MPG improvements?

nd4spdbh · Nov 30, 2022

Woofer2609 said: ↑

Big tires on these trucks, and in general, are like fake boobs; usually unneeded, expensive, and no better than the originals. If gas is $5 gallon, after 100000 miles, you'll have spent over $12 grand extra at 13.5mpg vs. 20mpg. 215 or 235/85 r16s are available in most tires, will get you anywhere you'd probably want to go, cost less in the firstplace, and arguably look just as good. It's probably just me, but i don't understand the whole macho truck thing. Heck, buy a set of P245/75r16s for 400 bucks on rims and use those when you're not rock crawling. Honestly, atrach 5 lb ankle weights to yourself and go jogging, and then take them off and feel the difference, thats effectively what you're doing to your truck. Which of course, is your truck, so do as you like.
Click to expand...

This. I went from 265/75R16 LT load range C AT tires (Cooper Discover AT3) at 47 Lbs a tire with most of its weight in tread depth (outer edge of the tire), to the same size 265/75R16 SL rated Michelin LTX M/S tires at 40lbs and noticed an INSTANT difference in how much easier the truck accelerated and decelerated... and thats only 7 lbs a tire and a tire that rolls easier.

And those "road" Michelin LTX M/S tires have gotten me everywhere I have wanted, and are WAAAAYYY better on icy / snowy roads than any AT tire.

My4thTacoma · Nov 30, 2022

Devo4x4[OP] initial post: ↑

Hey all. I’ve got an 06 Tacoma, 3” toytec lift on 33s (aired up to 35 btw). Engine is stock, I do have an MBRP exhaust tho. My MPGs are around 12.5-13.5 tank avg (highway/city mixed). Gonna say this before, I don’t drive aggressively, I keep RPMs under 2k as much as possible, use cruise on hwy. I’ve seen people on here claim 17+ mpgs in lifted 2nd gens, what sort of mods/maintenance/etc should I do to get there? thanks.
Click to expand...

wow, i didnt realize the larger tires would make THAT much of a difference!

My4thTacoma · Nov 30, 2022

pahaf said: ↑

I also noticed that every truck is different. Some get better mpg. Some get worse.

Im lifted 1.5-2” on 265-70-17 and get 15-16mpg. Meanwhile other people get 17mpg with the same set up. Im on top of all maintenance and have perfect alignment and perfect tire psi.

then there are people who run 33” tires. Some get 13mpg. Some get 16mpg.
Click to expand...

oh great. i plan on doing a 2/1 lift with the same size tires. im currently averaging 20-21 mpg so i guess once i get the lift and slightly larger than stock tires i will be around the same as you

TacoFergie · Nov 30, 2022

I don't get too hung up on MPG's unless they are really low and potentially indicating there is an issue. My 2015 DCLB has never gotten 20mpg, but I am lucky to have other cars so it's not my daily. It is used when I need to load something in the bed, go off road, when I need to tow, recover a stuck vehicle or if I just feel like driving it. I have an 01 Outback beater car thats worth more totaled out than I paid for it (the snow rig), 91 MR2 NA when it's nice out (24-27mpg 70/30 city highway with plenty of spirited driving) and my Victory motorcycle that gets 34-40mpg even though I twist throttle quite a bit. So the Taco has 60k and I bought it in mid 2016 with 21k. Yup, 39k in 6 yrs.

