MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Zoics! I guess you could use that for other projects?

A bit better option, IMHO:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...dm-and-bs-thread.568303/page-51#post-20859234

Also, right around that post, someone posted some actual non-marring tools made for pinching off flex lines.

 

Awesome!
Yell it for the people in the back!

 

Well I finally did this today. Here are some thoughts:

• Took a friend and I about 3 hours but this was working very slowly on a 100deg day and while drinking about 6 beers.
• We could not and did not remove the o2 sensor. It just would not budge and we all but rounded the nut off trying. So we worked around it, no big deal.
• Bleeding was easy. Another member on this thread posted this method: put pan down below slave cylinder, open bleed screw, remove line clamp, let gravity drain for five to ten minutes while topping off resevoir, then one of us crawled under and close the bleed screw as it was continually draining while the other made sure the reservoir was topped off. No issues at all.
• Only really annoying part was actually installing the hard line bypass. But even this just took about ten minutes and some cussing.

Overall I’m very happy. The best way I can describe the result is that the clutch just feels a lot more predictable. But definitely a difference and a good one.

Thanks to all here

 

Hey guys,quick question. I am a bit confused when it comes to the pedal free play adjustment that many of you recommend after doing the ADM.

I think the clutch engagement point on my pedal is a bit too far off the floor for me, and I am noticing it more after the ADM although I dont believe the ADM actually affected it at all. I would like to have the engagement closer to the floorboard.

Does adjusting the pedal free play rod have this effect or is that something else entirely? I noticed all the warnings in the thread about not performing it if you are unsure of what you're doing. I never know what I'm doing but I usually figure it out. Is it really that risky to mess with?

Thank you.

 

Personally i never go to the floor with my pedal. I just go right past where the clutch releases...I would guess if you adjust your foot pedal you would end up with your throw out bearing swirling on the clutch release fingers ALL the time, and you dont want that. If you press your clutch pedal a little bit you will feel the swirling im talking about. It will wear out the bearing and the fingers sooner. I have not seen this mod you speak of yet but i couldnt see how it could effect your clutch release position any, only make it where you dont have a bit of play at the top end of the pedal before hitting the clutch fingers with the throw out bearing. maybe someone can chime in with more knowledge then me and teach us something!

 

LoL! You're posting in the ADM thread. Check out the 1st Post.

The engage point should not change after the mod. The path isn't changed much at all and the master and slave cylinders are not touched other than bleeding.

The odd part is the engage point moving close to the top of travel. Usually with air in the system, the engage point would move closer to the floor.

 

Haha yeah I know that! I meant the mod where people are adjusting their foot pedal rod

 

Ah!

I think that was posted in here somewhere. Just the relevant pages out of the 3rd Gen Service Manual that is circulating around.

 

Bought mine and havent done it yet. Im hesitating because of the bleeding process on the slave cylinder. I bled a slave cyl. once and it was alright, but a pain none the less. Curious though, has any one pinched the M.C. line, installed the hard tubing and then released the flex line to fill the tubing before threading it on? I havent looked under the truck so excuse me if its not possible due to the orientation of parts, just thinking out loud before I get under there.

 

In the PDF instructions at the bottom post #1, it's almost that course of action. Basically connect the lines. Crack the bleeder, open the clamp, go back under and tighten the bleeder. There are other methods, but that one seemed to work for @sherwoods_Fleet

 

Worked for me as well no issues

 

Cool. Im getting tired of releasing the clutch entirely in first, applying throttle and feeling the delay for the fraction of a second. Its like a slight disconnect, my foots off the pedal but it feels like its still lifting.

 

Got it done in the heat today! And I must say what a difference! I'm pretty sure I got a little air in the system tho but with no one left at work it's fine till Monday.

I will take a picture of what was different on my 2018 offroad vs. Pdf file for the next guy.

 

Nice!

Some folks have said that the air can work itself out with some miles and such.

Enjoy it!

 

I've been watching this for a while, wondering if some of the odd things my truck/clutch did were caused by this accumulator thing. Finally got around to removing mine last weekend and after a week of driving daily I'm so glad I removed it, truck drives much nicer/smoother now. Should have done this sooner.

 

So many of the weird things this truck does are caused by this pos

 

Dood, just drive the air bubble out of it...it'll burp on its own

 

I'm just driving around now and things got much better!

Here's what the 2018 offroad looks like and I'm holding the hose that needs clampped off.

 

This is a must-do mod for the manual transmission!

After ordering the part from Trident earlier this year, I finally got this mod done recently and am delighted to have a real stick shift back! All I can say is that it is awesome to get the fractions of a second back on each shift. Furthermore, it doesn't feel like I am burning the clutch when the accumulator wouldn't grab. Also, no more "glunk" sounding shifts either.

The only issue during the installation was that the part was not a size match so I ended up bending it in different ways to line up the connections. After that, the heat shield wouldn't fit so I left it off, but it doesn't seem necessary anyways.

 

I have a mod kit available I got from @Trident904 and never got around to install. PM me if interested. I’ll let it go for the same I paid, $25 + shipping.