MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

It doesn't take much at all to break the vacuum in the original design. That said, there is a ton of meat there to hack at. Have no fear.


That said though, some folks have not noticed a change. Just people being people. The upside there is that no harm was done.

 

Unfortunate. I wish there was way to get this stupid clutch to bite earlier and more consistently.

 

The engagement point does not change with the ADM. It should feel the same as before, just with consistency and an action that follows your foot.

Note that the stock setup has very little feel, so consistency and muscle memory is what makes this setup work.

Sorry that it didn't work out for you.

 

FJ pedal swap may be another interesting one to consider. It’s on my list someday.

 

What’s funny is on my first test drive I think I had a bit of air in the system because the clutch was engaging almost instantly on release of the pedal. I mistakenly thought this was due to the ADM. I actually preferred that feeling.

 

Yes. BTDT. The engage point with some air is in a better spot. That said, once that air works its way out, the actual mod should feel better.

It does suck that there are no real adjustments with our setup.

 

SAME! @Firn ’s disk FTMFW! It's easy! It works! MADE IN AMERICA. What else do you need to know?

 

Does it masturbate your dog?

Inquiring minds and all...

 

What I need to know is how, specifically, it differs from stock? I hacked my accumulator and I feel zero difference.

 

Sorry - Is something wrong with the master cylinder adjustment? It was definitely adjustable on my 2nd gen. You can put the friction point wherever you want. Just get down there and twist the thing and move your friction point wherever you want. No total system disassembly or bleeding required.

Here's a thread discussing it: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-height-adjustment.610495/

 

Mind blown. All this time I’ve been told we have no adjustable engagement point. Well I know what I’ll be doing today.

My question now is how to know when adjustment of the pedal is crossing the barrier between clutch engagement and disengagement. I don’t want to adjust it too much where I am driving around with constant pressure on it.

 

Typically you still avoid letting the pushrod and pedal make contact at rest, so as long as there's freeplay in the pedal before it contacts the pushrod, I imagine you wouldn't have to worry about the clutch being constantly engaged. There are links to the service manual here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-diy-maintenance-quick-reference.406712/



Page 1882 has the clutch pedal adjustment. You'll see it not only specifies the freeplay range but also the pedal height from floor range. As long as you generally obey those I would imagine there's no risk of leaving the clutch permanently engaged.

 

So When I first drove the truck immediately after bleeding it, I too felt the "two stage" of the clutch pedal. I went away after a single day of driving, likely due to a bit of air in the line. I gravity bled, then had a partner pump the clutch while I bled.

To me, the clutch feels like it engages much closer to the firewall when depressed, and the window of engagement has gotten narrower. It feels the same everytime now too. I can more easily hit the rpms between 1st and 2nd gear, eliminating the soggy transition and bucking that happens when you feather the gas into second gear.

 

I Used the disk, which has a huge gallery in the design, if your channel looked narrow, then this might be the ultimate cause of "no/little effect." I would suggest you mill it out wider/deeper or just get the disk.

 

Just did this today. I made the channel A LOT wider and deeper than I initially had it. Still not much a difference to me.

 

Thanks. I got under the dash to take a look at it. How in the world do you loosen that lock nut on the pushrod? I can barely get my hand behind the pedal much less two wrenches...

 

Yeah..... I need to re adjust mine. Too much take up in it. (mechanic owned, and all that)

 

I really don't want to comment about this, but I think it has to be said.

I'd love to explain it in detail, but I think you folks will eventually find out that there is no significant adjustment for our clutch.

In simple terms, you can attempt to lower the pedal height, but it will reduce throw. The situation is identical to lifts for our IFS. There is a set amount to give and no more.

Take that as you will.

 

Asshole!

 

Two months in.

ADM + OTT + URD STS makes the truck drive utterly different in a positive way.