My driving consists of roughly 60/40 city/interstate. I have tracked my fuel since day 1 on Fuelly. No commutes on 55mph county highways. City driving is mostly light footed acceleration and keeping pace with surrounding traffic (usually 5 over). Interstate is usually 65, 70 or 75 mph depending on the interstate I am on. One driving habit that I know hurts my fuel economy is merging on the interstate because I make sure I am up to speed by the time I am merging, or at least the speed of traffic. That is probably my BIGGEST pet peeve when people merge at 40-45mph on an interstate that has 65mph+ speed limits, causes so many issues. UGGH! lol

Keep in mind when seeing my MPG ratings that I mostly use the Taco for truck thinks like stated above.
- 16-18mpg - Stock 17" TRD Sport wheels and tires.
- 14-17mpg - Installed 3rd gen TRD Off Road suspension which adds a little bit of lift, 17" FN Six Shooters (20.5lbs) and 265/70R17 SL Duratracs (42lbs). Even though they are slightly taller, they weren't much heavier overall with the FN's being lighter than stock and the SL Duratracs are reasonably light too. There wasn't a noticeable difference in acceleration either.
-Then I got HPTuners done by JustDSM and I think it improved by about .5mpg, but that's negligible and many factors could change that.
- 12.5-16mpg - Now I have 6112's and its about 2-2.5" taller than stock and 33x10.50R17 Kenda Klever RT's (62lbs). I drive with a lighter foot than before too. At almost 85lbs per corner and more agressive tread, it absolutely takes a lot more effort to move those 33's!! Even maintaining speed on the interstate takes noticeably more effort when going up inclines compared to the Duratracs. I fully expected and understood this when I got them, but it's still surprising how much of an affect they have.

Winter is a different story depending on how cold it is. In IA it's usually 25F or below and we often see cold streaks where highs barely get above 0F. I have also found that I get about 1mpg or slightly better using 91 vs 87 or 89. Since I don't drive it much, I use premium in it and usually top tier to help keep things clean.

I don't personally believe in those pedal commander do-hickies since all they do is take your pedals output voltage, run it through a pre-determined amplifier or attenuator and spit out a voltage for the ECM to open or close the throttle based on that. At $300, I'd rather spend the extra $250 or so and get a proper tune (HPTuners) that also vastly improves the transmission characteristics.

tarbal255 · Nov 30, 2022

I've always been curious how much help a full belly skid plate would help with mpg. I recall reading about some ecomodders who played with belly pans and found the best for mpg was a full center tray. Of course that was on a sedan and not a truck that's 2 feet in the air.

Woofer2609 · Nov 30, 2022

tarbal255 said: ↑

I've always been curious how much help a full belly skid plate would help with mpg. I recall reading about some ecomodders who played with belly pans and found the best for mpg was a full center tray. Of course that was on a sedan and not a truck that's 2 feet in the air.
Click to expand...

I've often wondered the same thing. From what I've read, air going underneath a vehicle is as responsible for drag as air going over the top of said vehicle.

nd4spdbh · Nov 30, 2022

Woofer2609 said: ↑

I've often wondered the same thing. From what I've read, air going underneath a vehicle is as responsible for drag as air going over the top of said vehicle.
Click to expand...

Honey - I got these skid plates to improve MPG's in the name of the environment babe.

YF_Ryan · Nov 30, 2022

I can improve my mileage by 7mpg ... by simply unloading all this stuff

6 mpg at 80-ish made that tank of gas disappear REALLY fast... dropping to 65 got me back to 8 mpg. Usually around 12.5-13.5 if i'm unloaded and have some freeway miles.

TacoTuesday1 · Nov 30, 2022

OP here’s your options.

Got wildpeak tall skinny 33”? Good luck they only come in Load E.

Lift, tires, armor, cold engine temp reduces MPG. The 1GRFE is a basic caveman engine not designed for efficiency. That’s why it has few moving parts and doesn’t get a check engine light once in 10+ years 160k mi

get a Ford Ranger with a turbo that actually has heated mirrors to not be blind during winter.

Or move to where gas is $2-3
invent a product. Go on shark tank. Start company.
get raise at job. Find better job.
your challenge is not unique. We all face the same thing

off roading? Got skids? Sliders? 200lb shell?
goodbye MPG
Or revert to stock so next time you want to enjoy scenic trails in nature you bang the hell up out of the underside. It’s one or the other can’t have both.
Even dream trucks like Raptors and TRX; it’s not 30MPG

there is no magic product magnet gimmick to put in your oil filter to add 3mpg. If there was companies would install it.

