My Audio Setup - Technical Opinions

Correct. Just want to play some music.... Go with one easy amp. I wouldn't even get an amp if you just want to play some music. Most aftermarket head units put out good wattage for jamming out to some music.

Save even more time and money!

 

I have no idea where you are trying to get at. We are all referring to what OP had in mind with his build which is where my recommendation came from. If the vid you sent was from your truck I guess it’s cool not all of us want to use up bed space. Or cut up our door panels like that

 

Title says "Technical Opinions"....

 

Those aren't your only options in shallow subs.

If you can fit a Sundown SD4, they'll outperform the JLs in every arena. You can still find SD3s which are also a good alternative although they use a larger ferrite magnet. I own an SD3 and can vouch for it - one of the best sounding subs on the market IMO.

That said, the JLs are nice. They just can't hang with the Sundowns.

Are they worth the extra money over the Kickers? IMO yes - all day long.

 

Since you're rethinking everything, have you considered just using one good sub & a 5-channel amp? Here's what I would do if I were in your shoes...something like:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR9015/Kenwood-Excelon-XR901-5.html?tp=35808

That gets you 60 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms for $550. That covers all your power needs.

The active version (will use a DSP)

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c.../sb-acoustics-sb17mfc35-4-6-poly-cone-woofer/

A pair of those will run you $120

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...stige-27tffnc/g-h1396-1-textile-dome-tweeter/

A pair of these can be had for $84

Those 2 will make a rock solid front stage

https://www.woofersetc.com/sd-4-12-d4-sundown-audio-12-600w-rms-dual-4-ohm-sd-series-subwoofer.html

Sundown Audio 12SD4: $300

https://www.parts-express.com/dayto...nal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio--230-500


Dayton 4x8 DSP for $150

TTL: $1204 (minus head unit and enclosure)

The passive version:

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/auto-kits/scanspeak-discovery-820013-6-autosound-system-pair/

$434 for this kit

https://www.woofersetc.com/sd-4-12-d4-sundown-audio-12-600w-rms-dual-4-ohm-sd-series-subwoofer.html

Sundown Audio 12SD4: $300

TTL: $1284 (minus head unit and enclosure)

The DSP version will require more time (tuning), but will be a better experience once you get it set up. You'll also need a mic which can be had from around $17 for the Dayton IMM-6, or UMM-6 for around $75 (there are other options for more money but the $17 IMM-6 will get the job done). Or if you happen to be around Denver you can use my UMM-6. You'll also want a laptop (but can swing it with a phone if you buy the $30 dongle). It will not be as easy, and you may need some help getting up to speed, but it's worth it once you get dialed in. It will give you that immersive and detailed listening experience you mentioned earlier.

The passive version will be easier, but you'll sacrifice sound quality. The DSP lets you control left and right EQ individually, set time alignment and also offers phase control as well as fine-tuning crossover points and slopes. Passives will offer none of that. I'll even offer to help you set this up and tune it remotely.

If you want easy and don't mind sacrificing sound quality, go with passives. If you want it to be as good as it can be, go active. The difference is pretty significant. Once you go with a well-tuned active system, it's hard to go back to passives.

I would suggest a good enclosure for the sub too - nothing off the shelf. Have Mr Marv build you one. Not sure what he charges, but seems like it's $3-400 shipped. Or use a GOOD local shop. You can use a pre-fab but you'll see better performance out of something built well using proper materials. Pre-fabs don't generally get it right. Marv's enclosures are 2nd to none.

This is just what I would do in your shoes. Mostly anyway - I build my own enclosures. Bang for the buck is high with this setup. Of course any number of substitutions could be made, but that's a good pushing off point if you decide to take the 5-channel route.

Edit; you can save even more cash and greatly simplify install of the active config by choosing a head unit with built-in processing. You may have already done that - didn't think about looking.

 

Thanks all (especially Rob and Java), I am going to look into all of these suggestions and make some more posts when I get back from vacation tomorrow. Will definitely be going with two subs even if it costs me a bit extra dough (want something that stands out bass wise if I need it), honestly $500 more for what I want for years down the road is worth it, I just want to make sure what I am getting is quality for the money I am paying. You guys are really helping with that and appreciate it.

