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More steering rack issues

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by amals, Aug 19, 2017.

  1. Aug 19, 2017 at 11:12 AM
    #1
    amals

    amals [OP] Active Member

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    1996 Xtra-cab LE 2.7L 4 cyl. 4WD 5MT
    Hello, all--

    '96 Tacoma Extra Cab 4x4, 160,000 miles. Problems started with failed inspection; loose ITR end. Diagnosis proved to be wrong; it was movement in steering rack where rack shaft enters/leaves rack housing. All symptoms pointed to older roller rack guide as detailed in this forum in several places. Got new parts yesterday, all set to do quick repair as I had already removed old guide and cleaned up. Shaft seems to be in very good condition. So far, so good. Decided to check under boot on passenger side, just to verify its condition. There had been no leaks evident anywhere on rack housing.

    Bummer. Boot has nice collection of fluid. Can't see any leaking from seal, but it must have. Perhaps a little for a long time?? Don't know; just bought this truck.

    Truck is on jack stands, boots are backed off both sides. Pressure equalizing holes in rack shaft are unobstructed, and clear (I think). I moved the wheels back and forth to check to see if I could detect leak in the offending seal, and soon noticed fluid dripping from center forward of engine compartment. WTF?? Yes, fluid was being forced out of reservoir up top. Ok, obviously there is something about this setup I don't understand. Why is pressure from turning wheels back and forth backing up to the reservoir in the engine compartment? Why hasn't it happened all week when I've been fooling around with this whole assembly? Does it have anything to do with the boots being off both ends of rack? Could I have been forcing fluid out the passenger side (with boot still in place) all week and not known it?

    Trying to decide what to do next. I was certain that the new rack guide was going to solve my problem and get me past inspection and on the road. If there is a simple solution to the problem I've outlined, I might still do it and use some ATF thickener fluid to prolong the inevitable rack rebuild or replacement. Thoughts, anyone?

    TIA.
     
  2. Aug 22, 2017 at 9:19 AM
    #2
    Greensystemsgo

    Greensystemsgo 1 owner with clean car fox.

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    Have you checked your fluid level in the reservoir?

    Boots being off do not matter.
     
  3. Aug 22, 2017 at 12:22 PM
    #3
    turbosr

    turbosr New Member

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    check if the fluid in the PS pump reservoir is foaming when running causing it to overflow, if it is you have a bad hose somewhere after the rack before the pump allowing air into the system
     
  4. Aug 22, 2017 at 4:42 PM
    #4
    amals

    amals [OP] Active Member

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    Did more online searching a couple of days ago. Found out it is a common condition for some vehicles to do what I described; overflow of reservoir when wheels are moved back and forth without engine running and therefore pump not operating. It seems that is what was happening because I have now installed new rack guide, cleaned up spillage, gone for test drives. All seems fine so far and no more leakage from passenger side seal, and levels of fluid in reservoir are constant (no air bubbles; that was not an issue because it was not happening when running). Will be keeping an eye on things, but it looks good for now. Thanks for your replies.
     
  5. Aug 22, 2017 at 5:26 PM
    #5
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    it sounds like you removed the old roller rack guide and replaced it with the new and improved replacement, correct. If so, easy job or ?
     
  6. Aug 22, 2017 at 5:35 PM
    #6
    Greensystemsgo

    Greensystemsgo 1 owner with clean car fox.

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    Very easy. Biggest thing is making sure it is properly torqued.
     
  7. Aug 23, 2017 at 6:49 PM
    #7
    amals

    amals [OP] Active Member

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    Glamisman... Correct. I replaced with new style guide. Yes, easy repair. There are threads everywhere about this. One good one is here, by RysiuM regarding his 95.5 Tacoma 4x4..Steering rack parts. Includes good video by Timmah! Sorry, I don't know how to link. Also good threads on Yotatech and ttora.com forum. Greensystemgo is right that the hardest part is getting the torque right, but even that is not so tough, or I just got lucky. Manual spec says 18 ft. lbs. then back off 19 degrees, but one of the threads I'm referencing suggested to just snug down the cap nut, then back off about a quarter turn. I tried that and it seemed fine my first try. One of the other threads suggested some plumber's pipe dope on the treads rather than blue locktite. I think that's what I am going to use. Anyway, not a tough job if you've done any wrenching before.
     

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