MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

If you go with @Firn 's disk there is no modification to the line/accumulator itself, reversible if need be.

 

Sorry if it's been asked. I just did this mod and it feels much better. However, when releasing the clutch and it disengages, it starts to "stick" a bit on release. Is that normal? I went under the pedal and noticed that this shaft has play in it. Thoughts?

https://youtube.com/shorts/fdMSuELHTRI?feature=share

 

That play is normal. Sticking when releasing is not normal, though.

 

Thanks for the quick response! Sigh of relief here.

Should the release be one smooth motion or does it have a noticeable "tension" transition (for a lack of better term) from when the clutch disengages to when the pedal comes all the way up?

 

I want to say the clutch pedal return spring, due to the way it’s built and hooked to the pedal, provides two different feelings of feedback depending on the position of the pedal.

 

Sounds like it's perfectly normal then. Appreciate the insight!

 

Is it acting differently now than before though? The accumulator delete is one thing, but the clutch spring feel is another and doesn’t change after the accumulator delete. So I’m not sure if you have a problem or not…

 

It's certainly different than stock. Stock was intrusive but it was at least one smooth motion engaging and disengaging. After the delete (hose bypass), it feels like there's two stages during disengagement instead of one continuous smooth motion. Engagement is normal, however. I've owned other MT vehicles in the past and this just feels different.

For the record, this is a 2023 OR with 4k miles on it.

 

How long ago did you finish up the work? My pedal felt very odd for about half a day, it still had air in it despite me bleeding a bunch. It worked itself to normal with some driving. The clutch still functioned normal but it felt very strange to the foot until it fixed itself. Maybe that’s what you’re feeling?

 

That might be it. The job was done yesterday. I've only placed maybe 20 miles on it so far. It was bled several times too. I'll put some more miles on it and hopefully, it'll resolve itself

 

Happened to me too.

60,000+ miles later and no issues

 

went with the disc. always felt impossible to shift truck smoothly unless you did very slow. this fixed that issue.

 

Hi all. My disc just arrived today (thanks @Firn) and I had a couple questions before I start. I have a '23 TRD sport and it looks like there is a single brake fluid reservoir shared by the brakes and the clutch, is that accurate? I don't see a separate reservoir for the clutch master cylinder.

Also, on bleeding the clutch, never done that before. Am I opening the slave cylinder bleeder when the clutch pedal is on the floor or up position? And then closing it before moving the pedal again? Saw some videos that suggest gravity bleeding alone is enough, but wasn't sure on that.

Thanks for any input. Looking forward to a less sloppy clutch.

 

That is correct, only one reservoir on the sport.

Gravity bleed is fine. Just do it several times.

Tip: wants the bleeder is closed and you are pumping the clutch, make sure there's enough fluid in the reservoir and leave the cap off. This will allow any free air pockets to get out easier. So you're not fighting against the seal. Once you've done this a couple times you can do your final push with the cap on. And see if you like the feel of your clutch.

 

Gravity bleed seems to do the trick for most. Here's some that also did the pump method.

 

i completely drained system to swap all fluid to dot 5.1. gravity feeding was doing nothing. i happened to have a one way check valve brake bleeder that i put on and could quickly pump the clutch pedal and got every bit of air out.

 

Did the delete last night. I ended up drilling the passage through to each other. 7/64" bit. I was going to remove the accumulator entirely and had a prefab line and coupling on hand. I decided to try and carefully drill the passage since I had the line and coupling. The 3/16" line and brass seats in the accumulator are pretty close to 7/64" inside diameter. Drilling through was easy and fast. I still had to disassemble the accumulator to remove the swarf. Cleaned it thouroughly with brake clean and compressed air. After all was said and done this is just another way to accomplish the delete. I can feel the bite much better now.

 

I’ve had @Firn ’s disk on my work bench for a month now. Found some time this morning and got the install done.

I am an absolute moron for waiting so long. Should have been the first thing I did to my truck. Rev matching downshifts, creeping in traffic, backing up, banging through gears.. Anything clutch related is so much better. Especially with the YotaWerx Blackhawk tune / throttle response.

I was solo this morning so I used a vacuum bleeder @10 psi with zero issues. If you are on the fence.. Do it.

Thanks Firn for helping as out with an easy way to unf**k our hydraulic clutch system.

 

Thank you for the awesome feedback!

 

Just did the hack and don’t really notice any improvement. Looking at the picture on page one, I definitely didn’t grind my channel as deep and wide. Could this be causing my lack of improvement?