Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) step by step with pics!

Ya, I see the different widths and have that aligned correctly. Might just take a bit more force than I was using, don't want to break anything.

I didn't get any screws though, so I'll have to go get those.

 

I am sure if you call TRS they would be more than willing to send you some, I dont know why they wouldn't come without screws, kinda weird. But unless you are in a rush I would just do that!

 

Could someone who has successfully wired the H1 kit take a picture of how they have everything connected? The only plug I has to assemble was the solenoid plug and I just did black to black, red to red. Everything else was pretty self explanatory I thought.

 

That's all there is to it.

Be sure you have a GOOD ground.
My passenger light wouldn't spark up. I unplugged the ballast from the harness and plugged in the spare connector, connected it to the headlight socket and it popped on.
Went back to the harness, still no-go.
Checked everything with my meter, seemed to be fine.
I moved the ground from the radiator support to the air pump, problem solved.

All of these adapter harnesses are made the same way... there's no reason the ballast ground shouldn't be run back through the harness to the relay box and provide one heavy gauge ground connection at the battery.
I've installed 5 HID systems and I've had issues with one light not firing up on 3 of the 5 because of the stupid grounding issues.


Stupid suggestion, but make sure you have the hi-lo connector connected to the solenoid and the power connector plugged into the ballast.
Both use the same connectors... the connector with the short wire and a fork on the end (labeled "BATTERY -") plugs into the ballast.
The connector with two smaller wires both running into the harness connect to the hi-lo pigtail.

 

I'm going to pull the whole wiring harness out tomorrow and start over. There's got to be something stupid that I'm missing with this kit. Very frustrating

 

What is (or isn't) happening?

Take it step by step... Connect the ballast directly to power to confirm that the ballasts and lamps are good.
Connect the harness to the battery and the headlight socket and meter the harness outputs to confirm that you are getting power to the ballast connectors.
Switch to high-beam, verify that you are getting power to the solenoid, and still getting power to the ballast connector.

High beams, the red wires on all 4 connectors should be hot.
Low beam, only two.

 

And again... double check all of your grounds, and don't trust any of them.
To confirm grounds, run a length of 14ga black from the passenger side to the body ground next to the battery, and connect all of the HID harness grounds to that instead of using the forks.

 

But the solenoid uses the same ground as the rest of the system since the control box is grounded right? The low beams work so the ballasts are work so I'm assuming my grounds are good. I've also gotten into the habit of using the same ground with my test light as the system is question is using and it seems to ground well. I'm going to tear it all down anyways and recheck everything with a fine tooth comb. I'm at wit's end with this kit

I'm grounded at that metal piece on top of the headlight, the one that goes across the width of the truck just in front of the radiator.

 

Okay, both low beams work so yet, the harness grounds are solid.

Do the low beams remain on when you switch to high beam, and you just don't get the barn door opening up?

Double check the connectors on the projectors. I had some trouble getting the pins to seat properly. After connecting everything up, I ran a thin rod into the back of the connector to make sure the pins were seated, as two of them pushed back out when plugged in... the "top" of the pin where it crimps to the wire was pushed up flush with the edge of the housing/rubber.

 

The harness relay ground, as well as the hi-lo solenoid ground, come from the original H4 socket. Only the ballasts need an external ground.

 

Well, here's the thing. Everything worked perfectly for 2 weeks, hi beams, low beams, everything. Then, I flipped the high beams and everything went black. I went back to low beams, and they fired back up. It blew the 10A hi beam fuse. I replaced the fuse, then for 2 weeks, the low beams worked fine, and when I switched to high beams, they would just stay on low beams. TRS thought it was the controller box since I had power in all the places you'd expect, just not going through the controller box to cycle the solenoid for the the high beams. They sent me a new controller box , I swapped them out, now, the low beams work, but whenever I flip the high beams on, everything goes black and it blows the high beam fuse.

I don't understand how they worked perfectly for 2 weeks, and now I can't chase my problem out. I'm resorting to a complete teardown and redo tomorrow. If that doesn't work, there will be halogens in the truck by the end of the weekend

 

Interesting.

Sounds almost like one of the solenoids has shorted.

Build yourself a "tickler"... a 5a circuit breaker with some clip leads, and see if you trip it when you apply power directly to the solenoids.

What happens if you just unplug the solenoids? Are you still blowing the high beam fuse then?
Internally, the low beam hot applies power to the ballast relay.
Switching to high beam, there is a delay circuit that momentarily holds the relay in while power switches over, so the high beam hot feeds exactly the same circuit in the relay box, but adds the connection to the solenoids.

It's a very simple system.

 

I'll try disconecting the solenoids and cycling the high beams tomorrow and see what happens. It's dark here now and raining, tomorrow is supposed to be nice and I want to tear the truck apart to run heated mirrors

Thanks for the help Rich, I'll post back with the results. I hope I can get this figured out!

 

Good luck Mr. Phelps!

 

Thanks!

 

Rich, do you know what colors on TRS's plug is supposed to receive what (ie, white is low beam power, blue is high beam power and black is ground, I made the colors up, just wondering if you knew).

 

I'll try to remember to check tomorrow.

 

Thanks, figure while I'm in there checking everything, might as well check that also.

 

I just checked my plugs, here's what I have:
Red wire - OEM high beam hot - Connects to TRS Red
Red w/ Yellow - OEM low beam hot - Connects to TRS White
White w/ Black - OEM ground - Connects to TRS Blue

 

Okay... here's what I've got.

I took the colors for the headlight socket from the passenger side, driver might be different for the low and high, but the relative positions on the socket are the same. High beam and ground are on opposite sides of the socket, low beam is in the "top" middle.
Ground is going to be a white or white/black tracer.

My TRS harness seems to have a brown wire on the ground.
It sounds like your Blue and Red/Brown are reversed... that's why I included the landings on the white connector that plugs into the relay box.