MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Is there a set of instructions for bleeding the clutch post delete?
I'm not sure if I'll have to bleed the brakes as well. If not will I need extra brake fluid?

 

It's just like bleeding brakes except you'll have to pick the pedal up off the floor after opening / closing the bleed nipple.

Clutches are totally independent of the brakes.

The ORs have a small reservoir, so do have fluid on hand.

 

I plan to install ADD by @Firn soon, maybe this weekend. I'll report back with my results. Thanks for this thread of useful (and BS, haha) info.

 

I got my disk but haven't gotten around doing this

 

I helped @NomadicCypress install a disk from @Firn . It definitely speeds up the process.

Good stuff!

 

Looking to do the disk mod, but I'm so nervous about screwing something up.

 

On my 2022 Sport, the brake fluid reservoir is also the clutch fluid reservoir.

Just keep it full as you bleed the clutch and no need to bleed the brakes.

Pretty easy, other than physical access. Find a hose or bleed kit that fits over the slave cylinder bleed screw and run the other end into a plastic bottle with brake fluid in it.

That keeps the hose from sucking more air into the system.

My wife pumped the clutch pedal 20 times and held it. I opened the bleeder screw and watched the air and fluid come out.

Close bleeder screw and repeat. But as stated above the clutch pedal stays on the floor and has to be physically pulled up to start the process again.

I kept doing it until the last two times were nothing but fluid, no air, probably 8-10 times total.

Clutch working so much better. I only added fluid once during the process and then topped it off at the end.

 

That is the beauty of the @Firn 's disk. A couple less steps to deal with.


And honestly, I got some air in my clutch line when swapping the TOB and some in @NomadicCypress 's line doing the ADM. I could still easily shift mine, but it was down to the floor. Within 5days, the system worked out all the air. @NomadicCypress was good in a day or so. Never had an issue doing about six other ADMs.

So what I am saying is that there isn't a whole lot to worry about. Basically, if you can do a brake job, you can do the ADM.

 

Had some air in mine the first time I did it too. It fixed itself by the end of my first drive.

 

I did 50 burpees to flush clutch fluid, used most of a bottle. Got some bicep work pulling the pedal up too. That was a fun day!

 

I'm on the same boat, don't want to mess something up.

 

If you have done any maintenance yourself I would say you are safe. Very simple to do.

If you want to be extra safe get some flare nut wrenches. Mine was a new truck so I risked it with regular wrenches, which worked fine. That said, flare nut wrenches are the safe bet.

Aside from that it's pretty darn simple.

 

It was a few days of sweating it for me. I was happy to feel the engage point moving out, but feeling that stupid non-linear spring being non-linear sucked. Happy that I didn't need to touch it a second time.

 

Anyone else try the low viscosity fluid? I'm intersted in hearing others thoughts on it.

 

Finally did this to my 2nd gen the other day using the union and bending a new hardline.

I can’t believe the difference in the feel of the pedal. Kinda regret waiting 10 years to do this mod.

 

I'm glad that you're finally sorted out though. Good stuff!

 

Did anyone that put a union in have problems with the clutch fork hitting the pressure plate

 

Been a while since I've been on this forum. What's the best way to do this mod nowadays?

 

Not this guy. That's a lot of throw.

 

@Firn 's disk. He has a thread in the BST section.