MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

IMVHO, a direct swap in elbow would be the absolute easiest. The problem looks like it would be machining those brass seats? The last word from @7r41lbr34k3r seemed to be that it might be difficult or not cost effective to do.

Second up would be the 12in or 13in section of hard line from an autoparts store or from some scrap if you have access. It seems that pre-made lines are generally available in M10 x 1.0 male-male double flare fittings. You would also need an M10 x 1.0 double female coupler. I'd still recommend a p-clamp for support. These have been posted by a couple folks and were at my local O'Reillys also. This would eliminate both the accumulator and the stock line to the slave. You would have to form a couple turns in the line: 90deg and something a bit less than 180deg with some shaping to get everything aligned. Here, be certain that the fittings start by hand before you put the line wrench on there.

The route that I went with the brake line elbow is probably the hardest, but gets it done with the stock lines. This involves reshaping the hard line to the slave to make up for lost distance. Again, starting the fittings by hand to ensure nothing is cross threaded is necessary.

Folks have posted about using custom flex lines, but I don't think anyone has posted a completion of the mod? This would be a great way to go, but we'd need confirmation of the fittings.

 

thanks very much for this. I've always had an aversion to dealing with hydraulics so appreciate the guidance... from all who contributed here.

 

You're welcome!

Agreed. This was my first time messing with anything that just didn't bolt into place. Mostly, my experience is with banjo fittings and messing with brakes and clutches on motorcycles.

 

I know that there have certainly been mechanics downstream that have looked at a design I worked on, and said 'WTH was that stupid Eng'neeer thinking', even though it was a good idea given a world of constraints we live in.

So I know I should keep saying that there must have been good reasons for this design.

But really, WTH is that thing. It is just beyond my recognition of what it is supposed to be given how they designed it. It just seems like if they wanted an orifice, there are literally an infinite number of cheaper easier ways. A damper with orifice and accumulator resevoir maybe?

I dont know. I would just love to hear the guy who put that thing in the truck design explain wtf it's supposed to do..

 

I'm guessing that is what the intent was. A tip of the hat back to the old days of "air" logic or "Hydraulic logic".
As I think about it, the goal, slower smoother engage and disengage? but... I remember when I was a new driver, my dad screaming when I would "play" the clutch. Just like riding the clutch, there is slippage that leads to early life expectancy of the friction material.

 

The main thing is the slows the engagement dramatically, which lets the clutch slip longer than necessary on mis-matched engagements. Which both adds wear and teaches the driver NOTHING about the error. With the lack of feel, it really puts folks into a guessing game.

I honestly can't see how it helps newbs learn or experienced folks drive.

 

Yep, that is what I got hung up on .. making the seats without actual specs in front of me. Approximating something like that is just a problem waiting to happen. That, and potential casting inconsistency leading to a break through or thin wall situation if I decided to channel it out.

Edit: I would also have to establish my own datums, which is pretty sketchy after the part is already made to known datums.

 

I agree/understand what we think they intended.

What I mean, but didnt articulate well is, if systems analysis group told you to design an orifice with a small resevoir for the clutch, how would you Ever end up with a thing that looked like that.

(Yes I have been party to designs of brackets installed on brackets, installed on brackets and other stupidity, but wth were they smoking to design that thing. How many dollars in just machining and assembly cost for an orifice and volume?)

 

Not a problem. Thanks for taking a look at it!

I think it has been confirmed, but have you checked to see if you have an accumulator or not?

Otherwise if someone wants mine to screw around with, please feel free to pass it along. If not, toss it in the recycle bin.

Have a good one.

 

Exactly. The removable venturi restrictions seem to get the job done for those MFGs who chose to use them and are easier to delete. Some tech fellow, 35yr person must have made that into their retirement opus before pulling the eject handle.

 

You're welcome. I have not looked on my truck yet, but I would be super surprised if we did not have one for the 2.7. Based on the many anecdotes on here, I experience much of the same issues with my clutch, but you never know if my mind would change after taking a 3.5 MT for a test run.

I will keep it in my toolbox, and if anyone needs it .. I can pass it along.

 

All that I know is that the TSB update (sorry! It sounds like the 2.7l deserves one also) helped shifting by gaining consistency. The accumulator delete was a big change also. Combined together, it feels like any other 'normal' MT to me.

 

Yup. Or, running change over change after another change, until you're finally in so deep you don't have time or funding to start over and do it correctly the first time.

 

Any else get this TSB done? Apparently they are changing out master cylinders. https://old.reddit.com/r/ToyotaTacoma/comments/9uqs9x/psa_for_3rd_gen_manual_trans_owners/

 

can anybody find the PDF of the updated TSB? Looks like it's originally for the 2nd Gens

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-pedal-squeak-creak-noise-recall-expands-–-tsb.251223/

 

Hey, Guys.

I do not (yet) have this problem even though I tried removing the spring to test out that mod. During the reinstallation, I wiped off most of the grease messing around.

What has been posted about folks getting this squeak TSB done is that the area is tight and the mechanics are prone to goofing something else up. The problem doesn't seem to be the master cylinder (metal on the 3rd Gens versus nylon on the 2nd Gens).

The big recommendation that keeps coming up is to use Disk Brake Grease at all the pivot points (pedal and spring). This is noted to be long term solution where with the TSB, the squeak may come back.

Just my $0.02.

 

Thanks Tony. Saved us from going down a rabbit hole!

Disk Brake Grease sounds like an easy win.

 

No problem, but the credit goes to others that have done battle before me.

I think @shakerhood posted some tools to help get the grease in deep? Was it kebab skewers?

 

I found the long wooden Q-Tips as the best way to reach the areas of the pedal assembly you cannot get your hands to.

 

The disc brake grease did the trick on my squeak at the pedal. It also eliminated a "click" I could feel during the travel. Been a few weeks, but still smooth & quiet.