My 2013 Tacoma Access Cab Chinook build in progress

Thanks Dan!

 

The floor is PergoMax and very stable...Not wood. I left a piece in a glass of water for 3 days and there was no expansion. I did stain the cut edges anywhere that an edge met my aluminum Schluder channel though as you can see about a 1/16" of the edge. On my list is to caulk in all the edges with a dark brown to seal it all but stil, let it expand if it wants to... I do not think it can expand much as the longest cut board I'd less than 3 feet....

 

Light day today but I got my metal bands prepped for my canvas installation, hopefully tomorrow. I stashed a couple of pieces of 8’ long by 1/16” white powdercoated aluminum cutoffs from another job... I ripped them into 1” strips, dressed the edges and predrilled 5/32” holes every 6”...
The canvas mounting plan is to use a double face tape between the mounting surfaces top and the canvas and then run a continuous strip of aluminum arround the top and bottom... screws on top and 5/32” pop rivets on the bottom... using the rivets on the bottom so I can glue my felt hullliner after the installation as a finished surface... way better than a row of nuts and washers all the way around my interior....
I also glued and finish nailed the hardwood trim around the floor in the access cab... need to fill my countersunk nail holes and stain and then a satin clear coat...

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKlFbMGTJVY

 

Thanks Joe!

 

Installed the canvas today and it worked out very nicely! used the rivets on the bottom and stainless screws on the top through the continuous aluminum band....I still have to install the bungee tensioners on the inside. Needed 4 sets of hands to get the top secured...this was a milestone...

 

So awesome. Makes we want to take a sawzall to my truck right now. Great work.

 

Thanks Justin! .... if I had known what I was getting into I may have left my sawzall put away!

 

how are you managing the weather seal between the camper shell and the open back of the pickup cab ?

be very interested in seeing the final curb weight of this rig.

 

The camper is sandwiched between a 1"x3" fabricated steel structural member and the cab and through bolted with 1/4" stainless carriage bolts... Sealed with a butyl rubber seal and a couple of tubes of

$33 3M 5200 (06504) Permanent Bonding and Sealing for Boats and RVs Above and Below the Waterline Waterproof Repair, Black, 10 fl oz Cartridge

3M 5200. . It is detailed earlier in the thread.

 

Installed the bugee cord tensioner son the canvas today. They really help the fabric to sort of accordion when the top is lowered.
Also added a job for myself by some bad planning. My lid for the porta potty compartment would not close after installing the floors. Raised the elevation by 3/8” with flooring so I had to belt sand 3/8” off the bottom of the plastic mounting base. I planned for the fridge but forgot about the head!
My last big agenda item before the electric wiring is the AC. Installing the duct fan to remove the heat off the coils and how that all relates to the generator compartment. I have it all worked out in my head and it will be pretty slick.

 

So damn impressive. The ideas, the exectuation... I tip my hat to you, sir.

 

Thank you Buddy! It has been a mental exercise working it all out for sure....

 

I got the infrastructure done today for the a.c. installation. I cut a hole for a 2" wire grommet for the 110v plug....made some angle aluminum tabs for the 4" duct fan and installed the fan.....then cut a piece of 1" divinicel and contact cemented a piece of rubber shower pan membrane to create my condensation drain...draining the condensate through a plastic hose barb to a 5/8" ID hose to the ground. ... Also cut a 4 1/2" hole for a plastic marine inspection port on the side of the AC cabinet so I am able to access the nuts to be able to remove the propane mount without removing the air conditioner.... i need to be able to remove the LP mounts when I put the rig in a 20' shipping container in the near future...without the LP mounts the truck is 19' 5" bumper to bumper!
Tomorrow I will get the AC in tomorrow. The basic premise of installing a window shaker without a window is to separate and isolate the inside air from the outside air and then to partition the 'outside the window' air with another partition with the units fan taking in fresh cool outside air and then using the 4" duct fan to draw the hot air from the coils and expel it outside... then drain the condensed water...
If that makes any sense! I will set up the AC outlet on a switch so when the air is in use the duct fan will be on...it is going to work well!

 

FWIW, my kid is putting one of these little A/C units in his home built camper...

LG LP0817WSR 115V Portable Air Conditioner with Remote Control in White for Rooms up to 150-Sq. Ft. (Renewed)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4L2SHG/

most of those window A/C units are just too big and too powerful.

 

Thanks for the updates. Will you be able to access the drain tube? I've noticed on wine cellar cooling units that run a lot they get pretty fouled with algae and the lip of the barb fitting dams a far amount of water in the bottom of the unit.

 

Yes scott. I will be able to access it from the bottom of the tube or reach through my access port and add biocide if needed. And need be a few bolts and the unit will be out but I don't want to remove it too often.

 

I considered all of my options. The free standing roon ac's make sense in the right situation. Way too tall for mine. I am very sure my little 5000 BTU will not be too powerfull as the top quarter of my room is a tent. I think it will keep it reasonably comfortable though...

 

I did not get the AC in hole today because my urethane caulk needed another day. I did finish the fresh air intake shaft. It is open on the bottom to the generator compartment. Cut a hole and installed a 6x10" louver cover. The Ac will pull air through the louver or from the bottom. Installed the condensation tube...left it long so I can route the drip toward the center of the truck...don't need a mud puddle at the back door...
Still need to install the 4" duct on the exhaust fan but I did not have it on hand today.
Framed and made the removable panel out of FRP and contact cemented a piece of foilback foam insulation on the back...Also soundproofed the bulkhead and outside camper shell. I have some other sound shielding to do. The little gen set is pretty quiet but I am doing what can be done to make it as quiet as possible? ..
The FRP panel will get finished in grey felt and the gen cover will get per go floored...both will be removable... the FRP panel to service the fan or taillight and the floor piece to service the generator. This area will have some floated shelves and be used as a clothing closet.

 

Looks like decent diameter on the tube, should be fine and you can see it if necessary. So that foil covered area is the intake chase from the louvered vent to the AC and gets covered/sealed by the panel, right? The 4" is for the exhaust? Do you think it would help to use double wall or insulate it to better isolate the warm exhaust from the cooler intake air or is delta T too small to bother?