Sand in the tank, headlights, or electrical issues, the saga continues for the 4th time? (10/9/18)

Not for a minute bro, my schedule is pretty packed until december, but the wife wants to go back soon so Ill let ya know!

 

After reading all 44 pages of "Holyshit"happenings I will not be installing any LED lighting in my truck......

 

Need good areas to put the ballasts... My power tools are broke (batts fried) so no drill right now....

Oh and my new leds came in

 

Since we don't have widespread complaints about trucks failing from this lighting upgrade, I think we can postulate that your set is bad. I would have them replaced and try the new ones. I would guess they will be fine.

You are essentially trying to apply design upgrade (protected location for ballasts) to a manufacturing problem (failure point somewhere in the system that is affected by moisture).

You need and deserve an entirely new setup. If they won't provide it, let me talk to them.

 

Well they sent me H11 LEDs... High beams are h9s...

They already told me they're not doing anything about the HIDs.

I reinstalled everything, I have the ballasts in a pretty protected area, all the ends have been siliconed and dielectric greased.

I sprayed it down with water and no issues.

Now to wait on the proper LEDs.

The old ones still work but with a melted wire I'm not down to put them back on.

 

I tucked the ballasts and igniters back behind that plastic, and with a hose test, since the fender is all sealed off by plastic, no water gets up to them from the tires, and if I wash the engine bay, they're out of the way. For the purpose of testing I shot back there in that space on purpose. Targeting every plug directly.


You can also see the XC LEDs (copper ones) and the new 2strokes. 2 strokes have metal couplings and are heavy. But have an internal fan, and in the past fans have failed on me. The XCs (discontinued) had a heat sink.

Being for high beam use, they'll never be in for long periods of time anyway.

 

I do think companies would have better output of they added a diode on the tip, projecting outwards. Obviously for high beam only lol

 

this company sounds like a piece of shit. I hope everyone who reads this passes along and people stop doing any business with them if they dont do anything about their product really after they sell it.
Also why are the H11 not working for high. Plenty of people in the Opt7 LED thread use H11 for all 3 setup. high,Low and fogs

 

Suppression diode in the relay control circuit.
It's placed between the stock wiring's switched(+) and one side of the relay coil
It manages back voltage and protects against emf.
I read up on the Morimotos; they have a diode.
If it got wet and bypassed...

 

Protection on the relay coil is typically to suppress the flyback from the coil field collapsing when you de-energize the coil. This would only happen as a single pulse when you turn off the lights.

In this case, it appears to be a constant source of noise. Possibly from the pulsed HID or LED power, but we don't know.

I do wonder about all the relays used in many electrical mods (off-road lights for instance). Do they have diodes or some other suppression for the relay coil? If not, that seems like a potentially vicious spike you are sending into the vehicle's electrical system. I've certainly seen relay coil spikes blow the tops off of electronic components ("I thought you put the diode in YOUR part to the circuit!"). Again, I don't think it's relevant to this situation unless the relay was rapidly switched on and off for some reason, and that seems unlikely.

 

The h11 base doesn't seem to fit into the h9 spot. It won't twist in

 

So. Someone else has had the same issues as me.
They have the TRS 2 stroke LEDs I just installed. It would appear as if the LEDs are the culprit, not the HIDs.

 

Booya. Hopefully a few more pop up and TRS will fix this

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dead-truck-after-1600-miles.453862/

 

Maybe the diode was wired into the harness backwards.

 

It's normally reversed biased so if it were backwards it would be a near-short on that circuit and something would melt (hopefully a fuse).

 

a wire melted inside the driver

 

So thus happened and my truck didn't explode. Guess i can finally do my retrofit thats been sitting around for 2 years