SpruceWillis said: ↑

I'm going to try hard to not make this sound like an advertisement, but I highly suggest looking into a Sprint booster throttle controller for several reasons.

I have been working in automotive electronics design my whole life and have dyno tuned, flash tuned ecus, built ecu dataloggers from scratch, did design work for the big 3, etc. the Sprint booster is one of the best automotive plug and play products I've seen in my life. However, doing some research online, they are very polarized and mixed reviews, after getting mine, I couldn't figure out at first why some people hated them and some loved them.

A friend of mine sells them in his store and talked me into it, which is the only reason I considered it. Being very familiar with (more old school) ECU tuning, when i first saw the sprint booster, I thought BS, that's not going to work or do anything. However i am more familiar with cable throttle body and not drive by wire at the time. now newer cars are all drive by wire, the throttle bodies are electronically controlled. You can get a complete stand alone ECU, tuned, custom turbo charge your engine, change everything, if you still have that OEM throttle body and pedal, it will always be the same. The performance of the Throttle body never changes. The ECU has no idea that it is even there, it only gets TPS signal coming back.

So if you were to slam your gas pedal down all the way, there's an accelerometer circuit inside the pedal assembly that senses that rate of change, deadens it out, and opens the throttle very slowly and controlled. The majority of this functionality, IMO, is for saftey, and some for longevity. Imagine our truck engines, lets say 200hp/200 lb ft, thats comparable to a lot of muscle cars decades earlier. Those type of cars not every grandma can get in and hit the gas 1/4 throttle, without slipping all over the place or crashing. Its a lot of power, but by today's standards its average. With the drive by wire, anyone can drive these vehicles, especially a truck with a light end.

Now one thing you are interested in is MPG, and most people do not get a throttle controller for MPG. I learned that MPG can actually be increased with this. Take the 2nd gen Tacoma for example, hit your throttle 0 to 75%, i mean slap it back and fourth. it almost does nothing. imagine being on the highway, curising 65 mph, you want to overtake a slower vehicle in front of you, you merge over one, and accelrate to pass. With the stock throttle setup, that 0-75% is doing nothing, you try to go to 50% and it doesnt give it enough to pass, so what happens is you end up going to that 75% or whatever (im using arbitraty numbers but you get the point). once you get past that 75%, now its too much, the engine revs, the transmission kicks down, and you just used way more gas to do this simple task of passing someone on the highway. Now with the Sprint Booster, depending on how aggresive of a setting you are using, you can push the pedal not even 1/10th, and instead of kicking down and revving out, it just gives a little. vrrrrrrrrrrr, and you are accelerating enough to pass the car, without downshifting or anything like that.

When im towing a trailer, all of the things i described are now exacerbated greatly, that's when you can really feel the thing working in your MPG benefit. Now me personally i drive very heavy, and this thing is not going to save me MPG because on a daily because I have it in 1:1 race mode all the time. When I'm careful on long road trips it does help. but your driving style will be the most influencing factor. Another customer at the shop mentioned his MPG increasing greatly, and he was the type of guy that drove carefully and tried to conserve gas.

I recommend trying one, because they have a no bs 30 day trial period, it installs in 5 minutes. if you don't like it, send it back.

Now for an example where it doesn't work. A friend of mine got an F-150 ecoboost. those thigns make tons of torque, twin turbo, all that. He wants to start tuning it up, so i recommend for him to buy one. He installs it and says it does nothing, i go drive his car to confirm, hes right, its very minimal difference. I called the vendor that sold it, he recommended putting it in manual transmission mode instead of Automatic to give it more sensitivity. We tried a bunch of stuff and it didnt work. Driving his truck though, i realized that compared to our trucks, his gas pedal actually works after 15-20%, its already a very sensitive pedal and very torqy engine. So that explained to me why some people do not like this thing and some do. He was able to return it no hassle, however he ended up getting one for his nissan Z instead where it made more of a difference.

