MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

From what is said, the Core should help with feel. Fluid seems to age out at 40k or so for me. I am due myself.

 

40-50 is the natural range but of course there will be variance is based on climate and usage. Sounds like you guys are on top of things

I noticed with heavy off-roading this past weekend at ATR, in some crawler sections, it was actually easier to leave the trucking gear and have the clutch on the floor and barely bring it up. And as it started to engage, use that as my defacto crawl function while riding the brake say going downhill over a very steep drop or a rock. Works much better than only using brakes and neutral and prevent stall outs or drop offs when fully engaged in first.

 

I took off from work today, tomorrow and Monday in order to have a 5-day break so I could do some stuff on my truck, jeep, and clean my horribly cluttered garage. I finished up what I wanted to do in the garage for the day, so out of boredom I started looking into finally installing the FJ clutch pedal that I bought all the parts for from @Grossomotto back in April.

Unfortunately for me, I share a house with my brother. When I received all the parts, I opened them up and set them out to make sure I had everything I needed. I got sidetracked and never put them back up. My brother, in an attempt to clean that area while I was gone, cleaned up trash and threw the parts back in the box. A few of the very small parts must have been overlooked as part of trash cleanup because they ain’t in the box. I got all the way down to the pedal swapping itself and realized a few key parts for the clevis were missing. Working on ordering those and then I’ll finally complete the swap again.

I removed the lower steering column trim panel and then removed the main body ECU. All the horrible experiences @ShirtTucker had were not experienced by doing it that way. It added some steps, but ultimately I think it was easier than trying to lay on the floor and undo all the nuts and bolts blindly. I literally had a straight shot to everything with the MBECU out of the way.

Will write up a formal thread when it’s all done! Bummer I wasted the day but at least I learned how it goes on a practice run.

 

Guys,

I have a guy that is going to be doing this for me this weekend. I have the braided line already. What are the sizes of the other parts needed?

Parts:
Clutch line

$35 HNCL-20 Techna-Fit Stainless Steel Clutch Line Kit for 2000-2003 HONDA S2000 - HNCL-20

HNCL-20 - Got it
Banjo Fitting
Banjo Bolt
Crush Washers
P-Clamp with Rubber Sleeving

 

Just got my truck back. Damn, it so much better. No more jerkyness or delay. Everyone that has a MT need to have this mod done.

 

As promised - my how-to for the metal clutch pedal swap. I love the results

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-one-from-an-fj-cruiser.814720/#post-29219573

 

@BLtheP
Does the pedal/MC swap help to do anything regarding the engagement point of the clutch?

 

Nah, doesn’t really change. The new pedal uses almost an identical master cylinder as before. Pretty sure they are the exact same master cylinder, just one of them has a very slightly longer pushrod than the other. I imagine the internals are 100% identical.

I do think the pedal height could be adjusted downward to where it’s even with the brake pedal that might make the truck feel more normal. And in doing that, you’d have to adjust the clevis down on the MC a bit to match, which would bring the engagement point a bit closer to the floor. I’m pretty sure there would still be more than plenty clutch release with the shortened distance from floor to engagement.

I’m guessing you want the engagement sooner?

the adjustments I’m talking about could be made on both stock and FJ pedals though. Cruise control switch controls the pedal height when pedal is fully out, adjusting the clevis on the pushrod affects the engagement. If you adjusted the cruise switch to stop the pedal sooner, you’d need to correspondingly adjust the MC clevis in a bit so that the lower pedal isn’t pushing the clutch in at rest. Doing that would shorten the travel but I think there would still be plenty travel to properly release the clutch.

 

What parts did you end up needing? Thinking of ordering these and doing it myself.

 

all that was needed was the clutch line. it came with the washers and correct threaded banjo bolt.

 

not trying to dredge up the past and derail this thread by getting too off topic..but seeing as alot of you guys are tuned as well, what is the consensus on vF Tuner's last facebook post? Seems like it's an ultimatum: upgrade to WiFlash or else be stuck with version 1.7.5 forever moving forward.

He is offering an exchange to those having an existing kit (including the case and all) for $100. I am considering just to have a standalone device serve as the registered key rather than my 15 year old laptop that it likely to not turn on next time I flash (or turn off while flashing, lol)

 

The flash process has not changed, so there is no need to update beyond the current software or hardware.

Beyond that, the license is NOT tied to your computer. It is tied to the Tactrix serial number, if you have a VF orange one. If you do, you can DL the vF software on any machine, plug in the Tactrix, and install the software. That will not change in the future, but note that vF has said that he is killing the function of all older versions of the software. So, you do need to update to the latest.

Note that the new device does not support TechStream or the J2534 or other protocols, yet. vF noted that not conforming to these protocols allows him to speed up the flash process. IMHO, the process is pretty darn quick?

 

I guess im still holding out hope for eventually getting additional MT tables/ the "ultimate" tune options. so, if that were to be added in the future, I would be able to utilize without upgrading to WiFlash?

edited since i dont know what im talking about with DFCO

 

I was told that there is no development on the 3rd Gens at the moment, unfortunately.

New developments, esp flashing up tunes, should not be impacted by whichever device is used.

 

Correct. Find your local OTT or KDMax bois and have at it.

 

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Get tuned before some weenie doesn't upgrade and looses support lol

 

Has anyone noticed any negative effects of ADM?

I was going to take the truck in to a mechanic to install this (lack of free time and lack of 2nd pair of legs to bleed the clutch), but upon conversation with that mechanic his opinion was that accumulator removal might cause excessive wear on the clutch or not allow full disengagement. His comment was that "if you don't like where the clutch engages we can just bleed the clutch and change the engagement point". I'm sceptical of that being the final solution because the problem isn't necessarily the placement of the engagement zone, but its abruptness and that the zone is very narrow.

 

Long as you aren't riding the clutch, it's fine

 

There is no change in disengagement. That is solely based on master cylinder diameter compared to slave cylinder diameter.

All things being equal, you will get less wear as the accumulator is no longer slowing engagement.

Bleeding is just bleeding. If you had air in your lines, you would definitely know it. Beyond that, the Taco clutch self bleeds pretty effectively.

There is next to no adjustment of the engagement point. For the 3rd Gen, it is just most of the way out. I think we all wish it was more toward the middle.