MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Fuckin' clutch assemblies man. I'll tell you what.

 

My clutch makes a racket when its cold. Still going strong at 108k miles though.

 

Mine seems more quiet when cold, and gets noisy and rattily when warm.

i don't get it. and i gave up. Unless the clutch engagement changes, or the tranny falls out, i don't care lol.

URD Stage 2 clutch, pressure plate and URD heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, ADM. 5k miles in on those bits - 90k in total

Also running a custom vftune which probably doesn't help anything

 

Yeah, so I just got done reading all 97 pages. I think that I'm going with the dremel method. I am well out of warranty on my '07 (years, not miles- only 65k on it).

It was sort of alluded to but never followed up on- machining a disk to replace the metal disk and c-spacer inside of the accumulator. It would need to have a recess or dished out area but would pop right in, look stock and perform the same function. The cost would be more than @$20 in parts for the hard/soft line methods and not free like the dremel method though. The question is, if some people (for their own reasons) want to purchase a "kit" type setup, that would be reversible, can it be done for cheaper than the $50-$80 range kit that was being sold here?

Hell, if you're good enough at milling, you could put the recess on both sides, to make it idiot proof. You could see that happening, right? Someone putting it in backwards, then having a hissy-fit when their clutch doesn't work at all.

 

i find any effort to preserve the accumulator or reversibility totally .

it helps nothing. just bypass it.

 

There is no denying that some Tacoma drivers would prefer "stock looking" or reversibility.

And, if someone said $30 shipped for this disk, just pop it in, yeah, I might do it, just for being lazy.

 

The problem that might be found is the amount of space available and leaks? The square seal ring is both a seal and a spring that activates the accumulator function.

Milling disks to get enough flow could be done, but there is a ton of existing meat in the accumulator body.

In fact, I got an accumulator that I intend to dremel and swap in since I am getting less thrilled with the thoughts of my safety wire on the brake line elbow.

Thanks, @Shellshock !

 

So with the dremel mod, does the flex of the disk have any affect on the feeling of the clutch? Is that one reason that the other methods are better?

 

It cannot as the fluid will always take the path of least resistance. The pressure drop in the new channel is negligible versus the need to build pressure to flex the disk and restrict flow.

The hard line and dremel are my favs after all this time seeing what has been posted. Trident is no longer making bespoke kits, so there is the 12in premade straight sections that can be bought at most any autoparts store.

The dremel is quick and free.

 

So you think that the flex of the disk will have a negligible drop in pressure?
I get that it will be able to go straight through the groove, but won't there still be pressure that pushes out on the disk, that results in a slight delay?

 

Once a channel is made, the disk will never move again as no negative pressure can develop. The flow can no longer be restricted while engaging the clutch.

 

Would the accumulator have an effect on the clutch, even after it is mostly engaged?
Sometimes when I feel the clutch bite and let off the pedal the rest of the way, there is a clunk, as if I dumped the clutch.
Is this a symptom of the accumulator? I though it was designed to reduce the speed of engagement, however it seems like it dumps the clutch if I don't baby it all the way.

 

Yes. The friction zone is larger than you actually feel, esp with as little feel as we get with this particular clutch. The accumulator can only smooth out so much. It's main purpose is to prevent dangerous shock loading. That last little bit of dump that you are doing is the accumulator doing what it can.

It will feel much more natural and direct with the ADM.

 

Yeah, I'm not actually dumping the clutch, I'm pretty smooth. It is just crazy that it feels like its doing the opposite of what it was designed to do.
It almost slows down before the friction point and then speeds up right after

 

Yes. It is just a wonky device that needs to go. I had problems any time that I changed the speed of my engagement and would get a jerky shift. That is all gone with the ADM.

 

On another note, I had a weird situation where I 'resumed' cruise control (push up on the stalk) and had the same thunk. Hope I don't have play in the transmission, driveline, or diff. It was already in gear with the clutch out all the way. I had to do with the computer hitting the gas and there was some slack somewhere.

 

Depending, there is lash in the driveline. It is not uncommon and is talked about quite a bit. It is not a serious worry though.

 

just did this, super easy.
It's been a while since I've worked under a stock vehicle, amazed at how much room is under there.
anyone complaining about not getting their hands or tools to fit under there haven't worked under engine swapped vehicles enough!

 

As for actual shifting and maybe a bit off topic - but rated high in my "feels" was swapping out the factory fill MT fluid. Don't get me wrong the ADM gave me my clutch.......but after 7-8K mile I was getting a crunchy shift (uggh!!!), hot or cold..........new fluid, nearly butta.

 

^ Which brand?