My dunb A** is bothering ya'll again...

toytec progressive AAL (i think, i've looked at so much stuff) I don't have to worry about the front though?

 

Please guys, put up with me. Do I NEED F ot R Brske lines but don't want to bleed b/c of some horror stories (or so it seems). Anyway do I NEED spacers (like spidertrax) and if so what width? 4.5 BS 0 offset (i think), 285/76r16 going on 2014 DC SB w/ 5100s @ 0, 5100s, OME 885s, in rear toytec progressive AAL.

These are the rims https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whe...coma+Double+Cab&autoYear=2014&autoModClar=4wd

I thought 1.25 too much, do they have 1/2 or 3/4. Please guys this all going in at one time and I need as little hickups as possoble.

TW has been my saving grace so far anf just need a little more from ya'll. Please.

Thanks ahead of time,
Adam

 

I am sitting at 3in of lift on stock UCA and barely got it aligned and my trucks darts and wonders. so I order Camburg Uni-Ball UCA from Wheelers today. Plus with proper maintenance they will last the life of the truck.

 

Lol, sorry had to

But any way YOU DO NOT NEED BRAKE LINES. My wheels are the same BS and Offset as yours, my 265 rubbed on the back of the front inner fender AFTER i installed SPIDERTRAX 1.25 spacers. Due to how far out the wheel and tire set with the spacers and wheel BS/offset combined. The problem a lot of people have with a 285 is rubbing on uca because of tire width but with your wheels you should be fine. I really dont think you will need spacers. I could be wrong but i would try with out them. Worst thing is you gotta run your stockers for a couple days until you get them. Unless you want the added width of spacers, in that case you will have to do some work to the inner fender. Hope that helps!

 

I ordered the all-pro UCAs. Might as well install them while I'm in there, right? I mean hell, they were damn expensive! so why let them got to waiste, right? and they will be long lasting and maintenance-free (relitively) right? I also a spare uniball bearing for future maintenance, dumb idea? These are my rims http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=HE87869068712NB&wheelMake=Helo&wheelModel=HE878&wheelFinish=Black+Painted&autoMake=Toyota&autoModel=Tacoma+Double+Cab&autoYear=2014&autoModClar=4wd&AID=10398365&PID=2206300&SID=two2423599. Just nervous cause it's time to tear into a brand new truck. thanks for all ya'lls help. Today is stereo day (whole system from taco tunes (there 6 door spearkers are in, new pioneer HU - 4600bt - SWC installed, Alpine 4x100 for the 4 doors w/ 1x500 for there 12" in there ported box). Really should really punch you in the kidneys hey) Wish me luck!

 

All Pro A-arms are BADASS! Mine will be in next week along with my All Pro IFS skid, cant wait to get them on there! I love their stuff and the people are great. Yes they will be long lasting and maintenance free for a long time for sure, they are high quality.

 

I think I got them on your reco (so I blaming YOU! (J/K), From youtube it looks pretty easy. They say I have to bend some inner fender to get out the UCA long mounting bolt and to mind the ABS wiring but that's about it. Aloso looks like the toytec real progressive AAL wont be too bad either. I think I might can space up the rear brake line mounting bracket to give me a little extra if need be, huh? What's this skid you speak of? Advantages? Also where'd you get your front bumper, opinions?

 

Thats the All Pro Apex front bumper and the skid is theirs as well. It actually works as a skid vs the pop can factory "cover". You will be fine in the rear with the aal, you might bend down the e brake cable mounts just a bit, put the truck on jack stands (on the frame) then let the rear end down slowly with the jack. You can then see how tight every thing will be. Uca install is pretty easy from what ive seen. Yes one bolt is tough and make damn sure not to stretch or bend those ABS wires other wise you will be replacing those as well.

 

Brake lines are a good idea. Sucks to open the door and stick a foot out to stop.

 

I've just heard horror stories like getting air back to the m/c and and to have it towed to the dealer b/c they must bleed it (?). Another guy said pinch the old line (destroying it) and putting it in jar of brake fluid so air can't travel back up. Don't really get the pinch and destroy it thing. I've got flare nut wrenches and a 2 piece set from Al-Pro ( which I assume are front lines - 2) , I assume a 2014 is like the old ones, just one line coming down and splitting, right? Don't say go look, I'm still in my skivvies! Any way, disconnect old and install new but how do I keep air from getting back to the M/C? That guy just got me paranoid! SHARE WISDOM PLEASE! Can you point me to right up on hoe to handle these 2014s. This guy just freaked me out with the towing thing!

Thanks Guys!.

P.S. The OME 885's and taco lean spacer should be here Mon so I should all the pieces and no excuses to get started. (well, except for the brake line now????)

Edit: Fu**, I gues I'm confusing E-Brake with hydro. I swear I'm not as dumb as I sound.

 

Double post

 

I know its Friday but are you already drinking? lol

 

Dude. There is so much good information out there on how to bleed your brakes, it would be so redundant to do it here. I have no idea what that guy was talking about. I've replaced master cylinders and guess what? They don't come with fluid in them. It's a pump, and when you are pumping fluid down the line, it will push the air out to the end. The truck is getting the air out on the down press of the brake, and closing it while it is still under pressure.

There are many links for this.
http://m.wikihow.com/Bleed-Car-Brakes
Basic with pics.

Just take your time, don't let the reservoir go empty, use new fluid, and don't over tighten the valves.

This is best as a 2 man job. Your other option is to buy a brake bleeder vac. About $50 at HF but I don't own one so I can't personally speak to their effectiveness.

 

I purchased a vacuum brake bleeder several years ago off the Snap On truck. They work great for stubborn systems and when used properly it can cut your time in half.

 

No doubt. And you don't have to direct your wife from under the car. "Press the brake, ok hold it there. Wait did you lift? Don't lift. Press again. Im sorry you are getting tired of this. Please do it again. I don't know how long this will take. Stop lifting!...

 

HA HA! Thats so funny you say that! Had my wife try that one time... Well... that was the last time.

 

Should I get dealer fluid or just DOT ?

Thanks

 

We've all been there

 

I ordered one of those $50-ish jobs from so Amazon, hand pump b/c I don't have access to air...but

THE STEREO IS IN! (not totally put back together) but that SOB hits hard! thanks *********.com. Their box fit like a glo behind the seat. It's only 600 watts total but I am very pleased.

Now just waiting on my OME 885s from wheelers which should here Monday so no excuses. I already have new lines from all-pro.

Thanks for all ya'll help again b/c there are gonna be a lot more to come when then wheels come off.

 

Got another stupid question -> http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/339854-cravenspeed-gauge-pod.html#post9021810 I could use some help with, should I just put it here?