MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Not if bypassing the accumulator directly to the slave.

 

Hey, Frank.

That disk is thick enough that I don't see it flexing under the assumed clutch pressures, esp on the release stroke.

I might be very wrong, but I still feel there is moving part hidden in the accumulator.

 

Ah ok.. so really all we're seeing is the fluid going through a small opening into a larger chamber, and then out through another small hole.
I don't know shit about this, but isn't an accumulator supposed to store energy against a spring, weight, or pressurized gas (wiki)? I'm failing to see how this damn thing works lol. I mean, the engineers routed the fluid through that larger "chamber " for a reason.

 

Yeah thats true didn’t think of that. Damn I feel kinda dumb now haha.

 

Until I see otherwise, I believe there is a mechanism like a ball-spring hidden in that part. It is the only way that I can explain the unusual disengagement feel. I can see the disk deflecting due to the seal flexibility, but dang, that isn't much at all for the weirdness. In a year's time, I only got one or two perfect drops into 1st. Now, it's butta every time.

No worries. It's all good!

 

I installed the Earl's Performance Speed-Flex hose today, but I don't recommend using it for a couple of reasons.

The upward bend after coming off the slave extends into the rear opening of the heat shield and rubs against it, which could be bad over time. You could wrap the hose to protect it from rubbing, but it would be better if it didn't rub at all. Yeah, it has a metal sheath, but I could see that wearing away over time.

The only spot to clamp the hose is in the lower accumulator mounting bolt hole, but if you do that, it forces the large upper connector on the Speed-Flex hose to come in contact with the tranny. My guess is that would induce a rattle that would drive you nuts. Again, you could wrap the upper connection to prevent rattling, but...

In the end, I couldn't find a suitable position for the hose that wouldn't either contact the tranny, or the heat shield.

It was worth a shot though, due to the relative ease of installation (27% fewer curse words), and complete lack of unions.

Tomorrow I'm going to replace the Speed-Flex line with a hard line.

 

It was worth a shot!
You will be rewarded with the effort...
I’m two weeks in on the mod and while I still wish it provided a little more “feel”..
It’s a big improvement!

 

Thank you for sharing. I think there were quite a few of us waiting for this report. Hard line and a union it is. Off to AutoZone tomorrow. I may pick up a couple of small lengths. I'm batting around .500 with bending brake lines.

 

The big question is, did you go for a drive!?

 

I did, because curiosity got the best of me, but I still had the shield and exhaust bracket off, so it was only around the block.
The only thing I was able to discern was the clutch engaging the the same point in the pedal travel during each shift.

Looking forward to the final fix tomorrow.

 

I am going to make my attempt at this mod tomorrow morning.
@tonered what is the bleed procedure? Pump the clutch a few times and crack the valve? I am guess that an improperly bled system will not yield the desired results, so I would like to make sure I get the most out of this mod.

 

I just gravity bleed mine.

 

Yes. I did the couple pumps, hold, crack and close the bleed port, and repeat a few times for insurance. It looked like it was good to go after the first round, but I had my daughter there and made the most of it.

 

Sounds good!

 

Nice, she operate the pedal or twist the wrench?

 

I would have been stoked if she was on the wrench, but I was happy that she was on the pedal.

 

Well everybody, I finished the mod yesterday. Not without some issues, but it is done and what a world of difference. That said, I did some digging to see if a "reworked" accumulator could be re-installed.

Short story: No.
Nothing is impossible, but I don't think its worth the time or money. Stick with a coupler and a 12" piece of brake line from O'Reilly's.

I mangled 2 sections of tubing trying to re-use the OEM threads. The pre-flared piece shown above threads right into the slave cylinder just fine. Just be patient as it won't have the generous lead in that the OEM threads display.

Side Note: The good news is, I was able to repurpose one of the discarded sections into a tight "J" shape to help eliminate that annoying air bubble in the wiper reservoir and allow me to fill it up to the cap and empty the jug.

Long story on the accumulator: It seems to be set up as a flow restrictor, More so than a venturi or weir, which would be a localized restriction. This is a " treacherous path" from the inlet, behind the disc, through the outlet. It has the effect something like a timer.

It all starts with the inside diameter of the line, 3/16" which has a cross sectional area of 0.02876 square inches. The flow path behind the disc only has a cross sectional area of 0.0086 square inches. Roughly 1/3 the cross sectional area, over a length of about 1/2", (center to center of the holes).
A trough could be machine to connect these two ports, that would increase the area and help. But there are also restrictions in the flared seats. These have similar reduction to the cross sectional area of the flow path.
I tried to drill one out to 3/16", and the brass caught on the drill bit and pulled out showing the next problem.
There is not enough material to drill out the insert and then press back into the housing to re-use the seat.
The press fit bore in the casting would have to be opened up and a new flare seat fabricated and press back into place.

Again, not impossible, just not worth the trouble, in my opinion.

 

Awesome effort and research!

 

Nice work. I stand corrected on my assumptions about what is inside the PoS!

Agreed!

 

so, Tony, I'm curious. is there a 'best' or preferred method for this yet?