Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) step by step with pics!

Is the solenoid for switching between high and low supposed to be really loud? I just got mine in the truck so i can align them and switched em to make sure they work and was really suprised at how loud the clicking was.

 

I know mine make some noise, I never really paid too much attention to it. I wouldnt worry about it too much but if it bothers you I am sure matt at TRS could answer this a lot better than I could.

 

Just to clerify this is true for the mini gatling shroud but not the standard one which is much larger. it used a shroud centric ring that needs to be glued to the shroud and then again to the projector. I used that standard shroud in my retro.

 

I cut the inner piece of the shroud that look like tabs which fit into the centric ring. prolly has just over a quater inch left... I just fitted the centric ring and used a sharpie to draw an even line then cut it with a dremel. I had to repeat this process twice to get it to the height I wanted and checked fitment after the first cut, it sits in there with the perfect amount of room.

 

Can anyone tell me how the mini gattling shrounds attach to the H1 projectors? I've got them in my hands and I'm not seeing it...

 

Hey all, just a heads up...

Looks like TRS revised the Morimoto Mini's with the "5.0 Version".

I installed the original Mini's about a year ago, only to have to replace them with FXRs 6 months after my install. Due to the fact that I'm running 55 Watts on my rig, the Mini's lacked adequate surface area to dissipate the heat; the reflective coating inside the projector bowls melted/flaked off. TRS was really cool about refund/exchange, and acknowledged that it was a known issue...even have me a bitchin discount off of a set of FXRs...

Anyhow. I digress.

The Mini's were super easy to install, and provided excellent performance to price. But the cheap pot metal retaining ring for the bulb corroded and was fused to the projector housing. Had to get the cutting wheel on the Dremel out and cut the ring off the threads. Wasn't a big deal, since I was replacing the whole setup anyways.

Really feel like that cheesy bulb retainer setup really kills an awesome product. I had issues with the retainers loosening up on me, also.

Basically, what I'm trying to say is think about putting some kind of anti-seize on the threads when you assemble. Otherwise, you may be shit out of luck when it comes time to replace a bulb.

 

So you're saying you have to unscrew something just to change a bulb?!?!

You're correct about the version 5 on the H1 minis. V5 has a foreground limiter and supposedly a better solenoid (that might have been updated in one of the previous versions).

 

yeah just the final ring on the back, not the lock ring but the one that secures the bulb.

 

I suppose if I actually got to doing my retrofit instead of staring at the parts, this would all make sense, huh?

 

yes it would haha
there's two rings that screw on the back of the retrofit projector. The first one secures the projector to the headlights, and the second one secures the bulb into the projector. When you see it in person it will make a lot more sense.

 

Not sure about the Mini-H1, but the D2S set no longer uses the potmetal rings.
They are now aluminum.

 

Is there a way to test the ballasts? I'm pretty darn sure one went out on me

 

Double check your grounds on the harness. These things are touchy for a good ground.

Failing that, swap right and left and see if the problem follows.
If it doesn't follow the ballast, the swap the lamps.

 

It followed to the other side leading me to believe it is the ballast for sure. Is there anyway to electrical check it besides resistance?

 

Not really... there's a moderately complex circuit in there.
Premature failures happen... shoot a note to Andrew.

 

After about a year I am having issues with one of the solenoids after using the high beams the one projector changes the cut off line somehow to where it is way below the original spot... good news, it goes back up after going over several hard bumps.

Called TRS they said I need to adjust the tabs on the shield, wow f'ing great I get to do a whole nother tear down because I have hours of time to fix what should work without me modifying it!

 

Call me silly but I got my retrofit done and I'm not seeing what I have to unscrew to change out the bulbs... The bulbs are held in with a retainer clip, similar to the stock headlight unless I did something really wrong...

 

mine do that too sometimes, along with whenever i use my highbeams they always stick a little bit so it makes the cutoff line look yellow, but after driving for a few miles it normally goes back. I just dont use my high beams that much

 

What projectors did you use?

 

Morimoto Mini H1