I know there are several brands of this, i am more attracted to the sprint booster one as they have the original patent on it, but dont seem to be enforcing it in the US as they are a Greek company.

As for other MPG factors, i can only suggest the obvious, but there is not going to be anything that is a major game changer.

Tire pressure (actually tune it if you really want to dial in your MPG).
take off cap, or heavy tool box or extra weight.
air filter, general Maintenace, scan engine for MIL's.
check for brakes dragging
tire balance
alignment

A friend of mine lifted his truck, but left stock wheels on for a couple weeks until his wheels came in. he said there was no difference in MPG with the lift, his previous theory was that the aerodynamics would affect it a lot at the higher ride height. once he put the heavy 33's and wheels though, that's where the loss started. with that said I don't think air dams or anything would help much with something that already sits too high off the ground compared to a car.
Click to expand...

this makes me want one now.

I actually know how to drive. Can opposite lock drift in the rain 3rd gear steering with the gas no traction control.
(Something they literally require children to be able to do in Finland)
So a gas pedal that actually does what you tell it to, sounds useful. Especially for off road applications.

even though my truck is manual the way you describe it still sounds useful. Or even maybe an ECU tune as well. I already have cam gear upgrade

TacoTyusday · Dec 2, 2022

TegoTaco said: ↑

Try 35’s with a steel bumper.

I’ve only put 5000km since March of this year lol!
Click to expand...

LOl i've got winch, steel bumpers, underarmor, side steps, GFC platform camper....

terrified to go with 35's because I don't want to see MPG dip below 10 lmao. I also daily ride a motorcycle which costs about 1/4 the gas for the same distance.

ace96 · Dec 3, 2022

SpruceWillis said: ↑

I'm going to try hard to not make this sound like an advertisement, but I highly suggest looking into a Sprint booster throttle controller for several reasons.

I have been working in automotive electronics design my whole life and have dyno tuned, flash tuned ecus, built ecu dataloggers from scratch, did design work for the big 3, etc. the Sprint booster is one of the best automotive plug and play products I've seen in my life. However, doing some research online, they are very polarized and mixed reviews, after getting mine, I couldn't figure out at first why some people hated them and some loved them.

A friend of mine sells them in his store and talked me into it, which is the only reason I considered it. Being very familiar with (more old school) ECU tuning, when i first saw the sprint booster, I thought BS, that's not going to work or do anything. However i am more familiar with cable throttle body and not drive by wire at the time. now newer cars are all drive by wire, the throttle bodies are electronically controlled. You can get a complete stand alone ECU, tuned, custom turbo charge your engine, change everything, if you still have that OEM throttle body and pedal, it will always be the same. The performance of the Throttle body never changes. The ECU has no idea that it is even there, it only gets TPS signal coming back.

So if you were to slam your gas pedal down all the way, there's an accelerometer circuit inside the pedal assembly that senses that rate of change, deadens it out, and opens the throttle very slowly and controlled. The majority of this functionality, IMO, is for saftey, and some for longevity. Imagine our truck engines, lets say 200hp/200 lb ft, thats comparable to a lot of muscle cars decades earlier. Those type of cars not every grandma can get in and hit the gas 1/4 throttle, without slipping all over the place or crashing. Its a lot of power, but by today's standards its average. With the drive by wire, anyone can drive these vehicles, especially a truck with a light end.