 

Just remember this is a rabbit hole depending on how much of an audiophile you are. I started with a set of $60 front pair and now I’m at $1200 front set but damn does it sound good now now I’m contemplating changing up my subs

 

Heh, definitely a rabbit hole. I started with a pair of 6x9s in 1989, started competing a few years later , and now just can't go without good sounds. I hoard gear, so I always have a few backup systems on hand - you never know when you're gonna burn up an amp. I can just pull another out of the closet . I swap stuff out a good bit to try new things & rarely sell what I pull out unless it sucks. I generally don't buy super spendy stuff though. Nice, but hardly ever the super high end. I think I have $1500 or so in my current setup and it's really nice.

 

Marv made me go with the high end stuff lol my current front set is more along the lines of 1600 I was gonna get a different setup then ended up saying f it and went with even nicer stuff. I used to think spending 1600 on a set of speakers was crazy talk until I joined the crazy’s

 

$1,600 for a front stage - do tell

 

Hybrid Audio Legatia SE’s. Sounds soo clean at very high volume

 

Ya those are very nice!

 

So that was pretty entertaining.

Couple takeaway

Always try to get stuff you’ll still be happy with in 5 years, it’s just cheaper in the long run.

Nothing wrong with 5 channel amps if that’s what the situation calls for.

Anti-Rear Fill guys... why is this still a thing? Time alignment is so common now. Let it go.

 

Nothing against rear fill just I would see more benefits to spending that money in a higher quality front set

 

Going with 2 of these Sundowns, mounting depth gives me .5" bottom clearance in my box.

Sundown Audio SD-4 10 D4 SUB 10" 600W RMS Dual 4-OHM SUBWOOFER BASS Speaker New

https://www.amazon.com/SUNDOWN-AUDIO-4-OHM-SUBWOOFER-Speaker/dp/B0787H4VK4

 

OK so I was planning on getting 4 ohm subs due to the higher quality bass over loudness, but since I am doing 2 10s is it true that I can wire them in series to get 4 ohm resistance? If so, shouldn't I be getting two 2 ohm subs for a better value (4 ohm subs seem to be more expensive in general)? Sorry, this probably seems like pretty basic stuff for you guys but this is all new to me.

 

What makes you think a 4 ohm sub will sound better than a 2 ohm sub?

Yeah, you can wire a pair of 2 ohm subs in series for a 4 ohm total load. But your amp's going to make less power assuming that it doesn't have a regulated power supply.

 

I read 3 articles total from reputable car audio sites about 2 ohm vs 4 ohm, all of them said the same thing. Here is one of the quotes which is what they all said: "Basically, a 2 ohm subwoofer demands less power from the amp and tends to deliver louder bass. On the contrary, a 4 ohm subwoofer will demand more power from the amp and deliver less loud but higher quality bass. Thus, make your choice depending on the kind of bass you want." Are they wrong? A couple give the caveat that it is only slightly better quality at 4 ohms but when trying to dial in your system as precisely as you guys do I would assume slightly better is better than none at all.

With two subs I want to have them at 4 ohm since they will already be producing plenty of bass when I go with a dedicated sub amp.

 

Should have mentioned this before, but the SDs are dual voice coil subs...assuming you're taking that into account. So a D4 can be wired to 2 or 8 ohms. And a D2 can be wired to 1 or 4 ohms.

And yeah, they're wrong. The lower impedance you show an amp, the more power it will make in general - unless it has a regulated power supply. As far as nominal impedance dictating sound quality I say prove it. Now, different coil configurations in the same driver will have different parameters and that does play into the calculus. But these have to be considered on an individual basis and cannot used as a generalization. And if you're using a pre-fab and possibly inadequate enclosure, that will make far more difference than a shift in TS parameters. Just because something fits in the hole doesn't mean it will perform well. Enclosure size is dictated by the driver and type of enclosure. It's not arbitrary.

 

Sounds like Marv convinced you on the HATs!

I'm with the 5ch. amp group for simplicity since it can run the whole system (depending on what you're running of course). I run a 5ch. mmats and it fits perfectly with the lack of space in my DC.

Not to throw another option in the mix but have you considered horns (compression drivers) with a matched mid bass for front stage? This setup will run "active" so you need some type of processor if your HU does not have any or enough for tuning.