My plans changed.....

So, my whole plan with my Tacoma is to make it as new as possible again. I am going to flush the power steering system, brake system and rear end. The cooling system is new and the transmission was serviced a few years ago. Along with the suspension kit Im thinking of or something like it, https://yotamafia.com/product/ome-o...GI6OboPH21FXpYtWA2B4YpKeZvQUjxfPKMQ6uzKM2zZzz, I am going to replace all the ball joints, bushings, wheel bearings and every other part on the suspension. I daily drive a 2018 F150 4X4 5.0 right now, while I like it, I really dont trust it. I knew when I bought it that the transmissions on them can be suspect, among other things. I do enjoy the room and the power, but Ive always wanted to "build" the Tacoma.

Do you guys think that kit would be good for me. The Tacoma will be my daily with some weekend offroading. Any other thoughts if I go this route?

Also, is that kit adjustable for ride height? It says 1.5-3 inch. Curious about that.

 

There are thousands of Tacoma's getting around on OME shocks and springs. Just as there are thousands of trucks getting around on 4600s, 5100s, Icons, Kings, etc... As long as you aren't throwing Monroe crap at it for suspension, or after market ball joints you'll be fine.

It says 1.5 - 3" because the different spring options provide those different amounts of lift. The shock is the same between them. You get the shock, and then you either get 880, 881, etc.. springs. The springs determine how much lift you get.

I still suggest, that if you have the resources, to get something nicer for a daily. Someone mentioned the fox 2.0 series, and that's not a bad trade off between the higher priced Icons, Kings, etc... and the OME/Bilstein options.

You did title this thread "BEST", and best is going to be the 2.0" or 2.5" coilovers all day long.

 

Thank you @Andy01DblCabTacoma. I will do some research on the Fox 2.0 series as well. All of the other parts that will be installed are going to be OEM.

Your right about the springs, Im an idiot. I read that already. Jeez

 

Touche, yes I did.

 

I think Ive settled on this kit. https://yotamafia.com/product/ome-o...GI6OboPH21FXpYtWA2B4YpKeZvQUjxfPKMQ6uzKM2zZzz Are aftermarket upper control arms and bushings a MUST with this kit for driveability, or will new OEM control arms with new upper ball joints be ok? @oldgreg or anyone else? Seems like you didnt HAVE to go with the Total Chaos UCA's, but did for alignment reasons?

I asked earlier what the BEST lift kit would be, but have done my research and think that this kit will suit me just fine. If i regret it, Ill cross that bridge later. My whole plan is to replace EVERYTHING under the truck suspension wise with all OEM other than what the kit provides and just want to make sure I can run stock UCA's and stock upper ball joints without issues and that looks like its ok to do that. @Andy01DblCabTacoma, the Foxes are a little more than I would like to spend, but I appreciate your feedback.

Is there anything else I should consider here before I pull the trigger?

 

You don't need to get new upper control arms. I've ran the stock upper control arms and ball joints with +2" of lift for 20 years and was able to get it aligned to stock spec. I did switch to an SPC upper when I did my last round of suspension work, but it was only because it was easier to do the WhiteLine lower control arm bushings, and get a new upper arm, rather than getting an ES kit with both upper and lower bushings, and then tossing the lowers.

TL;DR - Uppers are only necessary to replace with a lift if you alignment problems.

As previously mentioned by others, you need a longer rear brake line, and a brake proportioning valve relocation plate.

 

Awesome, thank you @Andy01DblCabTacoma. Yes, noted on the brake line and plate. I cant wait to get this going, waited a long time.

 

Trying to decide between the 51100 Icon AAL or the EL122R left pack. I wont have any medium to heavy loads other than dump and Home Depot runs. Im thinking the AAL's would suit me just fine, but Ive went back and forth on this.

I want a level truck, not one that has a lot of rake. The more I research this the more my head spins.

Im really liking @mootiger49's set up.

 

Shocks do not provide any lift, they just dampen motion.

If you're lifting the front the truck 2", you need to lift the rear 2-2.5", with either complete new spring packs, inserting a single or three leaf Add-A-Leaf, lift shackles, or a combination (1.5" AAL + 1" shackle). That is in addition to the shocks.

There are some exceptions to this, but those are relatively specialty shocks, which the 5100s are certainly not...

 

So I think OP wants to lift the front to level it with the rear (which for the record I'm not a fan of on pickup trucks). But if thats the case he could skip the rear leafs. But then again 2" lift up front might end up causing a squatted stance depending on how tired the existing leafs are

 

I don’t mind if the front sits a little lower than the rear. I just don’t want the front to sit a ton lower than the rear if I go with the Dakar leaf packs in the back. A little rake is ok. And I definitely don’t want the front to sit higher than the back.

That’s why I’m torn between the Dakar leaf packs or the AAL’s

 

I honestly think the hardest thing you have going for you, is "+ 2-2.5 inches"... Those numbers are generally relative to the stock height of the truck. At 24-25 years old, the truck is not sitting at stock height.

You could put a +1.5" AAL lift on your truck measure 1.5" +++ difference from the current stance. This measurement could also settle a considerable amount in the course of a few months.