Now one thing you are interested in is MPG, and most people do not get a throttle controller for MPG. I learned that MPG can actually be increased with this. Take the 2nd gen Tacoma for example, hit your throttle 0 to 75%, i mean slap it back and fourth. it almost does nothing. imagine being on the highway, curising 65 mph, you want to overtake a slower vehicle in front of you, you merge over one, and accelrate to pass. With the stock throttle setup, that 0-75% is doing nothing, you try to go to 50% and it doesnt give it enough to pass, so what happens is you end up going to that 75% or whatever (im using arbitraty numbers but you get the point). once you get past that 75%, now its too much, the engine revs, the transmission kicks down, and you just used way more gas to do this simple task of passing someone on the highway. Now with the Sprint Booster, depending on how aggresive of a setting you are using, you can push the pedal not even 1/10th, and instead of kicking down and revving out, it just gives a little. vrrrrrrrrrrr, and you are accelerating enough to pass the car, without downshifting or anything like that.

When im towing a trailer, all of the things i described are now exacerbated greatly, that's when you can really feel the thing working in your MPG benefit. Now me personally i drive very heavy, and this thing is not going to save me MPG because on a daily because I have it in 1:1 race mode all the time. When I'm careful on long road trips it does help. but your driving style will be the most influencing factor. Another customer at the shop mentioned his MPG increasing greatly, and he was the type of guy that drove carefully and tried to conserve gas.

I recommend trying one, because they have a no bs 30 day trial period, it installs in 5 minutes. if you don't like it, send it back.

Now for an example where it doesn't work. A friend of mine got an F-150 ecoboost. those thigns make tons of torque, twin turbo, all that. He wants to start tuning it up, so i recommend for him to buy one. He installs it and says it does nothing, i go drive his car to confirm, hes right, its very minimal difference. I called the vendor that sold it, he recommended putting it in manual transmission mode instead of Automatic to give it more sensitivity. We tried a bunch of stuff and it didnt work. Driving his truck though, i realized that compared to our trucks, his gas pedal actually works after 15-20%, its already a very sensitive pedal and very torqy engine. So that explained to me why some people do not like this thing and some do. He was able to return it no hassle, however he ended up getting one for his nissan Z instead where it made more of a difference.

I know there are several brands of this, i am more attracted to the sprint booster one as they have the original patent on it, but dont seem to be enforcing it in the US as they are a Greek company.

As for other MPG factors, i can only suggest the obvious, but there is not going to be anything that is a major game changer.

Tire pressure (actually tune it if you really want to dial in your MPG).
take off cap, or heavy tool box or extra weight.
air filter, general Maintenace, scan engine for MIL's.
check for brakes dragging
tire balance
alignment

A friend of mine lifted his truck, but left stock wheels on for a couple weeks until his wheels came in. he said there was no difference in MPG with the lift, his previous theory was that the aerodynamics would affect it a lot at the higher ride height. once he put the heavy 33's and wheels though, that's where the loss started. with that said I don't think air dams or anything would help much with something that already sits too high off the ground compared to a car.
Click to expand...

GorgeRunner · Dec 3, 2022

Drive slower

winkel · Dec 3, 2022

Woofer2609 said: ↑

Big tires on these trucks, and in general, are like fake boobs; usually unneeded, expensive, and no better than the originals. If gas is $5 gallon, after 100000 miles, you'll have spent over $12 grand extra at 13.5mpg vs. 20mpg. 215 or 235/85 r16s are available in most tires, will get you anywhere you'd probably want to go, cost less in the firstplace, and arguably look just as good. It's probably just me, but i don't understand the whole macho truck thing. Heck, buy a set of P245/75r16s for 400 bucks on rims and use those when you're not rock crawling. Honestly, atrach 5 lb ankle weights to yourself and go jogging, and then take them off and feel the difference, thats effectively what you're doing to your truck. Which of course, is your truck, so do as you like.
Click to expand...

Lol, this dude is spot on.
I just went up to a 265/75-16 Falken Wildpeak from a Michelin 245/75-16. I've been running Micelins for years but wanted a 'boob job' for my truck. Damned if she don't look prettier.

BUT, I did lose 1 or 2 mpg, but also have to consider the fact that the odometer is off a little from what it was before, when checking mpg. I have a 4.0L, six speed manual and just got back from Michigan yesterday, travelling for business. I was bucking a decent head wind and running about 75, and got about 17 MPG.

