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More Cooling!!!

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by extremachn1, May 3, 2012.

  1. May 3, 2012 at 2:23 AM
    #1
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 [OP] I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    I brought this up a while back but I still need to find a fix for my cooling issues.

    Basically with my supercharger I am running hot on and off road down in AZ. I get that I will run hotter than normal during the summer in AZ but I currently run 70-75mph down the freeways and see my temp go from 181 degrees to 200-210 degrees. Then offroading I have see my temps run as high as 230 but normally sit 220-225. I am worried that this might be "to high," anyone have an opinion on this? With the supercharger I generate a ton more heat I am sure plus my radiator stack now has a 3rd core with the supercharger intercooler.

    Currently my fan shroud is broken and I need to fix it, that might be a small part of my cooling issue as since the bottom is busted out of it its not pulling air as efficiently. I am also looking at secondary ways to add cooling while offroading and towing. I have thought of adding 2 "pusher" style fans to the front of the radiator stack. Then I can put them on a thermostat style switch with a manual shut off when crossing streams and such. I dont want to go with just electrical cooling fans because I dont want to have a single point of failure when offroading.

    Another option is a differant radiator. Possibly a differant material, multi-core, etc.

    What are your guys opinions and thoughts.
     
  2. May 3, 2012 at 2:49 AM
    #2
    Lucario Runner

    Lucario Runner Resident SUV racer

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    You can get a lower temp thermostat. You can do this if URD sells it separately from its ucon or you can get a 160 degree one and machine your plastic housing to fit. Another option is get a full aluminum radiator, however it will have to be custom made as there is no option like that for the taco. Another option is get a air cooled engine oil cooler. Just some options.
     
  3. May 3, 2012 at 3:59 AM
    #3
    Ga tacoguy

    Ga tacoguy Well-Known Member

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    :) One of the easiest and more helpful things to do, is to change your stock radiator cap for one that can hold a higher pressure. Your stock cap has a rating of 1.1 Kg/cm2 or 16 psi, and if you change out the radiator cap to a 1.3 Kg/cm2 or a 19 psi cap you will see a cooling improvement.
    By raising your cap pressure 3 psi, it allows the radiator to raise the boiling point of your water, thereby lowering your temp by raising the ability of your radiator to handle heat. Good Luck.
     
  4. May 3, 2012 at 4:07 AM
    #4
    joneill03

    joneill03 Look away, I'm hideous!

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    Your best bet would be to unbolt that supercharger, put it in a box, and send it to someone in a colder climate...say like northern Virginia? :D

    Seriously though I would look into a thermostat that opens up at lower temps. Also have you looked into aftermarket electric fans? Maybe you could add an electric fan in front of the radiators to help cool the antifreeze.
    Edit: sorry I completely missed the part where you had thought about the electric fans already
     
  5. May 3, 2012 at 4:13 AM
    #5
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 [OP] I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    I am already running the TRD 18.5 psi radiator cap. I havent had it under heavy heat load since I put that on so I dont know how much of an effect it will have. http://www.trdsparks.com/displayparts.php?Mdl_dtl=730&Part_cat=1&parts_id=660

    Looks like I will have to contact Gadget to see if I can actually purchase that or if it needs the Ucon which I cant use.

    Both good options guys and ones that can be used together. I would think that in normal driving they wouldnt have much of an effect on the daily driving temp.
     
  6. May 3, 2012 at 4:16 AM
    #6
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 [OP] I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    Oh dont worry, the S/C gets its work out in ALL weather conditions. I live in AZ part time and WA part time and am always driving in between all times of the year so it gets plenty of high/low altitude, cold/hot weather, dry/rain/snow conditions. There isnt much my truck has not been subjected to as of yet...
     
  7. May 3, 2012 at 11:22 AM
    #7
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Ron Davis Radiators makes an all aluminum radiator. Definitely a high performance one. Be about $600.

    Koyo makes a factory replacement that is supposed to be a little better than factory, while costing a tad less than $200.

    If you cannot get the cooler T-stat from URD, there is a right up on www.xr-underground.com for a cooler T-stat install.

    I know for a fact that the T-stat mod that I did, will cool your running, and racing, temps down. Promise!

    Also, have you checked to make sure that the pump for your s/c coolant, is working properly?
     
  8. May 3, 2012 at 12:08 PM
    #8
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    First, I would pressure test your coolant system to make sure you're not burning coolant. SC can displace factory head gaskets.
    A lower opening temp thermostat will not solve your problem if what you need is more cooling capability. An add on transmission and engine oil cooler will help(on the cheap). A larger radiator, or dual electric fans with a shroud will work(on the $$$ side).
    Raising the pressure of the SAFETY DEVICE on your radiator(cap) will do nothing to address the efectiveness of your coolant system. It may allow your system to rupture.
    Make sure you know your engine and coolant system are sound before you start putting money into band-aids that will not solve an un-diagnosed problem. It will eventually bite you in the rear.
     
  9. May 3, 2012 at 12:11 PM
    #9
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    A remote located cooler, with its own fan, can be mounted anywhere you have room. It will be less effective and must be routed properly to avoid trail damage. Just another option, if you run out of room.
     