Do your front lift. Take before and after measurements. Generally these are center hub to fender after a spin around the block, but as long as you keep it relative, it doesn't matter if it's the ground to fender (so long as you're not also changing other variables). Get a feel for what you actually changed.. then address the rear end. After doing roughly something similar, but for entirely different reasons, I needed up with J59 Deavers (advertised as +1.5" lift) + a custom made .5" shackle to get the bed of the truck to sit a little higher than the front. I don't think that means I have a 2" lift. I think the front is around 2", and the rear is more like 2.5"... but because I've changed suspension, and tires size over the almost 25 years of owning this truck, I don't have a good comparison number.. and unless time travel is legit, it's not a question worth worrying about...

There isn't an easy one size fits all answer to it... gotta start and figure out where you are, and where you wanna be.

 

It's great to have expensive suspension - but if you don't understand vehicle weight to spring rate/shock valving you're not going to be happy.

Take my truck for example - 6112's + ICON uca, Deaver J59s. 6112's come with a 600lb coil for our trucks. For my super light regular cab 2.7, way too stiff as factory coils are rated ~ 450-500. I've since added a super heavy 1/4" skid (70lbs) and will add a bumper soon. Even just 70lbs made the front end feel so much better with the above facts.

Same goes for the rear - make sure you're matching leaf spring rates with weight you'll have (or not have) over the axle.

That's why so many people do a lift and it's 50/50 on the "outcome" if they like the ride or not. Different weight trucks + not even knowing spring rates of different manufactures (let alone OEM) = so many variables = so many different outcomes.

Some people like a stiff street ride feel, while others (like myself), prefer to absorb the road and float as much as possible - removed my sway bar since leafs/coils are plenty stiff to keep me stable.

The whole "2.0 vs 2.5" diameter shocks is moot unless you're bombing through the desert at high speeds. Wouldn't get caught up on that.

 

Lineman and Andy are both very correct.
The setup I needed on was the 4th configuration that worked for me.
Stock
4600
4600 with spacer
5100 with ome spring
you may have to play with it.
But that’s always a good thing!

 

CHeck out Adventure Taco , he does a great write up on lifting his 1st Gen, lots of good info
https://adventuretaco.com/the-boss-lift-prepping-for-armor/
think he’s running ADS shocks now

 

Thanks guys. My truck is getting all new OEM suspension. I’m replacing everything, and I mean everything. I’ve owned this truck for 23 years and put 220k on it, mostly just daily driven miles. So the height of the truck will be back at stock.
I know a lot of people have used the old man emu 2 inch lift and have been happy with it, whether they used the AAL’s or the leaf packs. I’ve looked at tons of wrote ups and pictures with trucks with that set up. I just want to do this once and be happy with it.

I’m been in the collision business for 25 years and understand vehicles and suspension well. I know every truck is different and using the same kit on one May not be like the other.

 

I appreciate all of you for the feedback and patience answering my questions. After shaking down the truck from top to bottom, there were some surprises that came up that ended up eating into my lift budget. So, I am replacing all these parts below. List is in no particular order....

Valve cover gaskets, (there's a kit from a Toyota dealer on Ebay that sells every damn seal you'll need including spark plugs and wires)
All 4 wheel bearings and seals
Bilstein 4600 assembled coil over struts and shocks
Rear leaf springs.
Upper control arms
Lower control arms
Upper ball joints
Lower ball joints
Steering rack
Inner tie rod ends
Outer tie rod ends
Stabilizer links
CV Axels
Power steering pump
Carrier bearing in the rear diff
31 or 32 inch tires---(advice on 32's would be helpful to me on those who ran them on stock suspension....)
Might be a couple more items I forgot about, but I don't think so.

All of the parts listed above are OEM from my local dealer here except the leaf springs, steering rack and CV Axels. The steering rack and CV Axels are not available from Toyota anymore, not even remanufactured.

The things that ate into the lift budget were the steering rack, rear springs and the carrier bearing needing replacement. I could have swung the lift possibly, but it wasnt leaving me much left over for wheel reconditioning, new tint, the tires I want and overages that may come up. I think Ill be happy with replacing all this and starting fresh again. Im going to get all this done and see how it sits, then maybe, put a 1 inch leveling kit in the front if it needs it. I'm sure Ill get a little more height than where it sits now just with all new suspension. I am really looking forward to having my Tacoma back on the road and making it ride and handle the way it should.

Again, advice on running 32's on the stock 15 inch wheels would be great.

Thanks again guys...

By the way, this isnt cheap, even with getting pretty good parts discounts. Not that I figured it would be...

 

Blake
I have a set of 4600 with coils I’m about to put up for sale
Maybe 500 miles on them
I’ll sell them to you for 200$
bought them brand new in 24'

 

Thanks again @mootiger49.

 

My advice for tires and wheels for your setup would be to go to a 16" wheel (widely available stock wheels on FB Marketplace, don't pay over $200 for a set) and 235/85r16 tires. Taller, skinny, widely available in all sorts of tires and price ranges. Kenda makes 33x9.50R15 if you were willing to go a little taller, that would be a great tire on a 15" wheel.