My front diff may have finally blown up -- need advice plz >>>

My truck has developed a new very severe grinding/growling vibration in the front end this past week. This new vibration is in addition to the normal vibration that I have been experiencing during the past year from my front diff needle bearing being bad (I have not replaced the bearing with the ECGS bushing yet).

This new vibration does not go away when I switch to 4hi. It does, however, disappear when I turn my steering wheel 45 degrees or more to the right. My initial thoughts were driver's side wheel bearing failure, or blown CV axle.

I took it in to the dealership today and they said that 90% of the vibes are coming from the front diff, and it sounds like there are loose bits rattling around inside. They said the wheel bearing is also bad. They recommended replacing the front diff, because they suspect that the gears are damaged inside and said that it could seize at any time, which could in turn destroy my transmission.

They quoted me $3800 to replace the diff, wheel bearing, and axle.

My options at this point are:

1) hope they are wrong about the diff being as bad as it is, and I could just replace the wheel bearing, CV, and replace the needle bearing with the ECGS bushing and hope that fixes everything (about $350 in parts) -- could do these repairs myself

or

2) find a used front diff at a junkyard, replace the needle bearing pre-emptively with the ECGS bushing, and replace the CV, and wheel bearing. This would cost a lot more, and I would have to pay a shop to do the repairs since a diff swap is involved.

The question is, what are the chances that option 1 would fix everything? There is the risk that I could spend the $350 on parts, do the repairs, and still have a front diff that is toast.

What would most do?

 

Change your front diff fluid...... and inspect the oil that comes out. If you find chunks or metal pieces, then your dealership might be right.

Have you jacked up the front of the truck yourself and inspected the front bearings? Spin the wheel, try to move the tire inward or outward...
Inspect your CV joints....

When was the last time you lubricated your U-joints? Any U-joints bad? In particular....the front U-joints...

The best thing you can do - is inspect and/or change the 'little things' first and see what happens. Progressively work your way up to the more difficult items. Sure - it's a lot of time in labor (for you) but the 'maintenance' aspect of taking care of things is very beneficial. It's a fact of life in terms of 'troubleshooting'. You just keep tackling things until you find it.

 

If the vibe does not go away when in 4WD and the sound is worse than what you had for a year, it sounds like the issue is more than just the needle bearing.

So, I would guess the problem is worse than option 1 would fix.

 

Just FYI, ECGS sells rebuilt diffs and you can have them shipped with bushing installed.

Like $900 or so...

 

I'm not following how a siezed front diff could destroy your trans.

I would drain diff fluid.

Inspect for play in wheel bearings.

Whats wrong with the cv axle?

If you find excessive shavings in the front diff call and talk to chase at ECGS about getting a whole new third. He will probably charge you a little more but it'll come in way under dealer cost and it's not that hard to swap in yourself with basic tools. I'm sure he'll work with you.

If you do have a bad front wheel bearing you can replace that yourself as well for decently cheap.

Also, wiggle the pinion on the front diff, if it moves you have a problem.

Could also put your whole truck on a lift (or jack stands) engage the 4wd, put it in gear and inspect the front diff -- VERY carefully.

 

Replace the bearing first sounds like the dealer want's to cover their ass.

 

Dealers always seem to want to replace parts instead of fix/rebuild.

For example the overhead temp/compass display that always goes out they want to replace the whole assembly for $900. When in fact 30 minutes of work and a quick solder job will fix it.

I've seen them want to replace whole instrument clusters when you can buy the broken stepper motor online for $5 and spend 45 minutes total replacing it.

Same goes for diffs and transfer cases. They are just high dollar parts replacers. I don't trust them at all.

I agree with the above^ Start replacing the bearings that you can, and worst case you can get ECGS to rebuild it.

FYI i had a wheel bearing go out so I took it to my buddy's shop, and he had to use his press to get it all out. It kind of sounded like a PITA.

 

There is no possible way the front diff failing could destroy your transmission. If you were in 4 wd and the diff happened to pile up, there is a chance your transfer case could suffer. I would be more concerned about the front wheels on your truck locking up because of it, causing loss of control.

That said, drop the oil out of the front diff into clean container and look at the oil and what is on the magnetic plug. Your symptoms sound more like a wheel bearing to me, jack things up yourself, check for play and roughness.

 

@BenWA, just wondering how you fixed this problem(s) as i seem to have recently acquired the initial needle bearing vibration/noise, going 30-45MPH, and now its kinda whenever it wants and pretty sure it goes away in 4wd

 

Drain the front diff and see what it looks like. The fluid will probably be dark, especially if it hasn’t been changed before. The first change is always terrible looking on these, in my experience.
Example: My brothers 2010 with 43k miles...

edit: just realized how old this thread is. Haha

 

@whatstcp , whats ECGS stand for?

 

East Coast Gear Supply. It's a company that sells the bushing you need

 

East coast gear supply

 

8 years later hey op did your diff blow up yet?

 

He hasn’t logged on for over 2 years.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...differential-bearing-vibration-thread.152173/

 

Does anybody know how i can figure out what diff i have, i have a 2008 4wd tacoma with rear diff lock(not sure if it works), 6-speed manual, access cab long bed(6.1ft), 4.0L v6, SR5

 

You’ve got a 8in rear diff the non ORs have the 8.4. Also you’re locker will only work in 4L.

 

Whats an OR? And thankyou...