My journey into audio tuning

I've installed a stereo system in my 2023 DCSB, and I'd like to go through the steps of tuning, specifically. No pics, yet. But for reference sake, here's my gear:

HU: pioneer avic W8600 NEX
Dash: Pioneer TS A709 82db
Front doors: Beyma 8G40 95 db
Subs: (2) Stereo Integrity BM-11 85db in a Mr Marv sealed box
DSP: Helix dsp.3s
Amps: JL xd1200, Mosconi as 100.4


This is a rough take, as I am still adjusting months later. I think it is also important to tune to whatever you listen to. Tuning flat to some yacht rock, will not yield the same results if you listen to drum and bass, dubstep, or edm, due to recording levels. I would imagine the same goes for sources, I listen to mostly flacs if I could find them, otherwise best quality mp3 files on a usb. I don't stream, or listen to the radio.

With the Helix DSP software, it allows you to adjust the output voltage/gain before even touching the amps. Having the amps set at their lowest gain, I started playing some music, and raising the gains on the DSP, via the IO tab, to taste.

I did use REW here and there for SPL matching, but I didn't totally rely on it. It's nice to use as a reference.

Once levels were rough established, next step was to determine crossover points. These are where I landed at, so YMMV
dash: HP 300hz 42db slope
doors: HP 80hz 18db, LP 300hz 12db slope
subs: LP 57-60hz 18db slope

Things are starting to sound ok. Re-check gain structure at dsp and at amps. amps still at lowest settings, I think I may have increased the dash speakers, and sub gains, but mids are still at lowest setting. Dash speakers have a really low efficiency, so they need more power to be driven. With the amp gains semi set, I can fine tune with the Helix DSP gain, very helpful later on in the process.

Time for time alignment. This one had me spinning my head for the longest time, as I have passengers in the car at times, and my thought was I want them to have an equal experience as me. I know that goes against the traditional thinking, but fuck it. I ended up using the center of the hood, after using different points of reference. That location eliminates the mis-alignment if you use the drivers seat, and move your head. In any location, the stage is still present, on the hood, and in all seating locations, gets the same experience.

Helix has a feature to where you can adjust the incoming signal to boost or cut, and still have the outgoing signal untouched, in terms of the eq adjustment. I used some low shelf filters for the sub to boost up the low end at 38hz & 55hz. A sealed box needs all the help it can get. The dash speakers got high shelf filters at 8k & 10khz. mids needed no adjustment.

re-check gains by using correlated pink noise, and music.

Stage is good, volume is good, but just not quite there yet. After weeks of driving like this, I decided to mess with the phase setting. Helix has a phase adjustment for each channel driven. I figured, another lever to adjust, why not? This was definitely the ticket. I was able to dial the stage as close to the center for the dash and door speakers, by adjusting each individual channel. I used different songs, and sit in different positions, to confirm my adjustments.

After all this, I think the dash was a bit hot, so I lowered DSP gains a bit, and now the height is centered at the floor of the dash, with the stage still intact. The speakers can't be localized, and I think I am as close to not making any adjustments further than I ever was.

My test was commute to work. At freeway speed, I am able to turn it up, and if it needed adjustment, I just suffered until I got home. I think it's good for a long while, but Im sure I'll make an adjustment again.

I tried to make this thread as general as I can, and make this as agnostic as I could from the Helix DSP as I could.

General comments
I don't think you need high end components as long as you can tune. Even high end components need some kind of tuning, might as well buy cheap.

I do go through several iterations of dash speakers: SI M3 carbon speakers, Pioneer TS-A879, and then landed on the

$60 TS-A709 , 2-Way Coaxial Car Audio Speakers, Full Range, Clear Sound Quality, Easy Installation and Enhanced Bass Response, Black and Gold Colored 2.75” Round Speakers

TS-A709 because they just fit in the dash. if you don't have to fabricate, drop in installation is best, even if the drivers are small.

I have yet to sound deaden the doors, and rear wall. When the weather lets up, it's on.

With my new found grasp of the time alignment, I think I'll get a 6 channel amp, and install rear door speakers, just to complete the package.

Edit:
I wanted to add, when making adjustments to eq, phase, even crossover, it's a good idea to re-check the gain. early in the process, in between adjustment sessions, I was driving around with a headache, and didn't realize the dash speakers were a little hot(I think either gain, or eq, or tuning with a song I normally dont listen and then listening to my music). Always good to sanity check your adjustments, live.

 

Cool read...
DSP's can be frustrating as theres 1000's of adjustments, im glad I dont have a dedicated laptop / the ability to fuck it up myself....
How are you liking the SI bm-11's???
I put a 12 tw3 in my tacoma but have another built im working on for my son...
single cab ranger, was considering a single bm-11, or 2 dd audio sl 610's.....
cant decide to save my life....

 

the 2 BM11s are good. I think tuning opened them up a bit, especially on the lower end. I thought I wanted more, initially, but DSP tuning is the ticket to fill in what is missing.

 

Cant imagine wanting more with 2 12's in a taco...
I have 1 12 with an ARC Nighthawk powering just it 800watts...
Yes, 2 would be nice I guess,
But wanting more after that....
Cant imagine!

 

I'm not cranking the sounds too loud, but I think it makes a difference having two subs.

I'm a little older as well, so I have to preserve what hearing I have left.

 

im 52 going on 65....

 

Rico it was really cool meeting-up today & being able to listen to our systems....