MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

May have been discussed previously but is there a fluid upgrade that fixes cold weather pedal stick or with the accumulator delete itself fix the issue? Just got my disk in the mail from @Firn so would be a good time to change fluid types.

 

That Mityvac tool has been surprisingly useful for all sorts of things. Definitely one of those tools that has made some jobs a complete piece of cake

 

Nope. DOT 4 is what it calls for.

 

You have to use Dot 4 fluid. I think you're talking about the dot 4 LV fluids. You can use them and they say it helps in cold weather. Pentosin and motul are good ones.

 

Yes that is what I was asking to clarify. Any brand of fluid that is better than OEM in cold weather.

 

Regular Dot 4 is generally the same as any other regular Dot 4, I don't think you will find any significant difference between one or another. It's been a while since I looked but I think the viscosity were all very close to one another

Dot 4 Low Viscosity (LV) however is specifically designed to have a lower (less thick) viscosity in cold weather and offers some improvements. Roughly speaking Pentosin Dot 4 LV has about half the (numerical) viscosity at all temps. That may sound scary for hot temps but it shouldn't be, it essentially goes from a viscosity of 2 down to 1, which is MUCH MUCH less of a difference than say a 40 degree temp swing.

Bottom line, if you live in a hot climate there is little need to swap fluids. But if you live in a cool or cold climate the LV fluid is better and should not cause any issues

Fwiw, LV brake fluid was designed specifically to improve ABS performance in cold weather. We are essentially using it for its intended purpose, better performance in fluid passages in cold weather.

 

Yeah I was considering going LV. I’m in West TN area where we have near 100° summers and 20° winters some years.

 

Definitely agree. As far as I'm concerned, this tool paid for itself the first time I used it.

Since the Taco does not have a screw-on cap on the brake fluid reservoir (thanks, Toyota!) I'm also going to use the vacuum bleeder (instead of my pressure bleeder) next year for completing a brake fluid flush.

 

There are Racing DoT4s. I don't recommend those for long term use. Much higher dry and wet boiling points.

 

TN isn't cold enough to warrant LV fluid.

But it won't hurt to use.

Toyotas double seals are superior to screw on caps. In fact, ask any tech from any other manufacturer... Honda might be the only ones who reservoir caps seal as well as Toyotas.

 

I would not worry about 20 degrees. That said LV fluid won't hurt at all and can only make the disk work better.

 

Thanks I’ll pick up some LV dot 4 to when I do the disk.

 

Just finished the install. I think I may have lost some of the feel of the accumulator delete alone by lubing the pedal/plunger at the same time. Clutch just feels super smooth and well, as a clutch should.

 

Has anyone noticed their DOT fluid getting dark? I believe it may be due to the disc?

Anyone else in the same boat?

 

Probably is a reaction to the brass but shouldn’t hurt anything that I know of.

 

Right. Ph test kits are cheap, if anyone is worried about it.

 

After a few days of driving to work really not thinking about the delete. I’ve got to say this is a worth it mod. My clutch feels so much smoother, engages right off the floor and very even modulation. Also so far seems to fix the hard to get in first gear as you roll to a stop issue - my buddies newer Corolla does the same thing so I don’t think it’s just my truck.

 

This is what I think as well. just wanted to gauge the room to see if anyone else here is experiencing this with their disc

 

So, I've done the delete mod with a prefab brake line and the disc from Firn and I'm curious on others experience with either of these methods.

I wouldn't say one is 'better' than the other because both achieve the goal of proper clutch engagement but the feel in the clutch pedal is entirely different.

With the brake line method, the clutch engagement is at about the same point as stock and the pedal has a constant linear pressure when both pressing and depressing the pedal. I still don't feel the engagement in the pedal a ton but it's at the same point every time now.

With the disc method, the clutch engagement is lower in the pedal stroke when depressing and has a very light pedal feel for about the first half when pressing the pedal and then stiffens up as the clutch disengages. It kind of reminds me of a clutch in a Civic (but that was years ago that I drove that...)

In my primitive understanding of fluid dynamics, it makes sense that each of these methods would produce a different feel. I just wasn't expecting that big of a difference. It kind of make me want to get another accumulator and try the dremel mod both with and without the disc.

Also, the way the disc method feels in the pedal makes me want a short throw...

 

Which method did you do first and did you just change it to the second method today?