MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Thanks! So, fix a squeaky pedal and get a strep test all at the same time?

I was hoping for red meat and veggies.

 

Is the elbow OP used the cleanest option at this time? Going to pull the trigger on parts because after 42k miles I'm losing my mind with the stock clutch.

 

This (mine / same as @RedBeard1 ):



Versus this (@Vitalzone 's):

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-and-bs-thread.568303/page-14#post-18976661

I'd say that the second is cleaner. You just need to have some pre-made line (12in), or access to salvage lines and a double flaring tool, and a double female coupler.

The elbow costs a bit more whether you pick it up at your dealer or order it online with shipping. I would add a clamp to support line, IMHO.

As I said in the post you quoted, I think the elbow is the most difficult? It definitely works though.

 

@tonered
What about this? Make a plate to bolt it to or reuse the original???? Plug the extra port......maybe be able to keep the stock lines with a little convincing...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Earls-Perf...c:ShippingMethodExpress!64153!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0

 

best way IMO is a nitrile glove, grab a couple finger's of grease, and work it inside the coil with your fingers. you won't miss any spots if you can feel where to go. use a tool and you'll miss the one spot that's dry.

 

I'm reinstalling my return spring in a couple weeks when i get this bypass done. I've worked it out with my mechanic. he's done a lot of them on the 2nd gens.

 

You certainly could. But, I'd have a questions.

-- The flares use the pressed in seat to seal. Would you get a seal with this block? It's hard to tell from the pictures.

-- Also, it doesn't look that much bigger than the brake line elbow. So, you would still have to reform the line to the slave for fit up.

With that and the cost, I'd just get a pre-made piece of line.

 

Post your guy up when you're done for other locals!

Edit @St.Germain : Be sure that he knows the 3rd Gen seems to be different than the 2nd Gens. From searching around, the 2nd Gens seemed to either have a flex line coming down or more slack to just use a coupler. I could be wrong, but I know there is very little slack on the 3rd Gen to work with.

For what I am talking about, take a close look at the video here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dat-clutch-tho.497974/page-2#post-17082076

I actually just noticed after watching that video probably 20 times that the accumulator is even in a different orientation. Haha!

 

Cool. Just throwing ideas out, haven't decided which way to go yet..

 

It's all good. That is just what popped into my mind and is almost what I was hoping that we could have custom fabbed.

This was my weaksauce sketch of a part that would be the same size as the accumulator and have at least one attachment point:

 

yeah he's already inspected it and made a plan for it specific to 3gen. thanks for the heads up.

 

Cool!

You're welcome!

 

Anyone who has done this on a gen 2 think you could reuse the valve, but just drill out the insides ? Seems like a drill press could hollow this thing out and leave the threads intact.

 

That is the problem that was noted. The seats for the lines would get too thin and possibly collapse. That would not solve the real issue on the back side where you need to channel out the flow restriction.

With all that, the easier job is just to swap in a 12in prefab line with a coupler.

 

Sorry. Due to the detail machining needed, a drop in replacement is not feasible. The best route is a prefabbed 12in line and coupler. You just need to do some gentle forming (a 90deg and something a bit more open than 180deg).

Unlike the settling that gets reported for the ECU TSBs, the accumulator delete is as good as ever. I have a couple thousand on it including a couple offroad trips. There is nothing that could get me to reinstall that PoS.

If you need anything else, please let me know.

In the next couple days, I will update the OP with this mod direction. Some folks posted some good pics a few pages back that I will use since I'm sticking with the brake line elbow for now.

 

Toyota OEM Brake line elbow with a new or modified bracket welded to it has been working beautifully for me for over a year now. Honestly one of the best mods I have made to the truck. It is a nearly free part at most wrecking yards or you can order a new one from Toyota.

 

Coupler and brake line method on my rig. Works fine. I have about 1200 miles on mine. Just double checked underneath to make sure everything still tight. all is good. No leaks and everything operates as it should.

 

Hey, Folks.

I updated the OP with details and pics from the hard line method.

We'll call this one done ( ) unless folks come up with some new or better ideas.

 

Those are some nice clean bends from @Vitalzone... he could totally sell me a pre-bent kit if he wanted to.

 

Good idea!

If anyone wants to monetize this mod, please let me know. I would be happy link up any and all options in the OP.