MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

No matter how much you bleed it, the pedal will not return on it's own the very first time after closing the bleeder, so having to pump it a couple times after closing for it to feel and return properly is normal

 

A bled clutch will never return. Nature of the beast.

 

No, it won’t ever return itself after a bleed.

The reason is because the return spring actually works in two ways, at a certain point it helps push the pedal to the floor, and when the pedal is coming back up there comes a point where the spring pulls it back up. Since the spring actually pushes the pedal towards the floor when the pedal gets closer to the floor, the way the pedal returns is based on the clutch itself pushing the pedal back up. Since you did a bleed per stroke, the bleed itself caused you to not disengage the clutch disc at all, so there is nothing to push the pedal back up until you start a new pedal stroke cycle after closing the bleed port.

 

This is the best explanation I’ve come across and I’ve been Web MDing my symptoms.


I’m a bike mechanic and work with hydro lines a lot. Everything pointed to being fine, but the interweb is split with the return or no return.

thanks

 

Finally took the time to do this today. I installed @Firn's delete disk. Thanks @Firn and everyone else who answered my questions beforehand. I wanted to mention a couple things I learned along the way.

• Removing the support bracket attached to the exhaust gave me a lot more room to work, and removing it was the only way I was able to reconnect the difficult 4th bolt on the shield when I was done. It was a bit difficult to remove, but it made access to the upper hydraulic connection much easier. To remove the upper bolts from the bracket, I used an open-end wrench with a length of pipe slid over it to get some extra leverage.

• As others have said, clamping off the line in front of the firewall really helped with fluid loss - before bleeding, I only lost a negligible amount of fluid at the accumulator connections. Just make sure you clamp it off with something smooth so it doesn't damage the line. I used needle-nose vise grips with a couple pieces of scrap rubber to protect the line

• Reconnecting the hydraulic lines to the accumulator proved difficult for me, but I eventually got it. Take your time with these and make sure you get the threads started by hand - this is not something you want to cross thread. Also, if you reconnect these lines first before reinstalling the 3 bolts holding the accumulator body, this will give you a little more wiggle room to get the correct angle.

Here are some more pics I took along the way.









Haven't driven much yet, just a quick test drive around the block. Initial impressions are that it was certainly worth it, engagement point feels a lot less sloppy than before.

Thanks again everyone for all the pointers.

 

Has anyone here done the disc mod on a FJ Cruiser? I don’t think the accumulator is any different than the Tacoma part. #31490-60151 is what is on my 2007 FJ.

 

I believe it should work. As you said, it uses the exact same accumulator, it should work.

 

My Firn Original disc showed up in the mail yesterday. Looks nice. Hopefully get a chance to install it soon.

 

Does anyone have experience with going with the cheapo ORiley ACM with the parts listed in the original post and the Firn Disc?

Don't get me wrong, the firn disc definitely looks like a quality piece, but I also am wondering if the ORiley special has more benefit due to it being a direct line to the clutch slave.

 

@Firn, do you have discs available? I sent you a PM.

 

That’s how I did it forever ago. If I did it again, I would probably do the disk. It’s easier and you don’t have to fight with trying to get the lines to line up and seal (mines been fine for over 100k now)

 

Go the free route and Dremel a channel in your accumulator like I did.

 

Damn Tone! You got me. I thought I was in a two stroke modders thread

 

Get that compression up!

Hahaha!

 

Sorry for the delay. Yes I do, I sent you a pm

 

I was under the impression that the 2nd gen also has this accumulator. I crawled under my truck to Kroil all the lines and fittings and I don’t see this piece.

 

I wondering the same, and my trusted local mechanic cautioned against messing with it for other reasons, but was cool with doing it when he could fit it in conveniently. From my reading, the only way it causes problems that the accumulator could help prevent with is if you pop the clutch (contextually, pop means suddenly and abruptly take your foot off the clutch, i think, usually causing bucking stalling).
Other things it might reduce stress on sound like they are not a real world problem unless you’re near redlining to maximize torque while operating the clutch, something i never do, but maybe would factor in for some off roading or tough spot situations where torque is maxed out. I still don’t completely understand this, just my takeway of various articles on accumulators.
Edit: Also, your mechanics offer to bleed it or change the engagement point sounds nonsensical, like a false bs story - i don’t think the parts of the system work that way. Even as someone who doesn’t want to do this myself, either the mechanic thinks you’re dumb enough to fall for it, who knows what he would actually change, or he has a poor understanding himself - it reminds me of anecdotes of getting into technical issues in construction, ladies get these types of made up false “explanations” from contractors more often than dudes.

 

2.7 w 5MT doesn’t have one or at least not on my ‘05.

 

Great pictures, starting to think of doing myself instead of giving to mechanic; best video i found was
https://youtu.be/QCYYV2y_38I? He does the line/new tube, instead of a bypassed accumulator, but it’s a better view/explanation of the actual process than most others have posted, though i don’t think he pinched the lines to save fluid. I plan to use a dremeled replacement combined with the disc cause i’m not sure if i dremeled deep enough. I also got enough toyota dot3 fluid from local dealer to completely refill the reservoir.