MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Was that the readers digest version?

 

Show us a pic of the beer fridge knob...I'll give ya a pass,

 

Shifting Beers? Hell yeah!

 

Now I'm just trying to decipher the hand shadow puppet you're making on the fridge

Some kind of Transformer hound think...I dunno

 

Veloci-beer-sucker?


A west facing garage in the summer has its least fun moments.

 

My problem is the first little bit of pedal movement has next to no pressure on it. Other than the spring holding the pedal up. It feels like take up in a mil-spec trigger. Definitely do not feel this in customer's vehicles.

I also haven't really significantly played with it since I did the hardline mod years ago after finding this threat.

 

It never hurts to take a look and check things out. It should feel connected the entire stroke.

I was just saying that the engage point and at rest position does has minimal adjustment, without affecting the function.

 

Might get a chance to look at it today.

 

Comparing it trigger slack. Great analogy.

Let me know how you adjust it. Stubby wrenches seem like the only way.

 

Standard 8mm and 9mm or 9mm and 10mm was all that I used. Shove the seat as far back as it will go and wedge yourself in there.

Verify with a hot driveline that there is a scosche of take up on the pedal before the master cylinder shaft moves.

 

Didn't get to yesterday but that truck goes under the wrench next week for maintenance before big off-road event so I'll look at it then. Got the kiddo this weekend so probably won't be doing much in that regard lol

 

Add me to the list, I took the Dremel method. Didn't clamp the line from the reservoir good enough dumped all the fluid and still had no issue bleeding the system. It's much better now, no more pulsing when easing off the clutch I'm very happy.

 

i did this mod a long time ago and to be honest didnt feel that much of a difference, but i had a buddy help and we just gravity bled the system only and I'm thinking that there might be some air that is causing things to still feel inconsistent... so because I'm dumb, can anyone post step by step how to re-bleed things on my own to get as much air out as possible?

 

If it was longer than a week or so and the engagement point is at approximately the middle of the travel, then I don't think you have an air issue.

A couple times, I had air in there, the clutch was soft, and the engage point was near the end of the travel. Within a few drives, it self-bled and was back to normal.

 

@tonered i was going to post in separate reply but now that you mention it, i did this mod over a year ago, and no the engagement for me is almost at the top of the pedal and its super annoying.

i did a bunch of suspension work and this back to back over a couple weekends and kinda got burnt out so i'm only just now revisiting the idea that something isnt right

 

The top of the travel would mean that there is absolutely no air in the system. The 3rd Gen engage point is further out than a lot of folks would like, including me. Normally, an easy fix would be some type of adjustment or a different size master or slave cylinder. Unfortunately, we do not have either of those. I'm not sure if the 2nd Gen stuff is different, but I do know that you do not want their fiber reinforced nylon MC.

 

I didn’t notice a big difference either. I think some accumulators may be worse than others from the factory. Mine never gave much problem in stock form, and the modified version wasn’t much different other than a little more “springy” feel.

 

well shit. thats the opposite of news that i'd hoped for.

i just drove my dads new Corvette this weekend and, like every other stick ive driven, the engagement was in the lower half of the pedal, which feels far more natural.

i guess i just need to stop feeling the need to push the clutch all the way in when rowing between gears, and only depress it like 1/3 the way, which no doubt would be faster and maybe smoother shifting if I could get used to it, but hell at this point i've had this truck since 2018 and its just not the way I'm used to driving.

 

Sorry for the bad news.


You can certainly not push the clutch the whole way in, but with the heavier driveline parts, lash through all those parts, and other things like aging MT fluid, the speed of shifting is not fast. For me, I find that the using the whole stroke generally aids to time the shifts.

 

gotcha. well thanks for the input i appreciate it.

i just bought the Core shifter, and plan to replace the fluid soon (im over due at like 45k miles right now since last change)...so maybe those will help some.