Morimoto Elite HID System and LED Fogs for your '16+ Tacoma

Went off-roading last night with these bulbs and the trail ahead looked like an old school animation flick with all the jitters. My girlfriend was scared and nervous doing it at night, but it kept her entertained. Had to keep high beams (stock halogens) on to flood out the jitters at times because it got too difficult to see. I had switched back to the hard seals at this time.

Great light output TRS, but those jitters and bounce........ I'm thinking it's the tolerance on the gap (where the seal resides) of the mold itself for the lamp, being too tall/deep, compared to the stock halogens that have a metal base.

Maybe I'll try the 4500k set as the vietguy suggested.

 

Well shit. I want these HIDs. Morimoto is supposed to be one of the best. But I am bummed about the jitter problem. I know it will bother me to no end.

 

I have the updated grommets, but they bounce like crazy on bumps. It's gotten worse.

 

The last I heard TRS hasn't done anything about this issue and don't plan to. While they offered an oring, it didn't fix the issue. In the end they blamed our housings. I call bullshit because if it was the housing, then how is it my OEM bulb didn't jiggle?

I think it's their bulb because they have had similar jiggling issues on other car makes and models.

While I like the output, the jiggling really cheapens the experience for me. I'm to the point of trying to find a new bulb, or just yanking out the whole kit and putting the rigid fogs from the Tacoma Pro, and then adding a lightbar and ditch lights for the dark stuff.

 

I'll give it a go. Worse case I'll rip it out and throw in a different brand and see if it still happens. Sounds like they've got a pretty good return policy/customer service.

 

Is this a problem with the LED fogs as well? Or just the high/low beams?

 

Worst case, if I find another brand of bulb that fits, I'll change the connectors out from these and use a better lamp unit with a better o-ring/ seal. The rest of the components are decent and offer some of the better wiring that I've seen on lighting kits.

I used kensun stuff on my old truck and had no issues with it over a year of use. Not a single complaint and have more color options. Those kits don't have wiring setups quite as nice as the TRS stuff, but the end result of light jitters does make the TRS system less than desirable considering the price is doubled.

 

Led fogs are flawless

 

let me know if you switch to a new brand bulb, also will another brand bulb work with this TRS kit ?

**notice how this thread got all silence- chirp chirp chirp bounce bounce bounce

 

i would say. stay away . even with the "updated high density o rings'' still the same. i can see the bounce on bump roads. dont get me wrong its a not a pave princess. I've already lowered PSI in my tires to help (31 cold psi, heats up to about 35) its the o rings that are not tight, they are pretty flimsy compared the stock ones. the only thing that is different is the height.

the ballast and braided wires TRS kits are nice..... the bulbs shake/bounce over imperfect roads/ streets, going over railroad tracks, just afraid too much bounce its going to break the bulb and such if your off road

 

The bounce was extra bad with 12-15psi in the tires on the beach and dunes

 

So is there any consensus on what is the best headlight upgrade?

 

I got the 6500k and no bounce

 

I got the 35W as well. Looks like everyone is getting the 50W. Maybe there's a difference in that too? Like I said, worst case it'll get shipped right back if it's not in there securely.

 

Please post back with details if you've installed one of the newer sets with the revised O-Ring. I think there are quite a few people interested!

 

I would kill for another group buy on the morimoto h11 elite hid kit and Xb led fogs. 26% off sounds pretty awesome to me

 

Anyone who's installed got a few pics? Where are you mounting all this relay, ballast and igniter crap?

 

I'll post that too... assuming I keep them once installed...

 

for those who have the bulb shake issues, have you tried adding your own oring to take up the space?

 

The additional O ring will slip off upon tightening down since the profile is round. Anything elastic will expand and pop off for that matter actually if compressed without some kind of retention wall.
I've looked and tried it and have spare O rings in many sizes around, but it doesn't work!
They're specifically molded in a cup shape also.

Tonight, I took some E6000 adhesive and just glued 1/3 around the top portion of the lamp unit where it seats against the housing. Hopefully this will work as the durometer when cured, is much stiffer than those silly "high density" seals in their "upgraded" options.

The adhesive is not as permanent as you think. The stuff pulls off with some force and the bulb will be removable. I'll have to try it tomorrow night on the drive home from work. It's the best solution at the moment for me. Bulbs don't need replacing all the time anyways and it's a long term band-aid fix.

Will report back tomorrow on this method.