Morimoto D2S retrofit with Apollo Shrouds (lots of really big pics)

So this is a correct setup, right? No extended wire necessary?



Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (D2S)

• CCFL Angel Eyes: No thanks
• Projectors: LHD (North American Standard)
• Bulbs: New Philips 85122+ D2S
• Ballasts: Morimoto 3Five (35w)
• Wire Harness: H4 Bi-xenon
• Shrouds: Apollo

 

Sorry dude, haven't been to the boards in a while. I actually cut the rubber washer down so that I could get more threads in. It was annoying to do but I used an exacto knife with a sharp blade and it worked well.

On the shrouds, I just trimmed wherever it would hit the reflector bowl. I tested the shroud around the projector and looked for the reflections to touch, and that's where the shroud was hitting the reflector, marked it then sanded with a roto-zip.

I'm sure you wont need this advice now but maybe it will help someone later

 

Yep that's correct.

 

Make it look so easy.

 

I really like this setup and the pics and "how to" are excellent. Thanks OP! I'm going to try this when I get some funds.

 

Another question. When it comes time to adjusting them, how is that accomplished? I didnt see any adjustment on them. Is it just the stock up/down and left/right adjustment screws that are used?
Btw, Is there an "UP" or similar type of marking/label to tell me how they go in initially? (I'm just thinking this install through in my head first before anything)

 

Yes, the stock adjustments do up and down, left and right. There is no "Up" marking, but put the relay for the cutoff on the bottom, the projector inverts the image, putting the cutoff line on top.

Make sure you get them level before your seal them up, that's the only adjustment you can't make after you're done.

 

Cool, Thanks Mark! Any tips/tricks to having them level w/o reinstalling in the truck first? Or do they fit relatively level right off the bat? (sorry if this is a dumb question, but I dont have them in my hands yet to test fit anything)

 

I leveled them to the housings themselves and found that wasn't good enough. You should mount them back on the truck before you put lenses back on. Wire them up and use a carpenters level on the cutoff line against the garage wall. I was able to tweak a bit afterwards but still not totally satisfied. I'm the only one who notices, but I'm a perfectionist.

 

Got it. Thanks!!

 

Hey guys, I just did this retrofit this weekend. I can't seem to get the lights to stop vibrating. I mounted them both using the H4 adapter ring, without the rubber washers, aside from the big white one. I clamped them down pretty good, but when the truck is in Drive and I'm stopped, the lights vibrate slightly. Should I try clamping down the nuts further? what can prevent this?

 

I would recommend reinstalling the nuts with ALL the rubber washers provided and using a little loctite on the threads to insure they don't move from road vibrations. There is a reason TRS provides those washers. Just be careful you don't over tighten the nuts too much or they will split on you!!! Good luck and let us know how that works.

 

Yep, I would use the white washer to help with the vibrations.

You can trim it out like I did and you will be able to get more threads engaged. But yea, be careful with the nuts.

 

Yeah, that's what I told her too.

 

I figured someone would take the bait on that one!

 

How do you get the reflector bowl off the grey back of the headlight? im painting mine black and need to get it off right now?

 

NVM figured it out

 

how's my alignment for the cutoff?

pic is at ~50 feet away

 

That's nice! I've been adjusting mine for the past week and can not get it were I want it.

 

Looks good! About how mine is. Just make sure when you pull up to a car at a red light that the cutoff is below their side view mirrors.