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Multiple switches on bed light mod?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by brow, Apr 29, 2010.

  1. Apr 29, 2010 at 3:17 PM
    #1
    brow

    brow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    switched rear-view camera, custom access cab bench, tonneau cover, custom bike rack in bed, extra d-rings, de-badged, mag lite mount, weathertechs, bed lights with 3-way switches, rear spring TSB, ultra gauge, after market hitch, cab/hitch mounted canoe rack
    So after owning my truck for a month I got my first mod done (back-up camera stand along switch) and have officially been bit by the bug. Next on the list is bed lights in the cubby holes, however I wanted to switch them both in the cab, and in the bed. Has anyone done this or have any information on what kind of wiring set-up that would be.

    I would be looking for two switches that operate independantly of each other, so their would not technically be an on or off for either switch, basically the same idea of a house light that has two switches on each side of the room that control the same light.

    Any info would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Apr 29, 2010 at 3:45 PM
    #2
    broker

    broker Well-Known Member

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    so are you looking to do a 3-way switch or just two switches that operate independently of each other?
     
  3. Apr 29, 2010 at 4:21 PM
    #3
    brow

    brow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I guess it would just be a 3-way switch idea, which means I could just hook the switches and lights up in series with everything grounded properly and I should be good to go, correct? It's been a few years since electronics classes.

    And if I am correct with that, where would I hook up the relay to protect everything?
     
  4. Apr 29, 2010 at 4:24 PM
    #4
    broker

    broker Well-Known Member

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    no hooking the switches in series wouldnt do what u want them to do. u might have to find some 12v 3 way switches? i dont know if they even make them or not. if they are in series both switches would have to be on to do anything.
     
  5. Apr 29, 2010 at 4:45 PM
    #5
    broker

    broker Well-Known Member

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    you could manage it with two single pole double throw switches with on/off/on, only you would have to always make sure that either switch is never on its middle setting of nothing on.

    what u really need is a single pole double throw with on/on. this is how a 3way switch in your house is operated
    http://www.elecdirect.com/product/e660fb45-a819-441e-aef7-6e4ad08a7f48.aspx

    thats the best thing ive found so far but im sure u want somethign that looks better. ut basicly this is what u will need
     
  6. Apr 29, 2010 at 4:48 PM
    #6
    jefferson

    jefferson needs to stop cruising Buy/Sell/Trade....

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    toyota brand hitch and uhaul wiring harness, fog lamps on anytime, bed lamps, map lights on with dome, day time running lamps, remove secondary air filter, painted bumper grill, Double Din touch screen stereo, Sockmonkey custom SR5 decal, door & seatbelt bells disabled, painted engine cover, installed compass/temperature overhead console, failed mod: passenger side auto down window switches, weathertech front mats, RedLine hood struts, Cheap Beep piezo buzzer locking beep, 5100s in the front set at 2.5, 5100s in the rear, AAL, hitch safe, revenge fab sliders, bed bar, prerunner light, cb wired
    two 3 way switches would work well. One in the back cubby, one on the dash. I've been thinking of doing this.. but been too lazy :D BUT its doable, just not with the kit i have mentioned in the mod. Youd have to ditch the wiring harness it comes with and build your own
     
  7. Apr 29, 2010 at 4:50 PM
    #7
    jefferson

    jefferson needs to stop cruising Buy/Sell/Trade....

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    yah, thats true. But i think he'd want it more like how a room with two doors and two switches work.. (walk in one door, flip on.. walk out the other door, flip light off). So you'd want the switches, no matter what position, to be able to turn on or off the light. 3 way switches could do this
     
  8. Apr 29, 2010 at 4:58 PM
    #8
    broker

    broker Well-Known Member

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    right. and a 3way switch is basicly a single pole double throw with on/on positons. with this type of switch it would be wired the exact same as how you would wire a threeway switch in a house. only rated at 12v instead of 120v
     
