MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

I'm in @7r41lbr34k3r

 

Spent 6 hrs today milling out a bolt in replacement block for the accumulator, using the 1/8 npt to m10x1.00 adapters sold by LRO. Only to find out that the adapters are to shallow to accept the fittings on the lines. There is a 3mm section on the fittings that have no threads. I was only able to achieve 1-1.5 threads of engagement. I now wish I had checked first before going through all the trouble. This was only meant to be a “prototype” anyway out of aluminum, then another would have been milled out of brass. I’m looking into endmills that will cut the flare seat without using any adapters. Here’s what I came up with, without getting too crazy with corner rounding, and such. I like to mess around on the mill at work from time to time, but I dont even consider myself a novice. Alot to learn. I’m going to install a female- female coupler for now with a new piece of line from the slave, similar to @TD90S, while I come up with a better solution.

 

Nice effort! That does suck that they are too shallow.

 

Here was my contingency if you want to contact them(says they have metric sizes available at the bottom).

http://www.tristareng.com/j512-tooling.html

 

Yeah... Toyota uses a different kind of flare nut. I stumbled across that fact by chance a couple of days ago while doing part of my overly anal planning for the project.

Of course, they're harder to find. Summit Racing has some, but I might just hit up a junk yard for a couple of flare nuts and some brake line. I already have the 90 degree union.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/urr-br205

 

I think I found a bolt on solution. A premaid hose. It will probably need to have a loop put in it to save on space, then be held in place with an insulated hanger.

https://agscompany.com/product/japanese-flexible-brake-line-3-16-x-12/

Carid also has them for sale

https://www.carid.com/american-grease-stick/ags-flexible-brake-line-828721141.html

It also shows no shipping cost.

 

I think you found the easiest solution.

 

Nice start!
This is exactly what I want but don’t have the means to make.
If you invest the time and money to see this through, I’m in for one. I think others will too.

 

Unless I missed it I don’t see the length of that hose but that would be the easiest solution.
The problem is the proximity of the exhaust to this area. I would want it to fit under the heat shield and not be rubbing on the shield or the transmission case.

 

There was shipping added, but was like $25 shipped to me. For that price I'll be the guinea pig and see how it works out. I do still like the idea of a machined replacement for the accumulator, so I'd be in on that when it comes to fruition.

 

12" long and I'll let you guys know if it's going to work or end up rubbing anything. I've wasted more money on less if it doesn't work out.

 

Im not confident I could pull off mass produced parts. I’m working with a manual mill. It takes forever to produce even simple parts such as this. However alot of my time was spent figuring out, bore depths, bolt patterns, and generally just copying the oem accumulator dimensions. I have the ok to work on personal projects at work, but it’s corporate aerospace, they will fire my ass if I get caught using the shop for what they would consider all the wrong reasons.

 

Totally understand. Super jealous you have access to the equipment!

 

Wait a moment, all you need a short piece of brake line to bypass the accumulator correct? I just replaced all my brake lines with some braided ones, can I just reuse one of my old brake lines? It should have the same flair and fittings?

 

Yup. All you need is an M10x1.0 union. Unless you want to mail me your brake line and fittings.

 

I'm not 100% sure about that. A loop will create high spot where an air bubble might get caught and be hard bleed out?

12in might be long enough to get from the upper line to the slave directly, if one end had a male fitting?

 

I wasn't sure if the loop would cause issue or not. I like the idea of replacing the block and the lower line. I always like fewer connections. I think my next weekend internet search will be 18" line, male on one end, female on the other.

In that train of thought, how difficult would it be to replace the hole length up to the firewall with a stainless braided piece or a hand bent length of line from an auto parts store? By that I mean, how accessible is the upper connection? I am not sure what the maneuvering room is like on the back side of the firewall.

 

Sorry to be a downer. I'm not saying it isn't going to work, but I have struggled in the past when bleeding lines that had air bubbles. OTOH, it was a piece of cake to bleed the clutch after this mod. So, just a word of warning in general.

The upper part of the line is very inaccessible with the transmission in place. The whole area is tight, but thankfully, it isn't hard to get the cat support out for a bit of room.

Also having a connection there is convenient if you need to drop the transmission for a clutch swap. Of course, there is still the connection at the slave for that esp if you are going with a flexible line.

Regardless, this mod continues to make me smile.

 

So, it sounds like replacing the entire run is not really an option unless you are replacing the clutch or some other work requiring the transmission to be dropped.
I am excited to get his done on my truck. Unfortunately, I will most likely be waiting to the weather warms up here again in the spring, or hopefully one more weekend warm snap before winter.

Depending on how the search goes, I may just try a union and replacing the lower length with a hand bent replacement that is a little longer than the stock one. I'm a little nervous trying to re-bend the lower stock line like the picture shown in post #212. I can leave everything hooked up until I get a piece of line the right length bent up the way I like it before I disconnect everything. I'd hate to tear it apart and then be stranded in my driveway because I kinked a line or got the wrong length, etc.

 

I don’t think replacing the entire run from the firewall down would be any harder if you are using a premade flexible hose.
If you are using a hard line you will need have the tools to flair the line, or find one the exact length you need. I guess the same would apply to a flexible hose.

I wanted the ability to go back stock if needed/wanted. Used another piece of line to replace the accumulator and lower line. This is what I have left over.