my 2009 Tacoma shuts down when turning right.

This reminds me when I was working on a friend Datsun Pickup with 300 K Miles many years ago. He said it was haunted and always shutdown going over a particular set of train tracks. I told him he was full of it so he showed me. Drove all over town with no problems at all, not even a sputter. Crossed the train tracks and the engine shut off. Restarted and drove home no issues. Checking everything... Wires distributor spark plug wires ballast resistor for hours finding nothing. Engine was running and I leaned over and placed my hand on the breather to stabilize myself and when I put pressure on it boom it shut off.

The carburetor mounting nuts were slightly loose and when it was jarred ( or pushed on one side ) it would loose vacuum and shutdown.

Don't get locked in on just electrical causes.

 

I found those grounds check them they seemed secure, i checked other wires/ connectors, started the truck pulled on wire harness pulled a few smaller wires, backed the truck down the driveway. Drove it up the driveway turning right and left, didn't stall at all, took it for a drive ran great turning left and right, wow confused, maybe it's just glad to be, home after being in the shops for so long lol, thanks for your help it still has those codes though, what's a good way to erase them disconnect the battery? thanks my cheap 20-dollar scanner from Amazon doesn't seem to erase them.

 

It could be that by moving the harnesses you 'fixed' the problem whether temporarily or permanently only time will tell.
Trouble codes won't always clear by disconnecting the battery, many times they have to be cleared by a scan tool or they will also clear on their own after number of good drive cycles.

 

I have not reset the ECM. i know when the motor was put in and the new ECM the shop sent it to Toyota and they flashed it, I do need do get the code issue resolved because i need a smog and lamp inspection before i ca drive it legally, thanks for your insight. no I checked the build sheet i did not have the sensors replaced.

 

i did check vacume hoses in the engine compartment every thing looked good Thanks for the advice.

 

These ones can suck. It could be a loose connection somewhere or a chafed wire hanging on by a strand. You're going to have to go over the entire harness until you find something. Start flexing and tugging on the harness everywhere, use a little force and yank it around. Do this with the engine running, if you hear the rpms drop or anything like a stumble you're close to the problem.

Have you looked at the electrical portion of the ignition switch? Sometimes I'll take them apart and visually look at the contacts for burning

 

well, the second test drive did not go well. i went up to my daughter's school about 20 minutes away from the house lots of turns hills and everything was running fine check engine light went off, as soon as pull into park, which was a left turn it died. so, I turned the key to off, went in the school got a covid kit. went back out started up the truck, backed out it stalled out. i coasted down to the lower parking student parking lot, popped the hood, started going after connecters checking wires about 30 minutes go by, starts up i drive about three miles dies, i pop the hood wiggle wires trying to start it a few times, like at the school no luck about 30 minutes later it starts go another 3 miles it dies do the same thing working wires, starts up drive 3 miles dies, same routine Ido it again checking wires , finally starts get it home 20 minute drive took 3 hours, i get home open the garage truck is running, pull in the garage leave truck running give daughter covid kit, go to the garage trucks not running go to start it and its just starts and stalls like all the other times know it sits again in the garage ugh .

 

Never mind my previous post, after rereading your post with the all the codes.
You need to keep checking wiring.

 

I did get a new code P0000 then i got p0157 P0351 352 353 354 355 P0156 pd and P0351PD TROUGH P0356PD idk coil pack thing I guess

 

I've seen ECU connectors not seating fully cause this.

I had a radio once do this, only left turns, stupidest thing. took it apart, it was a coin inside that would only short out on turns lol

 

I have not checked the ignition switch I guess I will work my way that way

 

could it be the ECM?

 

It's possible water is inside it, I can't remember if you can open it, but because its inside the cabin I would assume you can.

 

I had a Tundra last week that had an engine put in it by let's just say a questionable shop, it had pages of codes, ran bad, and stalled.
I ended up finding 1 ECM connector not fully seated, a junction connector not fully seated, and 2 sensor connectors not fully seated, I plugged them all in all the way an everything was fine after that.

 

The ECM is brand new but I'm thinking it there where the ECM and the junction box next to the ECM are, Im going to pull those connectors and see if there all seated Thanks

 

The shop i had the engine rebuilt at and the ecu replaced is a good shop all they work on is Toyotas ang they build all the engines in house , i did take water up to the dash at an angle intake side first then up to the ac ecm I just could send the truck to the action it a good built truck

 

I believe the P0351-0356 are set when the ECM receives NO ignition confirmation signal.
You have 1 wire that sends signal to fire, and one that sends a signal saying the coil DID fire.
Both are connected to the ECU, pull the ECU connector and take a look at the pins. Then make sure it’s plugged in securely.

Other than that, you need guys like Bishop and @Dm93 with a scope to figure it out “quickly”.

I guess you could check for power and grounds if you want?

 

agree I think that's the plan tomorrow, Thanks

 

If the coils lost power, ground, or IGT signal could cause no coil confirmation (IGF) signal so there's more to it than checking the IGF wires.
There's alot of variables with your truck with it being underwater and having the engine and ECM replaced.
Someone with a scope and knowledge could probably pinpoint it very quickly but diagnosing it yourself could prove to be tricky.