My attempt @ a 2 to 3 drop ... ... more or less...

tops smooth.

 

"so I buckled down and just went and bought the spacer kit Weazleburger was selling. 1" spacer with 1/8" washers (put those on the bottom where the bolt head is). Dropped the front 1" exactly (was @ 30 7/8, now @ 29 7/8). VERY easy to install (took me about 15 min.); ... "

So I did the math and this is what I got from it all. Since the 1" spacer install I placed the washer that came with the kit and added in four more so that they would help space out the spindle more (ea. was 1/8" thick - 2 ea side for a total of .25" lift) WHICH brought me to 29.75 (originally 29 7/8"). Now that I have cut the spring - NOTHING happened. In cutting a 1/2 turn, I only cut off the dead spring. So if you really want the FULL 1" drop, you will need to cut ONE ENTIRE TURN off - which is what I will be doing soon (just adding in the remaining 1/2 turn).

 

will be posting a couple more, just have to get my ass back to work right now.

 

lowlow

 

Stock strut removed





Cut spring placed in

 

Also was told NOT to gorilla grip the sway bar bushings, which is what I did a little while ago. Have to redo the whole thing and remember this time to NOT go too tight on the bolts lol.



it got worse, top is pretty much dead, and now it's almost the bottom bushings turn. Going to be swapping it all out either today or during next week.

 

been going to car meets here and there recently, wanting to finish this build off jdm style ... ish.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaron_boost/6409025867/

 

lol, nah just somewhat of that kind of look. I saw some nice Volk mesh rims (I think they were Volk) on a 350z that looked nice. Not too big but not too small (looked like they were either 18's or 19's not too sure). As of now I'm working on mainly dropping it enough till I get more funds to do the bag set-up (simple lift/drop only) and then more work on the interior and redoing the audio (want to stick with one name brand or get close to that v. having all these brands).

 

these would be nice though

 

or these ones but with the middle in bronze or gold and in either 18" or 19".

 

this build is going to be a simple one. at most I'm going to have a 2 gallon tank (although still using dual compressors and 8 valves - don't want to have to worry about body roll and fill time).

 

front with UAS ... ahhhh ... ... #sigh ... .... SOOON!!!!!!!!!!!!! ... one day ... *patience

 

lol, my old Dakota was a street hopper, trying to keep this one intact (daily, plus only ride, usually on my pedal bike but it's only for short distances).

Had 3/4" lines all around, 2600's all around, SD7 (ditched the electric comps, but had a small paintball tube for emergencies), 100 cf scuba tank, 8 gallon tank @ 275 psi from the edc and 300psi from the scuba tank. LOVED IT but in the end ... I broke it.

lol, not going to be going nuts with this one, simple 2 gallon should be enough for a get up and go shot. reason being for the dual comps is that ... yeah I do admit I might get carried away and play but the dual comps will help since the volume in the tank isn't so large, so less time to for the comps to stay on which helps with their duty limit ? (basically it keeps they running longer - you won't damage the piston rings, cylinder wall and so forth).

 

LMAO, I already know how to silence them. when I used to have my comps in my Blazer, I didn't have those rubber isolators, so what I did was take the energy bushings that you can use for sway bars and use those. they are stiff and durable enough to keep the vibrations to a low. worked out well for me and with them being outside, it'll make things even more quiet.

 

DID IT!!!!! went well too yesterday. Didn't even take as long as I thought it would. Will be posting pictures later today but for the most I have the 1" I wanted out of the springs. There is camber, but for myself I don't mind how much I am getting. Will be fiddling with the back as soon as I get a bag replacement and some blocks.

 

after hitting up a car meet on Sat. I wasn't happy with how the front looked, so going to hack off yet another 0.5 turn, then get 3" blocks along with some sleeve bags to keep the back from donking all the time.

here's what I found out though while dropping, the bottom perch for the spring on the front strut will hit the UCA, so be careful in planning out the UCA mod (please to read a couple pages back). If you do raise it 1", make sure that it won't cause problems with the spring since it starts to get wider at the top. As of now, my UCA's are VERY close to the bottom spring perch, but not hitting, if I probably go nuts like I was off road or something I guess I'd be in trouble but other than that it's fine from the looks of things. Top of springs are still seated, but it was somewhat of a pain trying to get the to stay seated when replacing everything. Be sure to watch for that when re installing.

 

have to rotate the images

 

this is the driver side, the overall picture. You can see where the bottom of the spring perch on the strut is close to the UCA. When I was taking out the spring, using the DIY home method with the jack, I had to remove the UCA bolts (long with the brake line and that other small bolt on the UCA and swat bar bolt) from the frame so that the strut itself would be able to come out.

 

this is how the passenger side looks.