Mid Travel BS 2.0

I would recommend against the BAMF shock relocation on a 1st gen.

1st step of mounting shocks should be to get the upper mount as high as possible. Making your own crossmember is cheaper, not that difficult, and you can get the mounts much higher than the BAMF kit. Also don't have to angle the shocks back so far.

 

This is really good info. Is there any other kits out there? Unfortunately I can't weld but I can possibly get a shop to be able to make me a crossmember. I really like how you mounted your shocks like that.

Biggest thing, is MT worth it for you?

 

Solo and TC have kits that go outboard the frame, but I'm still not confident that can be done correctly unless you have a wider axle. All, including the BAMF kit, will require welding.


I've been very happy with my rear setup, so yes it was worth it to me. The stock 1st gen shock mounting points are worthless for matching shocks to maximize travel. I might have a different answer, however, if I had to pay a shop to do it. It took a lot of effort for me to cycle the suspension and get those shocks dialed as I wanted them.


If you're serious about MT, I would highly recommend buying a used/cheap MIG welder and learning how to weld. It will easily save you money in the long run.

 

Check your core support. Mine was cracked in a few spots, notably the ends that support the front of the fenders. Could be getting a small flapping out of them, causing a nice little vibe. But that of course would be road speed dependent.

 

MPH, and no shake in the stearing wheel. But the passengers headrest moves visibly.

It's around highway cruising speed, low to mid 70s.

 

Things that shake with mph: driveshaft
cv's
tires

 

My passenger seat has been vibrating since I can remember. The 33s and even 35s have not seemed to exacerbate it.

 

Thanks man! Here are some pics. Any advice appreciated.

 

Drive shaft and tires I know.

What causes a CV to shake? And more importantly, how does one make it stop?

 

I have no idea. lol I was just thinking out loud, of what could be spinning with mph. Possible the joint has a bunch of play in it? Did you check your driveshaft U-joints?

 

I just replaced inner and outer tie rods for nothing really, because I had a vibration. After throwing parts at it, it ended up being the Dynabeads not being able to balance my tires. I kind of didn't mind replacing the tire rods though, because now I have trail spares.
After a traditional wheel balance using wheel weights, the vibes are gone.

The vibes drove me nuts!

 

Have you checked/replaced wheel bearings?

 

Tire balance is good (recent confirmation).

 

The CV has play in and out, but is otherwise tight. I wonder if the position of the boot clamps could be an issue? There is extra weight where the crimp is.

Wheel bearings don't seem to have any play, and are quiet.

I haven't tried the driveshaft joints. But I do keep them greased.

 

I remember reading on Dynabeads site a few years ago that they cannot correct for lateral imbalance, only radial. Which makes sense.

 

Good to hear. I go back and forth on the truck since it's 2wd and 4cyl.

 

That's funny! I'm still figuring out what type of dirt stuff I'm going to do so all in all I have time to decide what I want to do. Locker might be something I do in the future for sure!

 

I'd double check the wheel bearings. They can create a vibration when they are about to fail. They can still be quiet up to the failure point. Does the vibration change if you steer slowly left or right like in a lane change?

 

My wheel bearings cause a pretty good vibe and clunking noise almost at lower speeds, like 25-40. Surprised it didn't actually fail on me on my way back from moab.

 

If I cause any body roll or weight shift the vibration goes away. Very subtle steering input has no effect.

I'll check the wheel bearings and core support this weekend and report back.