MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

The problem with making a block is that there are press fit brass seats. Making two of those with precision and the block would end up being more expensive than the other methods.

Of course, if you have another thought on that, feel free to go for it.


On the dremel mod, folks like @M1Awolf have done it in about 10min with a vehicle lift. I had mine apart for at least 90min messing with that brake line elbow and had no issues bleeding the clutch. Having a cast off would definitely speed it up, but I think you would be in good shape with your existing part?

 

If anyone is willing to part with their old take-off I would still like to give it a look.

 

Would anyone like to tell me the size of the brass fitting you use to connect the two lines together? Like whats the thread pitch?

 

if you want to pay shipping I send it.

 

First post...

 

Hey everyone, I'd like to try to do the ADM tonight. I'm pretty confident with a dremel so I think I want to go the stealth route and hack my accumulator.
I just need some dot 3 fluid for when I bleed the clutch right? Any other tips? I'm trying to keep it looking factory in case of warranty work. I know y'all get tired of answering the same thing over and over I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Thanks!

 

Yep. If you clamp the feed line to the master, you will probably not lose enough to notice. Have some brake cleaner or compressed air on hand to clean out the shavings.

You'll also want a 10mm line wrench. Don't use a standard box end.

 

Just make sure you clean it out REALLY well. You don't want any of the metal chips floating around in there after you reassemble.

 

I will pick up a 10mm line wrench. I appreciate the quick responses! I will also clean thoroughly with compressor and brake cleaner before reassembly. I hope it's not too big of a pain in the rear. Thanks!!!

 

Nah. It is easy.

Reconnect the upper fitting first. With the drips that you will be getting out of the upper line, it will help purge the air down the line instead of letting it bubble upward.

 

So i did it! I didnt know where to clamp the metal line.... So i emptied the accumulator lines all over the car port. I already love how it shifts and im im pre certain i have air in the lines. Anyone have a good clutch bleeding video?

Last question, i found a little weird black floating thing either on my clutch reservoir or cap. Is it supposed to be there?

 

Yeah it’s supposed to be there floating

 

Yes the cap is supposed to be in the reservoir.

Not sure if they are supposed to seal the bottom of you run out of fluid, or if it for visibility of the fluid level.

As for the air, keep purging. Remember you have to get the air out of that stupid block diaphragm thing Toyota installed

 

The clamp location was shown in the 1st Post, on the rubber feed line near the reservoir.

You'll have to check YouTube for a video. The problem is that clutches are a pita to build pressure and don't self return. So, you will be doing a lot of hand pumping to build a bit of pressure, bleed, and repeat. It could take a lot of repeats to get the air out.

The black disk is found in some reservoirs and does belong in there.

 

Thanks everyone! Ill go back to bleeding when its its cooled off and put the black thing back in the reservoir. I wonder what it does.

 

Pump, pump, pump, pump, pump, pump . . .



Regardless of trouble sometimes, worth it!

 

I'm excited about getting the clutch right and maybe getting a tune on my truck this week. I hope it drives more how I had hoped my new Taco would drive. Per the usual, thanks for all the good information!

 

In case someone already hasn't stated it before, the accumulators for 2nd gen and 3rd are different, although probably act the exact same. 2nd gen (2005-2015) is PN 31490-60151, 3rd gen (2016+) is 31490-35100. These look similar from 10 feet, but notice the port locations.

2nd Gen

3rd Gen

They appear that they are the same casting but different drilled port locations but I can't be sure without comparing both. I went about trying to find a bolt-in replacement for these before knowing this. The donor piece I was looking at was a 2nd gen accumulator and I have 3rd gen truck. Does anyone have a 3rd gen accumulator that they would like to send me for me to double-check measurements? I'll pay shipping.

A bolt-in replaceable piece appears doable with an aluminum piece and brass inserts for under $100 as a direct bolt-in delete option. I even added some additional milled area to make it look closer to the original part: