My most expensive ride home...

Yah. Hopefully it will be a good truck for a while. Grease up the chassis and driveshaft. Check the universals. With that black oil I bet you need some grease

 

Word thanks to everyone who posted I appreciate the feedback and input. I have taken all of them into consideration.
I haven't done much work on vehicles. I mean I can check and change my oil and filter, change tires and that's about it. But I have read that these trucks are fairly easy to work on so I'm going to start off by cleaning the throttle body. It looks pretty straight forward and It's a start to try and diagnose a hesitation during acceleration. I would have already started but I only have brake clean I'm waiting until I can get my hands on correct cleaner before I do anything with the throttle body. My vss went out on me and popped CEL on my way to get my emissions test passed. All other codes were completed before that happened. But I worry when I do get a vss and go to change it that the transmission fluid that I will lose during the time I am switching the little gear from the old vss to the new one will be detrimental to my transmission. I was told that if you know the last time it was changed and/or have a maintenence schedule for the fluid then that is fine but if you don't know the last time it was changed and have high mileage the best thing to do is not to change or flush the fluid. Anyone have anything to comment about that. I suppose I could catch the old fluid in a clean container and then dump it back in? Any thoughts.

 

I had a severe hesitation problem when I first got my 2.7. First weekend I had it I cleaned the MAF and TB and changed plugs and air filter. One or more of those things corrected the problem but I don’t know which combination of things I did was the actual fix. I suspect it was the MAF since it looked a little fuzzy before I cleaned it but the plugs were original with 92K on them.

 

Isn't the maf right around where the throttle body is? What did you use to clean it?

 

So I found a picture of my 5 lug right before I sold it. My profile picture is the same truck but that's what it looked like when I bought about a year prior of when I took this picture.

 

MAF circled in blue. I used MAF cleaner that’s available in any automotive store. Unscrew the 2 Phillips screws, disconnect the wires, pull it out of the air duct. Look inside the sensor and you’ll see something that looks like a little resistor on a fine wire. Don’t touch it but that’s what you want to spray with MAF cleaner. Let it dry completely before reinstalling.

 

You are asking some questions that you will get different answers to OP. There is not complete mechanical consensus. Keep reading and keep thinking and keep wrenching/checking.

Personally I would say, if you're losing engine oil then there will be less oil on the dipstick in time, and do a drain and fill on your trans (and check, loosen the trans fill plug before the drain plug), watch youtube and read the comments on videos. I'm not familiar with tacomas btw.

 

Well I haven't gotten the maf cleaner but I did clean the throttle body with very very very little brake cleaner. From looking at the picture above or below on this post I think it's fair to say it hadn't been cleaned for quite sometime. Worries me really on what the rest of the inside looks like. I still need to post some more pics of the frame I'll get my phone charged a bit and do that. Once again thanks everyone.

 

I just took a few pics of the underside with what Lil juice I have left.

 

Personally I think people fuck with MAFs too much. I would leave it unless you have reason. And yes I am in favor of Toyota's air filter, unless you're at risk of ingesting fistfuls of silt and then you'd want dry flow style to maintain filter integrity

 

Wow. I don't think anyone thought it would look that nice underneath. That's good news. There may be some rust issues in front of the rear leaf springs. Hit those areas with a hammer to see if there are any actual rot issues. I would certainly look at the spark plugs to see how old they look. Worth replacing if worn given your issues and how cheap plugs are. The MAF is definitely worth looking at as well. It is cheap, quick and easy to clean. Also, if you're in the midwest you should look into fluid filming the frame and underbody to keep it decent.

 

Your truck doesn't look that bad under there.

 

I think your brake hose is leaking

 

Good eye.

 

That's the right side for the brake line the bracket was just bent down vertical for it for some reason

 

Dang, you're quick haha. I realized that shortly after posting and edited the post.

 

I seriously doubt that engine has 515 on it.....
if so it would show with oil consumption and lower compression...

its probably been replaced at least once.....

3rz/5vz replacements have been big business over the last decade....

 

Seems likely the OE brake line was a bit short when the lift was added. Couple more from the “what’s wrong with this picture” exercise:

It appears there’s a bolt missing from the caliper


And swaybar endlink bushing is shot


Gap between the steering rack bushing and the rack



Whoever did the alignment on this should be punched in the throat. Wheels are straight and look at the bellows, drivers side is compressed and passenger side is extended.

And some minor stuff like wheel well skirts and skid plates are missing.

 

That's probably what's clunking around when I hit bumps. And the compression thats favored to one side how serious is that and is that something I could possibly do or special tools needed? Thank you for real I appreciate it

 

It's had a engine and tranny replacement with ones that has 160000 miles on them
Supposedly