My Solution for OBD Reprogramming Theft

How about putting a dummy OBD wired up to a capacitor? 2100V?

 

Now I’m going to start paying attention to those dual battery threads…

 

So if anyone cares this is all buttoned up and works fine. Initially I was using a water proof connector which wasn’t working well so I swapped it for a ten pin regular one. All good.

Just flashed a TSB and a tune without issues.

Couple things to note if anyone is as dumb as I am and tries this.

1. there are two grounds with the same wire color (white with black stripe). One is a chassis ground the other is signal ground. If you put your positive multimeter lead on power and then to the chassis ground it’ll read normal positive voltage. If you do signal it won’t.

2. There are also two signal wires that are conveniently the same color (both white). When I was doing pin to pin I made sure to get everything straight. But when I redid it I didn’t. I ended up swapping these two. No damage it just wouldn’t read the ECU. Swapped them and no issues at all. Just make sure whatever you do the power and ground are right pins.

 

I say put in a splitter and cut some wires in the dummy end and put the dummy in the factory port location

 

So please explain how I messed up my electrical system? While you are at it also explain how I created a rats nest by replacing one connector with another? If you looked you would have no idea which connector I swapped other than I missing an OBD port.

And warranty work? I’d get laughed out of the dealer as soon as I pulled up. I’m long past warranty work my friend.

Also my truck won’t ever be available for you to buy so you don’t have to worry about that.

 

Or move the factory port and put an obd extension in its place. That way when you need it you connect the (relocated) original to the extension and everything works as it is and you didn't throw away your warranty, when you don't need it unplug the extension and now the port is "dead"

In this case the cure seems worse than the symptoms. The canbus network is a tricky finicky thing, it's not voltage levels and yes or no power. This is worse than what I would be afraid thieves would do to the truck. This is like filling your home computer with spray foam to keep dust out.

 

Please explain how it works without issue then? All I did is replace one connector with another. I’d understand your point if I was extending wires and using butt connectors or something. Mine is no different than factory. Just used a different connector.

 

You cut and rewired a port that is connected to the canbus messaging system of your vehicle. I doubt there was anything in then original connector, but that isn't proof. Some of those wires need resistor ends otherwise a floating end messes up the communications on the network.even just breaking the wiring casing can cause corrosion which can affect comms

Plus dang near everything is reported as a comms message now a days. Even just to plug in it's a bunch of messing around. Although just a few pins standard for one the rest of those ponds can be handling proprietary Toyota messaging steuctures. Each pin is a comma pathway to various networks on the truck, or similar networks handling different speeds of comms.

With today's communications networks on these trucks any breaks in the wiring is like your spouse getting an STD. The doc can SAY the little pill got rid of it, but is it REALLY fixed?

 

I guess you assume I didn’t check things like that? There are no resistors in the connector. It’s a wire and a connector. Nothing more. I’d suggest you take a look a the connector and wires before telling me I did something wrong. You act like I did this with a rock and a hammer. This is zero difference between my connector and the factory one other than shape. No extra exposed wiring, nothing. I am well aware what this connection does and how the communication works.

Don’t use cheap parts and use the correct tools and this modification is fine. None of your points apply to what I did. If it’s something you don’t feel comfortable with, then don’t do it. Simple as that. For me I know it works just as well as the factory piece. Proven my measuring resistance on my connector and the factory one along with the fact I can flash the ECU without issue.

Further more if nothing is connected to the OBD port I could just cut it off and the truck will work fine. It’s only used when you are interfacing with it.

 

I literally said "I doubt there was anything in the original connector" .

Most everyone who modified their vehicle says to themselves why it's fine.

Network based architectures are very picky to changes in the architecture. I know I wouldn't touch that truck, ever, if it was for sale.

I still say that your fix is more likely to cause issue than the likelihood of the truck being stolen by that method

 

Kudos to the OP for coming up with a solution that works for him.

Well, when I lived in AZ and did a lot of canyoneering in remote Northern parts of the state I had a theft concern.
I ended up having a “kill switch” hidden way up under the dash. It only killed the ignition not the whole electrical system. The Dodge Cummins had a lot of stuff running in the background so specifically targeting just the ignition was the best choice. I had dealer install it on a brand new Megacab 4X4. Truck was always there when I returned from multi day trips.

we all hate thieves and love innovation. That capacitor idea has some merit

 

Post a pic of your truck and a link to your build thread so folks understand that it’s not your everyday 3rd gen.

 

I’m starting to think you don’t actually understand what I did. There was no soldering or shrink wrapping. However if there was I am J-STD certified (not that’s that’s sole advanced cert but I know to connect wires) and have been for the last 8-9 years so I am well aware how to do that.

All I did was cut off a connector, terminate the wires, pop on different connector. Exactly like factory. I suggest you take a look at your connector/wiring before telling me I did something wrong.

Next you clearly do care since you are on what your third comment telling how poor of a job did.

I also didn’t say this was the end all solution or it was better or worse than anything else. Just sharing what I did. Again, you misunderstood the point of the post.

 

Wait so these thieves are 1. breaking into these trucks, 2. have equipment to plug into the OBD port that can - without the ability to turn ignition turning on - create a copy of the keys signal, 3 then use the spoofed key to start the truck?

 

These “discussions” are entertaining to say the least.

 

Yeah I have no idea. It’s like some people think I cut off the connector, dipped the wires in salt water or some other corrosive liquid, then twisted them together and called it a day. When I’m reality it’s no different than stock other than visually.

I’ll have to check out that ravelco thing.