MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Hey, Folks.

Table of Contents

1. What is the Accumulator
2. Swapped, Milled Accumulator Service Option
3. Machined Inner Disk
4. Plug and Play Delete Kit - Out of Production
5. Flare Explanation
6. @sherwoods_Fleet Installation Instructions
7. Delete Options:
8. Prefabbed / Salvaged Hard Line Mod
9. Flex Line Mod
10. Hack Your Accumulator / Dremel Mod
11. Brake Line Elbow Mod
12. Installation Details
13. PoS Accumulator Pics
14. 2.7l Clutch Line Diagram
15. Noise TSB-0186-17
16. @ShirtTucker 's Metal Pedal Notes
17. @TeecoTaco Needs Ti for Christmas


1. What is the Accumulator

A lot of MT cars / trucks come with some type of accumulator that messes with the clutch feel and engagement. This is said to help newbs learn to drive an MT and reduce shock and wear on the driveline. For anyone that knows how to drive an MT will laugh at this. The last thing anyone needs is system that doesn't follow your commands, is slow, and is inconsistent.

Removing the accumulator will add some feel to the clutch, speed engagement when you want to, and allow you to modulate the clutch effectively when you need it, such as when downshifting to 1st while moving.

If you want more feel, faster / direct engagement, and less wear, the ADM is for you.

​

2. Swapped, Milled Accumulator Service Option

@daveeasa is doing some heavy lifting here. Please, send him some of those old accumulators that are in good condition.

It's "For The Commuity!!"

Here are the details:

3. Machined Inner Disk.

@Firn came up with a great solution that replaces the wire shim and OE disk from the accumulator. This is a matching machined inner disk that has a cavity to allow free flow. Get yours here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...sk-3rd-2nd-fj-and-tundra-and-giveaway.780564/​

A simple, very efficient, and genius solution:

4. Plug and Play Delete Kit - Out of Production.

@Trident904 was fabbing formed hard lines including the coupler for this delete:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-accumulator-delete-kit.583387/

This is no longer available. Just leaving it here for history.​

5. Flare Explanation

Very good info on our flare type:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...id-accumulator-do.180006/page-2#post-19751480
Credit: @DaveInDenver


Additional flare info:
http://racetrackdriving.com/tech/brake-line-flares-metric-sae-inverted-bubble/
Credit: @geekyadam​

6. @sherwoods_Fleet Installation Instructions

Sorry for splitting up the installation details, but @sherwoods_Fleet 's instruction are too nice to bury further down. Of courses the PDF is attached at the bottom of this post. I know how to link it right here.​

7. Clutch Accumulator Delete Options:


8. 12in Prefab / Salvaged Hard Line and Coupler from autoparts stores / online:

This is arguably the easiest method, using either scrap brake line or a 12in prefab line (3/16in double flare with M10x1.0 fittings, and an M10x1.0 coupler).

There are some reports of leaking using the prefab lines. The reason is attributed to the type of flare fittings:

Toyota Sleeved Fittings:


Prefab Line Fittings:


It is felt that the unthreaded portion of the Toyota fittings helps with getting a good seal a the slave cylinder.

Here are the parts that @Trident904 used:



You need to form these bends:

Credit: @fatboyfirebass
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-and-bs-thread.568303/page-18#post-19311770


Credit: @Vitalzone
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-and-bs-thread.568303/page-14#post-18976661



Credit: @TD90S
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-and-bs-thread.568303/page-11#post-18959455​

9. Flex Line Mod with a banjo at the slave:

Credit: @J-pp
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-and-bs-thread.568303/page-19#post-19492004

Parts:
HNCL-20:

Techna-Fit Stainless Steel Clutch Line Kit for 2000-2003 HONDA S2000 - HNCL-20

https://www.amazon.com/Techna-Fit-Stainless-Steel-Clutch-Honda/dp/B00AQ2ODS2 (this doesn't look like @J-pp 's line?)
Banjo Fitting
Banjo Bolt
Crush Washers
P-Clamp with Rubber Sleeving​

10. Hack Your Accumulator / Dremel Mod:

Credit: @kgautier
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ine-ecu-reflash.515734/page-425#post-19553388

If you want to buy a new accumulator to hack up first, here you go:
https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2...OR-ASSEMBLY---CLUTCH/66802594/3149035100.html​

11. Brake Line Elbow Mod

This is the route that @RedBeard1 and I went. Thanks, @RedBeard1 for confirming that this should work.

