Multi-amp Wiring?

yeah wasn't a problem, never was and alt is still going strong

This wasn't my biggest setup either.

As for time most demo's lasted 2-3 songs but most songs isn't STRAIGHT bass, there is some recovery periods

 

Yeah, I never did see anyone running more than one or two songs, so I wasn't sure how long you were running. Takes a lot of power for sure. Most of my recommendations for the higher output alternators are for those running winches and lots of lights where you want to maintain a strong battery without taxing it too much. I have built some solid systems for bass competitions though.

 

i see my edited post didn't take.

Generally I'm all for a strong electrical system.
Most of my songs had small periods of voltage recovery and my voltage never dropped below 12.6 even on full out bass race runs

There is no way, with a solid group 31 AGM battery , big 3, 1/0 and say a 2000wrms setup they would need an Ho alt. Most of these batteries float at 13.8 resting if trained and with a constant supply of 14.4v+ @ 130 amps from the alt they are more than safe. I also just recommend people buy a digital volt meter off eBay for a small fee and install that and just always be conscious of their voltage.

Voltage drop is the # 1 enemy of 12v electronics.

I was playing around with bringing Ho alts to TW before you started with yours and it was mainly due to what you mention here. Winching, and over all Big draw use... but anyways

 

I agree that only running a 2000W amp that there would be a need for a huge alternator. However those who have a 1st gen, or a 2nd gen without the off-road or tow package, do not have even a decent alternator. It is rated at less than 70 amps. The off-road alternator is only rated at 130 amps. When you run an alternator at 75% of its rated output the chance of a diode blowing increases greatly. Sure you have not had any problem with YOURS, but you are a lucky one. I have seen too many trucks running simple 2000-4000 watt systems rip through a factory alternator in short order.

It's like my wheel bearings that I sell. I have plenty of orders from customers with 60k or less on their truck needing wheel bearings. I also have customers who have said that they have over 100k miles and don't need them yet. It's luck of the draw when you start talking about high power. I would personally prefer to have an alternator capable of running higher outputs for a longer period of time, than trust my expensive equipment to a factory alternator that could blow a diode, and fry $5k in stereo equipment.

Of course the biggest problem with high output alternators is finding a builder who actually manufacturers them properly. Lots of places do shortcuts where the alternator puts out great at 2000RPM, but fall on their face at idle speed. Took some work on my end to get a quality builder for my alternators.

 

take the same approach as your main fuse size. something larger than your load and smaller than your cable capacity.

 

Thankfully I do have the tow package and thus the higher output alternator model.
I do agree that if you have the baseline or low output alternator
Option from factory you would need an upgrade and might as we get a 250+ Amp alt.

Anyhow back to topic

 

Wow, that is WAY overpriced...

 

Do yourself a favor and go to www.knukonceptz.com to purchase any wires or kits, they have the best prices and quality products. Their service is excellent too!

 

Mine is/ was cheaper : ) but we are currently very limited availability on kits

 

I want to install 1 amp 125w rms to component door speakers and one 200w powered sub. Can I just split an 8g power cable into two using 8g or should I run two power lines to the battery?

 

I'd run a 4ga to a distribution block and then 8ga to the amps. (fused or breakered at the battery, and possibly before the amps too) Sort of belt and suspenders, but it works...lol

 

you're going to want 2 rca ground loop isolators (1 for each rca) since you are grounding in different spots. or you can ground both amps at the same ground. if you don't, you'll get a pretty bad buzz/ white noise. i know this because mine is really bad right now.. lol

 

I don't know if this helps anyone but I had to order so many extras from Amazon and the wire really ups the cost. I found it easier to run the rca and remote down the passenger side opposed to taking out the center console. I have two component Kenwood installed int the doors. The tweeter mounts from taco tunes are a rip and were $23 with rip off shipping and upon arrival they weren't even correct and the speakers didn't fit. I emailed ********* and they didn't respond to any of my emails. So I wouldn't deal with this company. I cut out the oem speakers from the brackets a used plastic ties to mount the new tweeters to the oem brackets. The speakers don't sound great and distort. So I am going to run a 125w rms kicker 2 channel amp to the components to clean up the signal and an off brand 200w end 8" powered slim sub. I just received a stinger 8 gauge amp wiring kit and a stinger 8 gauge splitter. The power cable says it's rated for 600 wats and 60 amps. Both the amp and sub have 15 amp fused so I am hoping splitting the 8 gauge will be fine. I have 3 foot of 8 gauge ground cable. Hopefully I can make this work without buying more stuff. I just got less then two years to pay my reg csb 4 banger 4x4 taco off and this truck is very well thought out, even under the glove box there is s small white clip that can be used to hold the rca, speaker, and remote wires. I'm Aldo going to run som green LEDs down the center console and hook then to the gear lights in the center console. From sneeze post I get that I should somehow hook booth grounds together with this 3ft ground cable I have. I also just put in the 24f interstate battery and that was like $115 local. I put both the amp and sub at half gain and will run the power and grounds this weekend. I know this is a bit of a info dump. I let you guys know how it goes.

 

Install went fine. The 8 gauge worked fine. I ran two separate grounds. Only had 3ft, just drilled two metal self tapping screws in my amp and sub. Sound is way more then I need And the slim 8" sub really puts out some base. I have to turn it all the way down. I'm really surprised with the sound from this off brand little sub. I'll try to figure out how to put pictures in my gallery.

 

Approximately how much wire do you think you used?

 

I used the stinger sk4681 kit from Amazon $39.99. I used about 16 feet of power, 3ft ground, 10ft remote n speaker wire. the kit comes with 4 17ft rca and they were way long enough. It also cam with two ground screws that worked great. I drilled the grounds not directly to body but to metal welded to body on back wall and back passenger corner.

 

I would recommend you NOT use 8 gauge

 

job already done. Works fine and sounds good. Wire is rated at 60amp 600 watts n I'm running 325w 30amp at half gain. I let you know if I run into problems.

 

WAs directed at the OP as i know what his plans are/ should be

 

Seems legit