MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Largely ignorant on Gen II. Does yours have an accumulator?

I'm 65, MT's since 15 or so, and my MT 2019 clutch did have some built in puffiness. Accumulator gone now, feels like most any other clutch, timing wise.

 

Yeah, I admit that is a tough call. To be honest, since you wheel in very cold temps I myself might even recommend a full bypass. LV fluid as well

Now that we have colder weather around the country it would be interesting to hear from other members as to the effect of cold weather on the disk.

 

So yeah...your history includes cable driven clutch, you mentioned fluid driven clutch as well. What we DO know is your 2011 does have an accumulator. You are the dood in the pilot seat so if it works for you, awesome.

What > I < gained is more of a feel of cable driven vs fluid driven...although I have had previous fluid driven clutches that didn't "slush" as well, I figure because they were not "accumulated fluid" driven clutches. For feelz I like cable clutch...tolerate free flow fluid clutch...accumulated fluid clutch made me feels like I just learned to shift every other shift or so. Free flow eliminates the "engagement of clutch as just a suggestion" profile of an accumulated clutch profile. I want the engagement when I want the engagement, not when the bernoulli principle dictates when it should happen. If > I < wanted that, I'd introduce a torque converter and call it a slush box...that's just me.

Besides, outside of first and reverse, I'd rather float the gears and fvck the clutch out of the equation.

This is the beauty of MT right? You tune your guitar to your playing style! Can't have this convo if you drive an AT.

Sorry bro, you asked, lol...

 

Damn if you didn't just describe my driving experience.

I manual swapped my '99 4runner with the running gear from a '98 a few years back. Even with the computer freaking out over not seeing any shift solenoids, the throttle response was leaps and bounds better all around. I never had any issues heel-toeing and big-toeing the throttle and clutch maneuvering around/over obstacles offroad. The rev hang is killer on this motor, especially when cold. I've been trying to figure out how to drive this clutch and throttle combo since I picked it up in september. There's been times when everything is nice and smooth and every shift goes great, but 70% of the time, no matter how fast/slow i am on/off the throttle and clutch pedals, I end up feeling like I'm getting kicked in the seat shifting gears. Unlike the 5spd in my '99 (or really any other manual I've ever driven), this 6spd also seems to have miles of slop when shifting, and as soon as the throttle begins to bite I can feel the stick being pushed into or pulled out of my hand.

With temps dropping, I was searching if anyone elses clutch feels extreeeeeemely sluggish. Glad I'm not the only one (I guess).

I had been planning to do the accumulator bypass in the spring. Will be a good time to change the fluid to see if that helps in the cold.

 

I just did the fluid, takes about 20 minutes, less if I had the correct wrenches handy (12mm and 10mm) and hadn't tried to do it without removing the heat shield first (take out 3 bolts, bend out of way)

I have to admit, I think it would be interesting to see if lv fluid itself helps with removing the effect of the accumulator.

If you were willing to try and change the fluid without any other mod folks may be interested in the result. Not that I expect much as far as accumulator goes, the hot viscosity is near identical, but without combining any other mod knowing how the lv fluid response might be useful

 

.... It's literally brake fluid. The same stuff. The same bottle. Like, it's not "like" brake fluid, you literally use DOT 4 brake fluid ...

Why wait for the warranty to expire? Unless you're bringing it in because the accumulator is broken, and no one's going to bother looking for the accumulator. And with a bypass in place it literally affects nothing else on the truck. Even if you brought it in for a clutch warranty or TSB, we don't check the accumulator.

 

Makes more sense. Also.... Nice quote

Tbf tw has been a tad wonky lately

 

Drove the truck today in some actual cold (-4)

Truck left a moderately warm garage (50f) and out into the cold. Clutch distinctly stiffened up but not terribly so, also did not notice the accumulator.

After driving a while I imagine the system absorbed some heat but I can't imagine it was much.

All in all the lv fluid seemed to work well in the cold

 

As a point of reference, I drove in single digits today, not insanely cold by any stretch, but clutch was fine. Still have the accumulator (for now).

 

Drove mine today, was a little stiff but definitely operable. Plenty warm and rolling after about 3 minutes. Oh, and it was four degrees when I left

 

When I installed Firn’s disk I replaced all the fluid with the Lucas DOT 3 full synthetic and so far in the colder weather it seems better. I know in years past my clutch pedal was terrible leaving work when it was cold out. It would take like 10-15 minutes of driving to get a somewhat normal pedal feel back. So far this year it hasn’t happened.

 

10°F my clutch pedal was reasonable

 

Looks like this thread hasn’t been very active lately, but I never got around to doing this mod on my truck and now I’m selling it. I have a brand new accumulator I’d gladly sell for less than Toyota’s price if anyone is looking for one to modify and swap into their truck with no down time.

 

Has anyone tried drilling the passages through to each other? I'm thinking it could be done, and it would work just as well. You could also claim ignorance if the dealer were to find that it has been modified. As in, the part was improperly (overdrilled) from the factory. In which case, I doubt it could be the root of a problem, and if it were, you wouldn't falsely blame them for it anyway. Lol! It is Friday after all!

 

You could, but you are very likely to ruin the flare seat in the process.

The stock accumulator comes only as an assembled part. There is no reason for a shop to open it up. Further, there is next to no warranty on the clutch system anyway.


In the end, @Firn 's disk is the simplest operation.

Dremel'ing allows for a fast and pretty ham-fisted approach to modding the existing part.

90% of the effort is gaining access and buttoning up.

 

I looked into drilling. It didn't work well because the brass insert spun out.

 

Thank you for the complete and thorough details, I didn't read through the whole thread. I figured there must be a reason that drilling wasn't an option besides the possibility of gooning the flare seat.

 

No dealership ever checks these.

In the rare case of clutch failure, at best it was just be in the long list of parts to replace.