I safety wired mine, while @RedBeard1 welded his to the original mounting plate:


My plan was to use some heat to twist the bracket 90deg for mounting. Edit: don't use heat. It isn't needed.


Mods to the elbow:

Original Part:


Flattened the mount bracket as much as possible without a vice:

The mounting hole didn't align well.

I thought a twist might help:

Nope! Other than giving a nice perch for the safety wire.

Final setup (the top side is to the right):

I had to cut off the bracket that extended past the plate so that it would fit on the transmission.​

12. Installation details:

I clamped off the inlet line just in front of the firewall.



I highly recommend removing the exhaust support. It is just 3 14mm bolts, makes dealing with the shield much easier, and allows the use of a straight 10mm line wrench. HF, FTW! My 12pt articulating 10mm was hosed up and almost rounded off the nipple. The HF ones are 6pt.

3 12mm to remove the accumulator from the transmission. I removed the accumulator (4 10mm) and reused the mounting plate.

Safety wire!

I bent the slave line up then back to flex it in to place. I then used various tools to gently flex the slave line away from the mount bolt and transmission.

Note: Get both nipples started by hand as far in as you can before tightening with a wrench or flexing the lines around for final alignment. You really don't want to cross thread anything here.



Bleeding was a piece of cake. It seems that the only air in the system was near the slave. Bubbles didn't seem to travel up as the supply continued to trickle?

Driving, there is a bit more feel. I will post up once I get more miles.​

13. Adding accumulator pics:

The circular wire is not a clip. It is a spacer to add preload to the plate and seal.​

14. 2.7l Clutch Line Diagram

Here it is:

From toyota.com

These are all the lines from the firewall to the slave cylinder. It looks like a very different routing. I do not think that Part Numbers 31482 or 31482A would be of any help with the ADM.​

15. Noise TSB-0189-17

See the attached TSB. This basically installs a new heat shield with noise insulation installed on the inside. I did this with some Noico sound mat and it really works to keep things quiet, esp in 1st gear.​

16. @ShirtTucker 's Metal Pedal Notes

Kickin' write up for the FJC clutch pedal swap:

17. Hey, @7r41lbr34k3r .

@TeecoTaco thinks that his life isn't complete without some shiny new Ti Radio Knobs. For him, just one of your knobs is not enough. He needs all the knobs.​

 

What do you need that little piece for?

 

Not that I have a manual transmission, but out of curiosity, what’s does this do?

 

It goes in place of the accumulator to maintain the existing turn. Standard elbow instead of the gizmo.

 

The accumulator decreases clutch throw, slows engagement, and kills most of the feel of the clutch grabbing.

 

definitely watching this one. long-term this is one of the main things needing a fix.

the unfortunate thing is I've got about 10 other super annoying things needing a short term fix before i can enjoy any of it.

 

Definitely watching the progress of this project. Will do ASAP if all goes well.

It appears as if it will be reversible for warranty work too, eh?

Thanks for posting it.

 

It should be very reversible.

Unless they are touching the clutch or transmission, there's no need to worry since it is hidden under a heat shield.

 

Sub’b for write up and feedback

 

Post pics as you go! Good luck!

 

YASS.

 

If you mske this work, @tonered POTUS!

 

You did say you were running dry on mods...lol

Giver'

 

TY for doing this Tony, very interested in the outcome.

Since I have no experience bleeding a hydraulic clutch, could you include tips/tricks in that regard if you have time?

Again, thanks!

 

You don't want me for that! Hahaha!

LoL! The order was in on this before I posted that.

 

Will do!

 

Done yet?

 

Lol, 'dis guy...

 

Here's the little beasty:




I noticed that the removal procedure in the SM said to remove the front driveshaft... hoping that can be worked around.