MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Nice work!

5.29s on an MT? Geez!

Are you on 37s?

The downshifting with the ADM is epic for me also.

Hahaha! I agree. Great pics.

Gimme the PDF and I'll post it.

 

I’m on 35s, the 5.29s are awesome. You get to 6th gear at 60mph and can hold 6th uphills all day long. Acceleration feels like it should now. I’m really happy with the gearing. First gear disappears pretty quick but second starts pulling right away. About 75 your at about 3krpm so if you plan on going 80 for 50% of your commute you probably would want 4.88, unless your on 33+ tires with bunch of add on weight.

 

I will have a PDF to you shortly!

 

Cool!

And, duh! You're on 35s.

#readingishard

 

Hey, Folks.

I updated the 1st Post with @sherwoods_Fleet 's excellent instructions.

Enjoy!

 

10 months later...where were yah on that one huh?!.

 

Hey! I had install info and pics as soon as I dropped mine in.

@sherwoods_Fleet 's is just a lot nicer!

 

Dood, he PDF'd it! You need to up your game.

 

I mine!

 

CHEERS!

 

My pleasure.

 

Hey guy's, I'm going to autozone to buy the parts listed in the pdf file.
I have a few questions first.

1: based off the pdf, when I'm ready to add fluid back to the system. After closing the bleeder and topping off is that enough or do I need a second pair of hands to bleed the system? Past experience says 2 people but write up sounds like 1man job..

2: rough estimated job time? Debating doing after work in the shop.

3: any tips, tricks, or hints I should know not listed in the pdf?

Thanks guys

 

If you do the gravity bleed, that sounds like a one man job. I did the traditional way with my daughter working the pedal. That took no time at all.


If forming your own hard line with something near by (like a SS tumbler or whatever) ready to go, it should be no more than 1hr.


I will always say to connect the upper fitting first to let the new section self fill with fluid.

 

+1 to this.

You might also consider Speed Bleeders, which make bleeding brakes and clutch a quicker/easier, one-man job.

 

I always wanted to grab a couple of those.

I guess it should be said that I have heard of a couple folks having good luck using a vacuum bleeder on a hydraulic clutch. I tried twice and failed miserably with a couple hours of careful work to build pressure again and have heard of others that had the same experience.

 

I installed mine last year, using them to bleed brakes and clutch following install and the clutch, again, when I recently deleted the accumulator. So far, I've found them reliable and easy to use.

One report I read warned about possible fouling/corrosion of the internal valves if you run without rubber caps. I went with the stainless version and make sure they're all capped when not in use.

 

Hear you there. Capped is key for valves of any kind.

About as far as I got was banjo bleeders on my bike masters. That makes life way better, esp if any air gets in. It is too bad that we can't use those on the Taco clutch master.

 

If you follow my pdf of what I did opening the bleeder process, I never added any fluids because I didn’t loose enough fluid to matter. I’ve hit 500miles after doing the mod and never adding any fluid and it shifts perfectly fine. You should be able to do it alone as I did.

The whole job took me 30minutes and that’s with taking pictures for the pdf.

 

Awesome!! What did you do for pinching off the line? Vise grips?

I picked up the parts today. Just gotta wait till work since H.O.A. are a bunch of d-bags and dont allow working on vehicles.

 

I couldn’t find vice grips, best thing I could find was some kind of clamp from homedepot I had lol. If you use vice grips try to have something soft like a small rag wrapped around the hose just to help prevent any of the teeth on the grips from puncturing the hose if you happen to clamp it to hard.