  10. May 3, 2012 at 3:49 PM
    #10
    wolftree

    wolftree Well-Known Member

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    This may sound stupid, but only if you have not already done it. Take an air hose and blow from the engine side of the radiator out towards the front. Fix or replace the fan shroud.
     
  11. May 3, 2012 at 6:10 PM
    #11
    grant99

    grant99 Well-Known Member

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    water wetter? or some other coolant additive, know quite a few friends that have had great success with them
     
  12. May 4, 2012 at 2:10 AM
    #12
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 [OP] I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    I already plan on replacing the fan shroud, I have a new one in hand. And using an air hose dosent move enough air to do any good. Plus then I have to stop the truck, turn it off, etc to do it unless I plumb up something to do it.. Not a feasible idea but thanks.
     
  13. May 4, 2012 at 2:12 AM
    #13
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 [OP] I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    Yea, I have thought of that. Problem is water wetter has no anti-freezing capabilities. I use/have used it in various motorcycle/race bikes over the years.
     
  14. May 4, 2012 at 2:28 AM
    #14
    wolftree

    wolftree Well-Known Member

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    extremachn1,

    The blowing backwards with an air hose through the radiator is to blow all of the dead bugs and dirt out of your radiator.
     
  15. May 4, 2012 at 5:45 AM
    #15
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    This^, and straighten the fins on the ac condenser. If there are many bent fins, it blocks airflow just as bad as dead bugs will.
     
  16. May 4, 2012 at 6:19 AM
    #16
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 [OP] I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    Radiator/ac condensor/intercooler are all clean, straight, and free of gunk. Thats not the issue guys. Its running boost in the heat. Not just stock trd boost, I have the underdrive pulley on it to. Because of where I am located at I am at the ragged edge of the cooling capacity. I constantly keep an eye in my cooling temp via my scan gauge. Also, I am not burning water so head gasket isnt an issue. I am not overheating, the needle never gets anywhere near the red, in fact has never moved from center. I just get paranoid watching the scan gauge. Like I said before. When hard rock crawling in the heat I have seen spike to 230 then come and sit between 220-225. The engine dosent seem to have a problem holding that temp so I am not sure that thats to far off normal in high heat heavy load situations.

    I like the idea of the 160 degree thermostat, I need to get a hold of gadget and see if they will sell it seperately and if it will work without any sort of tuner/reflash. I also have tough plans on doing some sort of dual pusher fan mod to the front of the radiator stack to see if that helps.

    Tors, the S/C is working properly from what I can tell. I tend to go with your advice over most since you have built and blown up more engines than anyone here so. LoL

    Maybe a combination of engine ice, lower thermostat, and pusher fans will bring me down to an acceptible point. Those 3 seem to be the easiest without getting into major mods of the cooling system.
     
  17. May 4, 2012 at 6:56 AM
    #17
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    If Gadget cannot get you a T-stat, which I really believe that he would find a way to get you one, then as a second option, I could make you one like I did in the write-up on XRU.

    Different extreme, but to give an example: When a drift racing friend wanted the mod done on his XR, we had some impressive results. First was that his needle stayed at a quarter of the way up the temp gauge. Second, while he was drifting, he did five back to back runs. All redlining, and his needle moved just under half way. Soon there after, it was back to quarter position.

    He also only ran distilled water with Redline brand Water-wetter. So that helped a little as well. He also has the URD upper 2.85 pulley.

    I have been curious to run the Engine Ice myself. That damn stuff is expensive though. Funny hearing me say that. Lol. I have heard that the Honda Blue coolant runs a couple degrees cooler than the Toyota brand pink. But, you have to completely flush your system prior to using that stuff.

    Talk with Gadget first. Then let us know on this thread. :thumbsup:
     
  18. May 30, 2012 at 9:23 AM
    #18
    extremachn1

    extremachn1 [OP] I am an asshole, deal with it!

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    Ok, Talked with Gadget and he dosent seem to think the thermostat will help in my situation of high temps for long periods. He recommended a pusher style set up. So I am getting a flex-a-lite 112 fan capable of pushing about 1100 cfm. I will mount it on top of my intercooler which will then push through the intercooler, AC condenser, and finally the radiator. It will be set up with a manual off for water crossings as well as a 2 speed operation, one speed at 60% when the AC is on and 100% speed when over a certain temp. I will probably set it for 200 or 210 degrees.

    We will see how that does, if I need to I will go with a 2nd fan, maybe downsize to a 10" or 8" dual eventually. We will see how this does. I will also replace the fan shroud when I get home too. I have it sitting in the garage already so I might as well. Also, looking at some pictures there seems to be a lot of bugs on my cores so I will give those a good cleaning as well. Hope fully between the cleaning, the shroud, and the pusher fan it will get my temp under control.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-112/
     
  19. Jun 1, 2012 at 2:40 PM
    #19
    03f5sp

    03f5sp Well-Known Member

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    It doesn't lower the boiling point, it raises the point at which the stock cap would start spewing fluid. If he's not having boil over issue, a higher psi tad cap will do nothing.
     
  20. Jun 1, 2012 at 3:08 PM
    #20
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    What about a mesh grille instead of the stock plastic cross member. Another option would be a hood that dissipates heat more efficiently (not a TRD Sport hood with a scoop but something with more holes, I believe there is a fiberglass hood available with more vents in the hood).
     
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