all the research I did on engine temps 208 is not anything out of the ordinary but maybe for these aluminum head toyota engines they need to be a little cooler.

Feels like I've been busy with the truck recently and have nothing to show for it, But it's a good feeling when I know my truck is running as it should.

 

Sub. I love these gold doublecabs!

 

Driver side inner tie rod done

Still have a grind/ vibe when going over 40mph and the vibes turn into shaking when on the highway. Hoping it's not wheel bearings!

 

Mine hovers at 194 all the time it only drops if I go downhill and off the skinny pedal. It rarely goes above 200 unless I'm going uphill for extended periods of time with ac on

 

New wheels on 11/14/2014
Level 8 Tracker Pro (15" x 8.5")