Multiple Maintenance Projects

I plan on doing the following next week and looking for input on the order of operation or how to make any of these easier. Also looking to see if I should check anything else out while I have certain components out (i.e. steering pump leaks while I have the intake out) I've got a ton of links but more are always welcome!

It started with the dealership recommending fuel induction service and new valve gaskets. I'm a new DIYer and starting to really keep up with my maintenance schedule so I figured this would be a great starting project.

1) Seafoam/Lucas/Chevron Techron. Leaning toward Techron since I'm not much a smoke show enthusiast. Hear great things about Techron also.
2) Clean intake, MAF, and TB. I plan on removing all components to clean thoroughly. I need access to the valve covers anyway.
3) Clean outside of valve covers and retorque bolts. I don't plan on replacing the gaskets as Toyota recommends. I'll try to retorque and watch for oil leaks first. Or should I replace while I'm already in there. Anything else I should look for while I have the plenums off?
4) Spark plugs. Wires? How often do wires need to be replaced?
5) Oil... Front/Rear Diff, Trans, and Transfer Case.

 

TTT

 

Replace the valve cover gaskets, or use RTV. Same with anything you disassemble, replace the gasket.

 

Your order is correct.

Always do the oil last, because seafoam will push itself past rings and seals into the crankcase.

 

Replacing all gaskets afterall including the valve cover gaskets. Also changing spark plugs and wires... Why not do it while I'm in there.

Do I need to change the oils before I start her back up or can I start her up and change oils later? Keep in mind I'm using the Techron cleaner before all of this.

 

ok, DO YOU KNOW HOW TO TIGHTEN THE BOLTS ON THE VALVE COVERS? THIS IS IMPORTANT. and this one has a good write up also
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/replacing-valve-cover-gasket-196737/

remember at least with our trucks there are several good sites for information and don't forget 4runner is a relative.
good luck!

and there is the idle air valve... stay with factory when it come to spark plugs, now i just changed the wires and boots on mine since it has 176,000 and have no idea how old they are bu,t stay with Denso if you change, one box for wires one for boots. kind of funny 3 boots and 3 wires....
i would change all oils and fluids and start as new, not too hard, and use the best you can afford, dont forget clutch fluid, power st. fluid, and you have a clutch slave cylinder, and brake fluid. keeping them changed will increase service life of the parts.

 

Thanks for the links. I've actually been all over the FSM and tutorials on Yotatech and 4runner forums many times. Can't miss a step or else I'm out of transportation!

Good call on the rest of the fluids. I just recently flushed the PS fluid but didn't think to do the clutch and brake fluid. Back to the search feature on these.

 

here is one more,
http://www.top4runners.com/ja/cleantb.html

 

I read that clutch fluid tends to get dark quickly. How do I know if I need to flush or replace? It's back and forth on this subject - Some change in 30/60k intervals and others don't change at all. What's right?

Everyone says it's simple, but does anyone have a writeup? Especially the inspection of parts and seals?

 

You never mentioned how many miles are on your truck....???

What about:

Water pump
Timing belt
Radiator flush & fill
Steering system flush & fill
Fuel filter
Brakes/rotors/pads
Clean out alternator & check brushes
Steering rack bushings
Carrier bearing good?

To name a few....

 

It probably can be as complicated or as simple as you want to make it.
I never did anything to the clutch when I owned my 96 tacoma.

However - with our corvette....we simply used a turkey baster and sucked out all the old fluid in the reservoir and added new stuff. A couple months later - repeat the process. Simple.....quick & painless.

 

See my notes below. I started my list because of my valve covers. I plan to tackle these items first while I have the intake apart and then everything else, i.e. steering rack bushings, clutch bleed, etc.

 

Fuel filter's a good idea to change. It's an easy process on the 3.4L.

Alternator doesn't need to be done, but if you're bored - or you do a lot of offroading, I would at least check the brushes (I had a local shop work on mine). The alternator on my 96 was caked with mud, brushes were bad because of the dirt that was in it, and my bearings were squeeling. If your alternator isn't functioning properly, you'll go thru batteries prematurely.

Carrier Bearing - You seem mechanically inclined to get under there and take a look at it. You'll know whether or not it has serious signs of wear.

Don't forget to lubricate your U-joints at the same time you change your diff fluids.

Also check your CV boots (especially if you offroad) for leaking grease, cracks, or deteriorating rubber.

 

yes hit the fuel filter! if it has never been changed, I would get some power blaster spray, (i keep it in the truck now) to loosen the old bolts and it could take a few days to loosen them, but with all my cars I change the filter once a year. gas has dirt and trash in it, empty one out in your hand, or white towel and see what comes out. you dont want that crap getting to your fuel injectors. one a year, is alot cheaper that replacing injectors. and not to mention that older gas tanks can accumulate trash and water at the bottom of them.

 

Ok, I'll add that to the growing list. Thank you guys.

Jandy - Not bored... just finally have the time to start taking care of the truck. I'll be honest, much neglect and I regret it. Also... not mechanically inclined, just willing to start learning.

On another note, I was cleaning out the skids and engine bay today. See the attached picture. (Top right power steering, Left air box, bottom right, fan). There's a ton of oil/dirt/sludge on the skids and around my power steering. Maybe an old leak that accumulated enough dirt to stop it?

Could this be something else other than the PS Pump? How do I know it's not just the reservoir? What's the best way to test?

 

Do you have power steering fluid in there or ATF? Power steering fluid can eat your seals and cause leaks. Just an idea... I just changed my power steering pump that was destroyed by incorrect fluid...

 

Definitely ATF since I just flushed it a few months ago. Cant say what was in there prior to since it was brown in color... Might've been old ATF.

I cleaned all hoses and frame components to monitor the leak. Hoping its just a hose.

Anybody have experience with rebuild kits from PSkits?