  9. Apr 29, 2010 at 5:23 PM
    #9
    brow

    brow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yeah, that's pretty much what ive come up with too, just need to raid all the local hobby and hardware stores to see if i can come up with a couple 12v 3ways...

    also, still a little confused on where the relay would need to be wired in
     
  10. Apr 29, 2010 at 5:29 PM
    #10
    brow

    brow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    to clarify what i'm asking, essentially im trying to do this with another light in series

    fig2.gif
     
  11. Apr 29, 2010 at 5:32 PM
    #11
    broker

    broker Well-Known Member

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    what kind of lights are u using back there to need a relay? i dont have a relay on mine.

    yea thats exaclty how it would look with an on/on switch
     
  12. Apr 29, 2010 at 5:46 PM
    #12
    brow

    brow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    switched rear-view camera, custom access cab bench, tonneau cover, custom bike rack in bed, extra d-rings, de-badged, mag lite mount, weathertechs, bed lights with 3-way switches, rear spring TSB, ultra gauge, after market hitch, cab/hitch mounted canoe rack
    I guess I was under the assumption after reading Jefferson's Mod write up that it was necessary to protect the switch and not melt them down, maybe I am confused on the actualy purpose of the relay
     
  13. Apr 29, 2010 at 5:55 PM
    #13
    jefferson

    jefferson needs to stop cruising Buy/Sell/Trade....

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    well thats basically the case. however, lights dont generate enough power to really bother most switches anyway. Bigger items (generators, winches, so on) really should use a relay. However, if you can get a relay in there, its a great idea.

    A relay really is a switch for the switch. You have your switch that turns on and off the relay. the relay then says "guy flipped the switch, time to turn on the lights (or whatever)". At that point youre not left with a switch that wasnt designed to take on a million volts and melt down.. thats switch is then only delivered a minuscule amount of power.. bad description.. but you get the idea
     
  14. Apr 29, 2010 at 6:32 PM
    #14
    brow

    brow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    if anyone can decipher my crude microsoft paint image here, the black box is the battery, rectangles would be my 3 way switches, circles are my lights, obviously the fuse would go inline next to the battery... does this make sense, or am I going to burn my truck down?

    yes im being paranoid, but I havnt even made a payment on it yet

    circuit.jpg
     
  15. Apr 29, 2010 at 6:53 PM
    #15
    brow

    brow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    damnit, now im just confusing myself, switches won't be grounded with a typical 12v switch, will they?
     
  16. Apr 29, 2010 at 6:55 PM
    #16
    broker

    broker Well-Known Member

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    bingo thats the only place u went wrong other then that.. exactly how i would do it.
     
  17. Apr 29, 2010 at 7:03 PM
    #17
    HondaGM

    HondaGM Roll Tide

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    hook up your 12v fused source,then from the ground side of the fog lights connect two wires,one to go inside the cab with switched ground.the other wire is for the bed with switched ground,which ever switch grounds will make the lights come on.
     
  18. Apr 29, 2010 at 7:14 PM
    #18
    brow

    brow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    woohoo, saturday project here I come
     
  19. Apr 29, 2010 at 7:15 PM
    #19
    HondaGM

    HondaGM Roll Tide

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    am i explaining it correctly?
     
  20. Apr 29, 2010 at 7:26 PM
    #20
    brow

    brow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    '10 silver access 4x4, that'll never be done
    switched rear-view camera, custom access cab bench, tonneau cover, custom bike rack in bed, extra d-rings, de-badged, mag lite mount, weathertechs, bed lights with 3-way switches, rear spring TSB, ultra gauge, after market hitch, cab/hitch mounted canoe rack
    I'm going to go off my drawing (minus the grounded switches, cuz i'm a moron). We'll see if this works out. I have to get the parts still, and it looks like the only decent looking ones are marine grade, which as far as i can tell just means expensive. I may be changing things depending on whether or not I go with a light-up switch, so basically I won't know till this weekend how it turns out. If it works out I'll probably write up a mini thread about the best way to deal with the dual switches
     
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