My 1999 Taco TuRD Build - I sold it

Yup, it's got a lock on it. Not foolproof but better than nothing.

 

Frame horn reinforcement completed today and the passenger side looks much better, even if the bolts still install crooked. They are a little straighter than before I think.

Driver side all welded in, except for on the engine side. Eventually I might be able to get those done.



Primed it up for paint.



After some tips from @Adude, I cleaned up and trimmed the driver side some more and then burned that into place, using a C-clamp to bring the 1/4" plate into line with the frame. Still is a little bent but it's way better and stronger than before.









Finished up with Krylon bedliner. Ready for the new bumper, once it arrives.

 

That looks great man, and your welding has improved in just one project! You know you got good penetration from the blued .25 plate nice consistent heat zone. 2 years from now you will look at it and want to re weld it, just like everyone does.

You can also tack a piece like that in so its flat. Secure it on the ends, then use the weld to draw the weaker bent material down to it by filling the gap. As the weld cools the weld will shrink pulling it the weaker material in. Using short 1 in welds in unison.

Keep at it man

 

@xtremewlr I'm going to assume that those CBI Frame Plates are welded on for increasing the strength of the stock frame. Is this for more weight capacity or just to keep the frame from flexing.

 

Do you have a link for the large power steering cooler? Love your inline filter location, much easier to access there.

 

Tacoma frames are known for being somewhat week, especially the 1st gens like ours behind the cab. With the added weight of the rack and the RTT on said rack, plus all the crap in the bed when I go wheeling and the upcoming plate bumper with tire carrier, I thought it prudent to reinforce the rear frame. At some point I might also box the rear frame if I get a wild hair about it but that involves pulling the bed so I'm not in a rush for that.

Thanks, I wanted to make sure it wasn't too much of a pain to get at the filter to change it but also still in a protected location.

$48 Hayden Automotive 676 Custom-Add-On Rapid-Cool Transmission Cooler 11.0” x 5.875” x 0.70”, Not for Direct Replacement

Here's the cooler I used.

 

Thanks! I already went over some of the welds on the crossbrace that the skid is mounted to. I actually tried getting that 1/4" plate to bring the bent section of the frame down some. As I was welding, I was also tightening the bolts to try to help draw the metal down while things were hot and then left them in for a little bit when I was done and everything was cooling off. Helped a little bit but not enough to really make much of a difference. The bolts are still crooked. But I should be able to work with it better than if I had done nothing. The bolts are M12 so I made the holes in the plate 1/2" but had to enlarge the rear most one on the passenger side to 5/8" to be able to install the bolt at an angle.

 

Working on getting storage, tools and recovery gear organized and mounted in the bed. For now, I have to work around having the spare in the bed still.

I mounted 2 sets of quick fists to the driver side bed rail and wheel well to mount the shovel and large axe.



The box in the corner is a

$26 MTM ACR7-18 Ammo Crate Utility Box, Ammo, survival or hunting gear storage, O-Ring seal for water resistant dry storage, Double padlock tabbed for security, Carries 65lbs of gear, Army Green

plastic ammo crate that I found on Amazon for $18 shipped. It's the perfect size to fit in the corner and contains my tow strap, a 10x12 tarp, tent stakes, a deadblow hammer and my small camp axe. And there is room enough to fit some more smaller items if needed. The lid is hinged and has a gasket to make it watertight with plastic latches on each end. Not so watertight now, since I drilled a couple holes in the bottom to bolt it to the bed with a couple of rivet nuts. But I really like the can and just ordered another one for the passenger side.





I mounted my High Lift Off Road base to the bottom of the tent, making use the rails that are already there and a couple of carriage bolts with wing nuts and some fender washers. For now, I have it mounted on the open end but will probably move the mounting bolts so they are between the bed rack rails so I can slide the base further back towards the cab. I could mount the bas on the cab end but there was less mounting surface there as the tent is slightly shifted toward the back of the truck.



I had to drill a couple of new holes in the base for the mounts but they don't affect the function or strength of the base at all.

 

How does the durability of that ammo can feel? Does it seem like the lid will crack in half? That would be a awesome option instead of my rubber maid tubs.

 

They are built pretty well IMO. I wouldn't put a lot of weight on the lid, like stand on it but it should hold up to lighter items on it. Mounted in the bed, it measures about 9 1/4" from the bed to the top of the closed lid. They have other sizes available too and for the price, they are worth it.

 

Got my 2nd ammo can and mounted it today. Worked out perfect as I can still fit my 2 gas cans between them. Between the ammo cans and the Husky storage boxes I got for the cab, I have a ton of secured storage now.

Both ammo cans are bolted to the bed of the truck. I'll throw a strap between the 2 corner anchor points on the bed to secure the gas cans.

 

Very nice, man! I like how you’re handling storage with the spare in the bed. I know how challenging that can be.

 

Yeah, doing what I can for now. Got the tracking number for the front bumper today, hopefully the rear is included with it. The rear I got with tire carrier so the spare in the bed shouldn't be for too much longer.

 

Bumpers arrived this past Tuesday and I have started work on them. The small ammo cans worked out perfectly and were water tight during this past weekends wheeling and camping trip.

Few pictures from the trip. From left to right, @Phessor , @Sapnjack , myself and @Ace115

 

I have to admit, these tent platforms look really good, but setting up a regular tent and sleeping on the ground is a whole lot cheaper. I need to win the lottery, so that I can spend a ton doing some of the mods, I'd like to do. As it stands right now, my budget only allows keeping up basic maintenance, and realistic suspension improvements.

 

The RTT beats sleeping on the ground, especially when you wake up to 13 degrees with snow and ice on the ground! Keep an eye on craigslist and the for sale sections here on the forums and you can find them pretty inexpensive. Just takes patience.

 

I didn't mind sleeping on frozen ground when I was 20 years younger. Now with all the added titanium in my spine, it will most likely act as a conduit for cold to permeate my body and freeze my old ass off.

 

I second that... smitybilt tent runs $730 new and can be cheaper on the used market. Basic racks can be had for cheaper as well, especially if just holding up a tent

 

Spent a little time this morning replacing vacuum lines and various others that don't hold any pressure. All new lines are black silicone from siliconeintakes.com. Nice heavy walled stuff so it shouldn't collapse under vacuum.



Doesn't really look like I changed anything. Still a few lines to replace but they are much more difficult to get to.

 

@xtremewlr great idea, when can you drive over and do mine for me.