My 06 build

The only issues I had with the skid were the fact that our diff now hangs lower causing yet something else to get hung up on


I impaled my skid once on a log but guess what had it not been there I would have potentially damaged my pinion

On the 35s not as huge of a deal but still something else..... What our rear axles need are reinforcement through bracing and pinion guards that's it

 

Well now I've got more to think about here.
35s this 35s that sounds like a necessity.

 

yah sorry to throw a kink into plans, BUT theres this huge push by everyone lately on the forum and on build build build, but no one actually looking at the weaker spots


that being said our rear diff isnt a huge priority, yes the pinion is a must, but there are more important things

 

My issue with the bamf is where it's mounted to the pinion point. If you were to hit hard on that point would it not be just like taking a hit on the pinion. Could be worse like when you hit a center punch with a hammer. Just what I've noticed.
This then brings up more issues as to how one would mount further from that point as well as strengthening (more weight) the rest of it.

Not building it for looks (just a positive that comes with).
I also don't extreme off road.......yet, build slow and build right.

New suspension set up is gonna be next. Might keep the procomp base, cross members and spindles seeing as I have two sets of spindles this might be handy.
Gotta loose the rear blocks and front coilover spacers.

 

the impact is shared to the tubes, as he clamps down on the tubes, the pinion mount will not share that load


BUT i never said his is perfect either..... like I said I really think you should look at a pinion guard not a diff guard....... than reinforce the tubes on the top of the diff and housing to prevent bending and damage

 

Found this.

(bamf rear diff skid)

I may have to make a few design changes. I believe that's 1/4" steel too.

Thanks for pointing out my design flaw.... dick!

 

just protecting your best interest

 

$$$

 

Second battery install.
Small non-spillable 35Ahr battery with a 140amp isolator. The isolator ensures the "starting" battery in no way shape or form gets drained. I currently have my on board air compressors and rear winch tied to this. I will eventually hook my stereo to this as well.

 

Felt I needed a change. Picked the grill up from a member. He made it himself and did a fine job. I had to paint match to my truck as it was originally white.


Before

Yes, after a closer look that is my buddy pissing off the back of my truck.

After

 

Well based on all the action around here , I better wipe the dust off this one. I guess this forum isn't just funny pics and WTF threads.

This is the beginning of a whole change in design from my big mistake (procomp DB lift) to a real capable truck. I will likely be keeping the drop bracket and attempt to utilize it.

To start, here are a couple of parts I have picked up and are currently being sourced out.

XJ shackles. They have just arrived in the mail. (this should give me close to 3" of lift)


Pelfreybilt shock relocation kit.
http://www.pelfreybilt.com/#!shock-relocation-kit/c16eq

Allpro expedition leafs and ubolt flip kit. On their way. I am currently looking into shocks and bumpstops.
The current choice looks to be a set of king shocks and Radflo bumpstops. Until I see what I have for axle movement I will not be pulling the trigger on these items.

 

The shit storm has begun!
Operation lift block delete has started.
Box removal..

 

Looks good to drive.
Note the strength in the electrical tape taillight mounts. (I only had to go a few blocks to my place)


A little bit of chopping. Old shock mounts and shackle mounts removed.


New Allpro Expo leafs and ATO shackle flip kit with XJ shackles. Like a glove

 

Had to do some flexing for measurements before ordering some shocks. This is really a pain if you are doing this by yourself. Heavy duty zipties are very helpful on re-installation, as you will need to pull the leaf pack apart to get full flex. (all pro does not recommend this)


As sketchy as this looked she was fairly stable. With only 2 leafs the tension wasn't so bad.



With the measurements taken I was able to order shocks. I went for Radflo.
These were recommended as the best bang for your buck.
I ordered rear 2.5 resies and 2.5 hydro bumps.
I decided I would take on the front as well. I went with 2.5 coilovers that will eliminate my spacers as well as add an inch of up and down travel is all works out. I also ordered 2.5 hydro bumps for the front as well. With any luck I should get these in a week.

 

Ok. So here is how my last 2 weeks has been.
The package has arrived from Radflo!




Very very nice looking product.

 

And the radflos didn't fit the Pelfreybilt hoops with out a little custom work.
Had to drill a "relief" hole above the shock for added room.

 

Once I got the shocks to fit, tacked the hoops on and ran into another issue. The 14" shocks were to long for the hoop and spring set up I had gone with.....

 

Another customization. Added 6" to the rear (cab side) of the hoop and 3" to the front side of the hoop. I ran an insert inside the original hoop (added strength) and slide a sleeve over matching the diameter of the original hoop. Then welded it all together. This worked out fairly well.

 

I also flipped the bumpstop mounts to allow for a more centered weld on the bumpstops. I also added triangle tabs to the top and bottom of the hoops to make up for the length increase. The hoop is now welded the hole width of the frame.

 

Making reservoir isolators.