My ebay projector headlights....

I would like to do a retro on my Tacoma. I didn't have my Accord long enough to do a retro on it even though I still have an extra set of headlights.

I think the LS430 projectors would look perfect in the Tacoma due to the size of the reflector housing. I don't know if I need an bi xenon setup since I rarely use the Halogen brights.

 

q45 projectors would rock in the taco

 

Honestly they aren't good at all for being how big they are. Output is quite poor really.

For anyone who wants more info on retros check out www.hidplanet.com they have a great forum with tons of info.

 

...here it is - not the best but its late n' i'm tired...


First pic comparing light beams ( both 6k hids ) on my garage door...



This pic is of the drivers side beam about 30ft away ( reg headlight w/ hid )



This is the passengers side beam w/ the ebay headlight and projector.



I believe the puff of light above the beam is the reflection from the halo ring...I could set it up to have the headlight on with its own halo ring as that might get rid of that but like i said i'm partial to not using the halo's

 

That's a nasty hot spot above the cut off that will be blinding to on coming traffic. I hope you're not done adjusting the right one because it looks a little high.

 

haha, wow. i can usually figure things out but here i have everything lying on the floor just looking at it all and wondering to myself, "where the fuck are the directions?". should have done a write up on this whole thing Raz...

 

allonblack - yea I adjusted it today and they both have the "puff" of light - I am almost certain its the reflection off the halo ring. No biggie i'll check it out tonight and hook up the ring to the headlight power. This way just the halo attached to the low will go on with the low light at the same time. this should kill out this "puff"..

 

K .... here is how you install these headlights....

1. Remove the original bulb and unclip the wiring...



2. Remove the rubber peice holding the hid bulb and the additonal wiring attached to it. ( you will use this later )



3. Insert the hid bulb and pull wiring through "sealer cone"


4. Going to the led strip wires - connect both black wires (ground) to one connector and both white wires (power) to another connector



5. Connect the above new connectors to their own line and their own form of connector...you can use raw wire but since im a neat freak i used male/female plug connectors....



6. Jumping to the tri socket (oem style) plug connect the other wire attached with the hid bulb to this tri socket using the male/female connects remembering black to black and red to blue...



7. This pic is before i used heatshrink tubing on the connectors but it gives you a whole picture of how it all needs to be wired ( you will use ALL of the wiring included in the kit )



8. If you want to use the led's w/ the parking lights like i did than you will have to make lines coming out of the parking light oem plug ( i obviously used male/female connectors ) you will connect these to the 2x lines coming out of the led strip you have made using the black to oem white w/ black stripe (ground) and the white to the oem green line ( power ) - i added in the extra line for the ground with an all black line so it doesn't show the oem white/black line as its zip tied in the loom...



- using this method you can tap your halo's to the turn signal, parking, etc. And because each halo and each portion of the led has its own wiring you can connect each one to a different function..ie large halo to turn on with low beam and halo around high to flash with blinker....lots of options.

 

Hey Razor,

Looks good but I have a couple questions:

1. What type of HID bulbs do these use? (D1S, D2S, etc?)

2. Do the lights have adjustment screws that are accessible w/o removing light housing from truck?

Hope you get rid of that hot spot above the cutoff.

Question for you retro guys:

What about starting with one of these kits (I think they sell a pure halogen version=cheaper) and popping in a TL HID bi-xenon projector. Then you'd have double high beams what with the full bi-xenon projector and the additional high beam halogen. The circuit should handle it as the bi-xenon solenoid can't be a large load.

 

Those look good. You wouldn't happen to want to sell your old black stockers do you?

 

Personally, I think the quality of light output is terrible. The issue is the projectors they use are of poor quality. They are equal to a fog light projector which is not the ideal for a headlight. If you like the look and want the best output then retro in a set of quality projectors.

If you look at Rossk35's sig you see what a quality retrofit gets you.

 

- update...the hotspot is from the h1 hid bulb being way too long for the projector. If you compare the size of a reg h1 to a hid the hid is like 3x its length. What i could do is use washers ( would generate too much heat outside of the housing though ) deal with it , or if i can find some kind of paint to paint the tips of the hid bulb that will quelch the light and be able to handle the heat.....i unno what would be able to handle it

 

Thanks for the write up. Got my lights in flawlessly, but I am having the same Hot Spot issue. Getting flashed by every car that passes me is getting annoying, and yes I did adjust the beams, actually lower than I would like because of the spots. I was wondering if you have tried the washers or have come up with any other fix? Thanks.

 

nope, I just adjusted the beams to now where its not that bad...We'll see if i can come up with anything. The one alternative is to dump the hids and use a silverstar or hid imitation type bulb that is normal size. Its a shame because the cut of line is really sharp, even sharper than on my caddys'. If they just pulled the project another 1/8" of an inch forward this would be a non existant problem. The only other alternative I could think of that might work is getting some type of ceramic coating put on the tips of the hid bulbs....Blocking the light from the tips should cure the issue the only problem with that is i dont know if vht's ceramic header coating of 2000 degrees will be able to withstand the constant heat of the hid bulb.

 

Thanks Raz. I have them adjusted pretty low to help with it too. Def hope ditching the lights doesnt become an option. I really like the cut off, output and color. Im going to try to just space the bulbs back a little and see how it fairs for a day or two. As for the ceramic coating, (I may have been misled) but I heard that HID's actually burn cooler than normal halogens so that seems to merit a try.

 

I'll probally give that a shot in the next day or so. I have the vht 2000 degree stuff in my garage so i'll probally hit the tip and leave the bulb hanging out and cycle the lights on and off for a bit to cure it . worse thing that might happen is it'll just burn off the coating

 

Alright Raz, I went ahead and tried out the "spacing" idea. here's the results.

The new lights

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Here is the Stock (left) vs New HID projector (right)... bad hot spot. and thats at like 4 feet!

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Reg HID (left) vs "spaced" bulb (right)... A LOT better.



And heres is how I went about it.
Took the Bulb out and shaved off the 2 little tits so the washers would sit flat.



Took two washers and ground them down to match the bulb base.



Made sure they matched up, and reinstalled.

 

can you post a pic of the front end, Im curious to how they look mounted, they look good on the first pic. Nice job.

 

not a very good shot, but it's raining out right now so it's all I got.

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