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Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) step by step with pics!

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by stattonmw, Feb 28, 2012.

  1. Dec 9, 2012 at 1:58 PM
    #121
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    I figured it out!! My driver's side solenoid is shorting. The TRS harness and wiring is fine and the passenger side works fine as long as the driver's side is unplugged. I will contact TRS tomorrow and see what they say but it looks like one way or another, the driver's side headlight is coming apart again. :(

    If I plug the solenoid into the battery, it wil cycle but it blows the 10A factory fuse. I guess I got lucky that something bad didn't happen when I plugged into the battery.

    Rich, thanks for your help. Based on your wiring diagram, the blue and red are backwards, weird. :confused:
     
  2. Jan 27, 2013 at 4:13 PM
    #122
    DPCardoza

    DPCardoza Well-Known Member

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    Next time someone is under the hood, can you look at what configuration your input wires are on the controller side? The controller instructions says you should switch the blue wire but it doesn't say with which other wire. I tried switching the blue and white ones and it didn't change anything but I don't want to test my luck and fry something by switching random wires.
     
  3. Jan 27, 2013 at 4:54 PM
    #123
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    On the currently shipping harness on the 2nd Gen Tacoma, the installation is plug and play.

    The wire swap is needed on 1st Gen because they use a ground-switched headlight system.
     
  4. Jan 27, 2013 at 7:11 PM
    #124
    DPCardoza

    DPCardoza Well-Known Member

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    The controller came with a piece of paper that said if you are having trouble with just the high beam, switch the blue and white wires on the input. That is why I was asking. I tried it and it didnt change anything.
     
  5. Jan 27, 2013 at 7:31 PM
    #125
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    That instruction sheet is a response to issues with the 1st Gen.

    Are you having a problem with your installation? Your reply seems to indicate that you have a problem with the highs but you haven't posted in this thread prior.

    As I posted a couple of messages up, here is how my harness is wired
    The colors on the light sockets are the Toyota colors. The colors that they change to are the colors in my harness.

    BUT... As Pugga mentioned, some of his harness colors are different, so go by the position on the connector that plugs into the gold controller box.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Jan 27, 2013 at 8:36 PM
    #126
    DPCardoza

    DPCardoza Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I'm having difficulty. No high beams, lights stay on just no high beams. I've checked fuses and connections are all fine. Before sealing them up i checked to see if they lit up but didnt think about checking the high beam function. Pugg said a frozen solenoid is common with the h1's but I've no idea how to figure that out.
     
  7. Jan 27, 2013 at 9:19 PM
    #127
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    With the headlights on (low beam), use the spare plug provided in the kit and use it to apply power to the high beam solenoid directly. That plug will fit both the ballast and the solenoid connector.

    If the solenoids don't respond to direct application of power, the problem is not in the harness.

    If the headlights are remaining on when you switch to high beam, it sounds like the harness is working properly. On the Toyota connector, on low beam, you have power on "low" and "GND". On high beam, power moves to "high" and the supply to "low" shuts off. That's why the control box is needed.
    If the headlight connector were not wired properly, the headlights would go out when you switch to high beam.

    Are both lights doing the same thing? Would seem odd for both solenoids to be stuck. Any flicker when switching to high beams?
     
  8. Jan 27, 2013 at 11:40 PM
    #128
    thebaker

    thebaker Well-Known Member

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    The only mod is a hole in my wallet!!!!!
    sub'd!!!
     
  9. Jan 28, 2013 at 5:20 AM
    #129
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    The frozen solenoid seems to be more common with the more recent purchases. TRS told me I was the 1st time they had come across a frozen solenoid but now more and more threads seem to be coming up with the same problem.

    FWIW, when my solenoid froze, the high beam fuse blew and then neither solenoid would cycle. I then tried each one individually hooked up to the harness (had the harness completely wired but unhooked the driver's side solenoid to try and isolate the problem). The passenger side cycled fine when I put on the high beams. Did the same thing with just the driver's side hooked up and boom, blown fuse. I left just the driver's side unplugged and need to replace the solenoid at some point.
     
  10. Jan 28, 2013 at 7:24 AM
    #130
    DPCardoza

    DPCardoza Well-Known Member

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    Yeah its both sides. In reading through this post I saw that maybe by unplugging the "projector" connection I could isolate the problem, but unplugging one or the other didn't do anything. I'll check the fuses again, and see what applying direct power does. How many Volts do the solenoids need to work? I'm trying to figure out what to power the test leads from.
     
  11. Jan 28, 2013 at 7:35 AM
    #131
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    The solenoids don't take much juice if they're operating correctly (well under 5A each). I don't know the exact number but a single 10A fuse supplies sufficient current to both solenoids under normal operation.
     
  12. Jan 28, 2013 at 8:16 AM
    #132
    DPCardoza

    DPCardoza Well-Known Member

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    Should the test link applying power to the solenoid be fused? I wouldn't think it matters but was just curious.
     
  13. Jan 28, 2013 at 8:19 AM
    #133
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    If testing because you suspect a frozen solenoid, it should be fused and here's why: When I was trying to trouble shoot mind, if I tested my solenoids by just touching them to the battery, they would cycle however who knows how much amperage it was taking to make it happen (obviously more than the 10A that the fuse would allow to pass). I know now that I was lucky something bad didn't happen, I thought I was just testing a part for function, not realizing it was only functioning because it was being overloaded.
     
  14. Jan 28, 2013 at 9:59 AM
    #134
    DPCardoza

    DPCardoza Well-Known Member

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    When I apply direct power to the projector wires with a 9V battery and a inline 10amp fuse everything works fine. So does that lend itself to mean a bad controller? I've checked and even replaced the high beam fuses for good measure.
     
  15. Jan 28, 2013 at 10:02 AM
    #135
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    It is leaning that way if everything cycles freely. Sounds like everything is hooked up properly then that leaves the controller box. Call TRS, see if they have any other advice or ways to trouble shoot.
     
  16. Jan 28, 2013 at 12:46 PM
    #136
    DPCardoza

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    called TRS, they said its likely a bad relay in the controller. They are gonna send me a new one and I'll send back this one. Thanks for all the help guys.
     
  17. Jan 28, 2013 at 7:18 PM
    #137
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    +1 for TRS.
    They're a great group of guys.
    You'll never get customer service like that out of DDM.
     
  18. Jan 28, 2013 at 11:29 PM
    #138
    ornithology

    ornithology Active Member

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    That's some great handy work there. Have you considered the FX-R's? Would you happen to know the difference?
     
  19. Jan 29, 2013 at 5:47 AM
    #139
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    The FX-R is a different animal when it comes to installation. The H1 and D2S projectors use an alignment tab and have a nut that secures the projector to the reflector bowl. The FX-R projector requires drilling into the reflector to secure the larger projector. The D2S or the H1 with upgraded bulbs and/or ballasts will compete with the FX-R as far as light output. Personally, I liked the H1s better, I think they're a little brighter than the D2S and throw a slightly wider pattern.
     
  20. Jan 29, 2013 at 11:36 AM
    #140
    DPCardoza

    DPCardoza Well-Known Member

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    I agree. They are stand up fellas.
     
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