I really wanted to go with the 235/85-16, but I'll be damned if I'm going to buy E-rated tires again. I had E-rated Michelin Defenders on my old T-100 and they made that little truck ride like shit. The hell of it is, with an E-rated Michelin, on a small truck, you're going to live with them for a while! I think I could get 70,000 miles out of a set of Michelins on that truck.

My new Falkens are P-rated and are a little heavier than my previous tire simply because they are bigger, but they do ride nice.

No Shoes Nation · Dec 3, 2022

less weight . . . you could probably drop 130 pounds or so real quick, let the wife out.

Woofer2609 · Dec 3, 2022

No Shoes Nation said: ↑

less weight . . . you could probably drop 130 pounds or so real quick, let the wife out.
Click to expand...

Unless your wife is attached to one of your wheels, you won't notice much of a performance gain as passengers are non rotating, sprung weight.
In addition, your wife's probably not going to be very happy.

Boco10 · Dec 3, 2022

Lighten up by removing spare tire and tools. Pick up can of fix a flat. Keep minimum amount of gas in tank.

b_r_o · Dec 3, 2022

Remove oil cap, park Prius underneath oil cap, re-install oil cap

Trouble_The_Tacoma · Dec 3, 2022

Devo4x4[OP] initial post: ↑

Hey all. I’ve got an 06 Tacoma, 3” toytec lift on 33s (aired up to 35 btw). Engine is stock, I do have an MBRP exhaust tho. My MPGs are around 12.5-13.5 tank avg (highway/city mixed). Gonna say this before, I don’t drive aggressively, I keep RPMs under 2k as much as possible, use cruise on hwy. I’ve seen people on here claim 17+ mpgs in lifted 2nd gens, what sort of mods/maintenance/etc should I do to get there? thanks.
Click to expand...

Are you doing your math right?

Are you calculating for the larger tire size because 33s are 8.5% bigger in diameter. 245/75-16 stock tires are 30.47" diameter. And you're on 33s. 33 divided by 30.47 = 1.08. So if you drove 250mi on one tank of gas, you'd have to multiply the 250 by 1.08 first then divide by gallons used. So 250 * 1.08 = 270 miles actually driven. Then you'd do your dividing by gallons. So if you used 15 gallons that's 18mpg instead of 16.667mpg. OR You could take 16.667mpg and multiply it by 1.08 (16.667 X 1.08 = 18mpg)

You could also take your current mpg 13.5 and multiple it by 1.08 which would give you 14.58mpg actually. And that's pretty decent for lift and big tires.

TacoFergie · Dec 3, 2022

Weight in the bed or with people isn't going to make a significant difference in fuel economy. That's within reason of course. A few hundred pounds isn't going to change mileage a whole lot. Drag will affect it much more. I've put 500-600lbs of stuff in the bed under the tonneau cover and noticed little to no difference. Put my 250lb dirt bike in the bed and BAM, 1-2 mpg loss at 70mph. Pulling my dads V-Nose 6x10 Stealth Mustang trailer (1100lbs empty) that's almost 8' tall I get 9-10mpg filled or empty. Truck struggles to do 70mph, so I stick to 60-65mph with that.

Moral of the story, lift and taller tires make it thirsty. But it looks sooo much better! For better mpg, stick with stock size or 1 size up since stock is an oddball and as SL load rating. On top of that, use a highway or all season tread that has less rolling resistance. I haven't looked into more narrow tread, but I'm sure that would help too. Tire weight and rolling resistance will make the biggest difference though.

replica9000 · Dec 4, 2022

You need a Fuel Shark in combination with the Vortex Fuel Maximizer Performance Saver and make your Prius friends jealous...
This effectively reduces the weight of your wallet and your vehicle will be lighter, saving fuel. Please allow 100% margin of error.

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